I just put bear claws with the original handles in my F1 this weekend. The way I did it took a bit of thinking and fabrication but only cost me about $15 after the cost of the latches.
I cut down the original latch and switched them from side to side. This takes the guess work out of lining the handle up and makes connecting to the bear claw much easier. The lock has to be lined up seperately but it 's not too hard to do. Here's the pieces I used to add the lever to activate the latch and how they were assembled.
The latch plate fits right behind the window channel. The lock for the passenger side was welded to the top of the bear claw and the internal c shaped part was cut down and welded to the lock piece on the bear claw.
I had an old passenger door that I cut up to pre-fit everything, the latch point for the bear claw ended up just below the dovetail.
I used a cable to attach to the inside door handle. The passenger lock can only be operated with the key and the drivers will have to have an inside lever to operate it but that's only a minor inconvenience for having smooth operating latches. Still have a tiny bit of adjusting to do and need to get the lock cylinder back in, but they work like a charm so far.
I used the small latches from Rocky Hinge and adapted to the stock hardware also, but my method was different. That said, I used bar stock for the links, attached with bolts, nylock nuts and nylon washers between the pieces for smooth operation. It works, but I can hear some rattling inside the door. You can only tighten the bolts so much before the joint binds. My long term solution is to change all the links over to rod ends. I'll swap the bar stock for threaded rod with rod ends. You can tighten the attachment bolts without fear of binding. Speedway carries a great selection of rod ends, and they're really not the expensive.
Measure with a micrometer, mark with a crayon, cut with an axe.
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