1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

93 Ranger Splash Tensioner

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Old 01-25-2014, 11:57 AM
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93 Ranger Splash Tensioner

I have a problem with the serpentine belt tensioner, on a 1993 Splash; 4cyl motor. The tensioner spring is frozen/stuck, so it is set to where it is. Tried to 'exercise' to free it up,,,,, that did not work, and sorta' rounded out the 3/8 square hole doing that. So,,, ordered an new tensioner assembly. I felt around the tensioner mount at bottom,, do not feel a bolt head,, so it must be flat head allen or torx bolt,,, correct ???? I am guessing this will be a real sweatheart to change, given the age of truck and natural corrosion,,, any help or hints will greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 01-26-2014, 06:28 AM
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Yes, if memory serves it's just the torx bit on the front. Maybe I just got lucky with my '94 but it didn't come off hard at all. It might be a good time to replace/check the belt and idler pulley too. You will enjoy how quiet that new tensioner makes your belt.
 
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Old 01-26-2014, 09:42 PM
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thanks for the tip,,, the tensioner assembly I got comes with a new idler pulley,,,
 
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Old 01-27-2014, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by PtownBubba88
thanks for the tip,,, the tensioner assembly I got comes with a new idler pulley,,,
The tensioner has a pulley but depending on your engine there may be 1 or 2 other 'idler' pulleys and it's a good time to check them all. I hope the repair goes well. Let us know if anything else comes up.
 
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Old 01-27-2014, 08:21 AM
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On my truck I ended up removing the grill, radiator, and fan off to get a good shot at the bolt (manual trans no a/c).

Some of the bolt threads stick through the back of the mount, try to get some type of lube in there.

I ended up having to drill the head off the bolt. Not fun at all.

Change your idler pulley while your in there. It's easy.
 
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Old 01-27-2014, 04:34 PM
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It is the 2.3 4 cyl,,,, no a/c,,,, stick shift,,, 2 wd,,, 93 Splash

This tensioner had sorta' stuck a while a go,,,, I sprayed some poheekum on it ,, then exercised it, I had it freed up,,,,,,,,,, but it got stiff again,, sprayed more stuff on it to try to free it again,, then thought ,,jeepers just get a new tensioner,,, I think I read it may be a 50torx that holds it on,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, will spray everything I have in the shop on that bolt,, maybe it will come out ok,,,,,,,,,,,, 'gulp',,,,,,,,,,,

Thanks for all the tips,,,
 
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Old 01-28-2014, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by PtownBubba88
It is the 2.3 4 cyl,,,, no a/c,,,, stick shift,,, 2 wd,,, 93 Splash

This tensioner had sorta' stuck a while a go,,,, I sprayed some poheekum on it ,, then exercised it, I had it freed up,,,,,,,,,, but it got stiff again,, sprayed more stuff on it to try to free it again,, then thought ,,jeepers just get a new tensioner,,, I think I read it may be a 50torx that holds it on,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, will spray everything I have in the shop on that bolt,, maybe it will come out ok,,,,,,,,,,,, 'gulp',,,,,,,,,,,

Thanks for all the tips,,,
You're right a new tensioner is cheap enough there's no sense trying to nurse an old one. And yes, T50 torx. While removing other components isn't completely necessary, as Grumpy said your job will be significantly easier if you first remove the fan shroud (2 8mm bolts that will need some penetrating oil) and fan (4 10mm bolts). Then a breaker bar with the torx bit should take the tensioner right off. I've got the identical truck just 1 year newer and love how simple and easy to fix everything has been over the past 12 years. The 2.3L allows plenty of space to work and the 'no options' package means there's less to break. Good luck.
 
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:05 AM
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Thanks J-S,,, this is my son's ole' bomber go-to-work truck, not real pretty but runs decent,,,, we put a new heater blower in it last Saturday, and when he started it to back out of garage,,, I heard the belt squeal a lil',, so knew right away that tensioner had mis-behaved again,,,, now he says the thermostat must be bad,,, trk will not get very warm,,, even with a cover over radiator,, it has been very $%&*@# cold this Jan, but still. So,,,,,,,again simple job,, not a lot of $$$,,,,,,but as is always the deal with older stuff,,,,, removing old bolts without breaking anything,,,, ugh,,,,,,,,,,,,,, more poheekum to soak 'em with is needed again ,,,, thanks guys,,,,

On the farm as a kid,,, our favorite poheekum was: Liquid Wrench
Now there is this stuff called: Freeze Off
WD-40 I always felt was more of a lube that penetrating product, but have used that,,
Marvel Mystery oil in a pump-squirt oil can , done that too,,,,
lot's of stuff available,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, the best ,,, who knows ?
 
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:18 AM
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The best penetrating fluid is a mix of ATF and acetone. 'bout 50/50. There's a test on the web somewhere comparing several, and this inexpensive combo beat them all.
WD is not a good long term lube. It evaporates leaving little lubricant. It is "Water Displacing" == WD, originally designed to get water out of ignition components, and will loosen gummy things and work as starting fluid {ether?} for small engines. I've heard the latest mix won't start mowers, though. YMMV
tom
 
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Old 01-28-2014, 07:30 AM
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So,,,,,,,,,,, I am a little good lot better guy,,, I am thinking the acetone is the key ingredient,,,, or does most of the heavy lifting,,,, because of my condition,,,, I will no doubt have to try a 70/30 ,,, or 90/10 recipe,,,, sorry, that is just what I do,,,,,,,,,,,
 
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