So I have a oil leak between the compressor and turbine housings on my turbo it seems, called saint Joe diesel and they want 150 for the rebuild kit and 100 for balance, I can rebuild the thing myself my professor in my automotive program has rebuilt turbos on gas engines before if I need help, however he and I were unsure if it needed to be rebalanced after rebuild? The cost of the balance isn't an issue its the 4 hour round trip to drop it off and another 4 hours trip to pick it up that's getting me. The engine is currently stock to my knowledge except for the ts 6 position, I have seen 30+ psi boost out of it unloaded (no trailer) at about 1100 egt I plan on doing minor engine work at some point but nothing overly crazy maybe 400 HP

 

So I just talked to Taylor diesel in Columbia and he said that leak is a common problem and all I have to do is tighten up 4 bolts inside the housing that hold the turbine and compressor together and it should be fine, I've never messed with the internals of a turbo idk if I should just do a full rebuild or try and locate the bolts he's talking about

 

Well all i can say is I probably would not let Taylor touch my **** after that advice.

Your turbo needs to be rebuilt if there is excessive in/out or sided to side play. This is solely due to worn journal bearings. A rebuild kit from Riffraff diesel is around a 100$. This includes everything needed.

Now the fact that you have an oil leak is probably due to leaking orings on the pedestal, or a leaking EBPV valve. I have deleted that stupid thing on all our trucks. Pedestal orings cost $6 dollars from RiffRaff Diesel. 95% of the time they are the culprit. So for 6$ and an afternoon that may be your fix. Oil will leak down the valley out the back side of the motor and down on the pan. I don't know how many times I have have replaced orings on the pedestal, that solved a thought "rear main or pan leak" for customers.

Regarding rebuilding a turbo. It easy as hell. no need to balance a factory turbo either. I have done 13 stock turbos over the past couple years and to be honest its very easy. The hardest part is removing heat seized bolts. The first timer will get pissed off breaking some of them loose. Search "Turbo removal" and there are a ton of threads on here.

If it were me and you are pulling a turbo to replace orings, and it has fairly hi miles. I would rebuild it for peace of mind. It will take 20% of the time to rebuild it vs time spent pulling it for a first timer. You will have another 100-200k out if it when you are done.

Links to rebuild and orings.

rebuild :Garrett TP38 Journal Bearing Rebuild Kit 94.5-97 - Riffraff Diesel Performance

orings: Turbo / Pedestal O-rings - Riffraff Diesel Performance

and if you want to save that balancing money and toss in a billet wheel to pick up a bit of performance... here you go...

Riffraff Diesel Billet Compressor Wheel 94-03 - Riffraff Diesel Performance


Crazy how much the price has came down on the stock wheel. I paid over $100 from him two years back for the fuggn thing...

 

Do I still need the pedestal orings if I get the rebuild kit?

 

The kit should come with them. I always keep an extra set in the tool box though...

 

I was also debating eliminating that EBPV if i could get away with it, i see the high flow outlet and the deleted pedestal on RiffRaffs site. are those the only two things i need to eliminate the valve?

 

Also check the CCV
If its clogged it can force oil past the turbo seal

 

I would only suggest if you live in areas that are super cold, 0 and below it does help the truck warm up quicker. I however do and still deleted it.

If I delete the pedestal I typically will just order a deleted pedestal vs cutting, welding, plugging the old one. That is the cheaper way to go, but a pre cast deleted pedestal is easier if that is what you are looking for vs TIG welding alum and modding the stocker. Its not hard but time consuming to do properly, and I don't TIG weld for free, machine wasn't cheap :-)

Regarding the outlet, there is absolutely no reason to buy a new one. Grind off the two rivets holding the butterfly plate onto the internal shaft, punch out the shaft, and plug the holes and you are done. Takes a matter of minutes to do yourself once you have the turbo out.

 

Alright I'll probably leave it then, my leak appears to be at the joint between the compressor and turbine housings.

I ordered the vibrant performance bellows last night along with diamond eye SS downpipe I haven't placed My riffraff order yet I'm seriously thinking about getting that compressor wheel...