I don't like to get long winded on here but this may be the one.
My floor in my 55 is oak and was stained and cleared with House of Kolor UC35 clear. The problem was that the cleared bubbled and when I sanded the bubbles out to buff I guess I got a little thin on the edges. The wood started to turn grey where I guess moisture got in. I have stripped the wood with a DA sander and want to refinish it better.
There may be 2 problems,, after sanding what looks like down to wood, I can see featheredge marks in spots. Did the clear soak into the wood in spots??
And I can't find anything better than automotive clear to give me the depth and UV protection I want. What have you guys been doing on your wood???
I did have a friend tell me about conversion varnish. Is this a possibility???
Thanks for your patients and help!

 

Oak is VERY porous and will suck up the UC35 especially in the soft veins of the wood grain. If the color of the stain is still good then I would go ahead and spray another 3-4 coats of the UC35 on it and call it a day. If you are really hellbent on a flat glassy surface then block sand the last coat and give it a flow coat with the UC35.

 

The color of the stain is sanded off now. I had to sand that far to remove the greying areas. After I seen the feathered spot on the board I rubbed some stain over it to see if it would still show. It left an area that looks like a sticker had been on it. I thought about having the wood planed or belt sanded but don't want to loose too muck material.

 

I used marine spar varnish on mine. I figure the wood boat folks know what they are doing. Hasn't been that long do I can't say as to how long it will last. But considering the beauty of these old wooden boats.....

 

Wayne, I did look at that but was told it would be too "soft" if you will. It doesn't get hard enough for a floor. While I don't plan to hold square dances back there. There will be coolers, chairs, and things on it. Has this been a problem for you?

 

no matter what you do you are not going to get the flat glass like finish with oak. oak is an open grain wood and will always show those grains. if you desire that bowling alley shine and flatness go to a closed grain wood such as maple or beach. then you will get that finish

take it from an old carpenter
qman

 

I just went through the bed wood process and with the help of several form members i ended up with a nice looking oak bed. First I read just about every bed wood post on the form and found that everyone uses different products to finish the wood, everything from paint to varnish to clear coats to oil. I chose Epifanes high gloss Spar Varnish. I did this because of the temperature extemes that we have here in AZ and an Automotive type clear does not expand and contract with the wood and Spar Varnish does and like was stated before boat builders have been using it for years. My only real complaint with varnish is that it takes about 10 coats to get it right and a minimum or 24 hours between coats so your looking at two weeks to get the job done.

 

Alphatic Urethane . Almost bullet proof .Shown is 8 coats + 2 coats of sealer. Total bolck sanding time = 16hrs. Stay on the block !!

Lorkote is equally as durable . A local millwork co. uses it on all exterior wood windows . doors & etc. No problems in over 10 yrs. The Fla. heat , humidity , rain , sun is brutalon all exterior products. Especially doors that face west with no protection .

 

I haul nothing in the back of mine.....except people in parades. Then I put a layer of cardboard down and require shoe removal...lol. Like Chuck said, the marine stuff is not a quick process. I'm happy with the results.

 

OK, if I can pick my chin up off the floor now!! Great looking beds. This is giving me another route to look at. Looks to be the best so far. Now if I can get my wood to act right.

 

Denny, what brand Alphatic Urethane did you use? Was it a three part mix? I guess you sanded your wood then stained and or sealed it with 2 coats, sanded that and then 8 coats of clear? What did you sand it with after it cured and I guess you had to buff with????
Sorry for so many questions but your bed is exactly what I want.
There are pics in my gallery of my bed when I first built it and I was OK with it until it started turning.

 

everyboby tries and tries to START with the oak bed and then goes to the HOKUS POKUS ways of making it last forever with out changing. NOT GUNNA HAPPEN! it will always change, the cracks (grain) fill up with dirt and oil and old leaves and spilled ice cream. then u can't get it out of those ravines----blacker and darker it gets till u are unhappy with the finish and all that extra work u did. why not start with a better choice of wood that will last many more years with color and shade unchanged. maybe u guys like pain and frustration. oh! that's right. u guys are FTE guys. knuckle heads of the 3rd kind. what am I saying....I'm one of u guys......NEVER MIND

 

Here's a few non-oak bed floors...

 

hey Charlie....

WOW!!!g my point EXACTLY! in my eye that is even nicer than oak before it goes bad. thanks for posting those pix they are super. i'll go back several times just to look at them again and again
qman

 

There is a reason that there are not many Woodies left. As qmanconfused said Oak is an open grain wood and no matter how much finish you have on, it will eventually move. All wood will sooner or later.
When you do finish it, make sure that you do the underneath too. If it is unfinished on the bottom then it will absorb moisture quickly below and slowly on top causing it to move much faster/sooner. Just remember that it will be something that you have to take care of and maintain with scuff sanding and new coats.