I bought this truck new, then sold it to my son, now I bought it back from him. it has sat a lot the last three years. replaced egr valve 08-13, fuel filter 12-13. cel has been on for a while 02 sensor, it had a bad miss in it so had advance auto scan it and it had miss in #3,#5 and I think he said high pressure exaust gas? he cleard the codes, so on the way home, It started running good. the next day it started right up and drove it a couple blocks. it sat for 30 min. then wouldn't start. I cranked it for a while. no gas smell? hooked a timing light up and didn't get no light? Im not sure if you can check to see if its firing this way? does any body know the firing order? how to check the fuel pressure? when I have removed gas cap it doesn't make any sound from pressure in the tank. also how to test coil? thanks for reading. any advise is appreciated

 

Your flying in to many directions at the same time.
Testing needs to be done to find the area of failure first.
Is the PATS system responsible for the failure to start?
If you see no timing light triggering, is the crank sensor plugged up or intermittent?
Is the PCM relay at fault?
Does the fuel pump run at key on for about 1 second?
Is the gas good or stale?
How would 2 cylinders misfiring suddenly clear up?
Clearing codes never fixes anything.
You have some work to do before there can be any answers for unknowns at this time..
All most seems the truck sat for a long period because of these issues.
Good luck.

 

I don't hear the fuel pump. I got the timing light to fire on all 6 wires. when I tried the other night the battery was about dead and it was 2 degrees out. i filled it up right before Christmas and its between 3/4 and full. im going to put plugs and wires in it when it warms up or i can figure out how to get in the garage. i will check compression while i have the plugs out. anything else i can try or replace?

 

ok I'm not hearing anything when I turn the ignition, so I assume the fuel pump is not running. I checked the fuses and they was ok, I pulled the relay and 2 pins had continuity. not sure what to check next? I guess I need to get as close to the fuel pump as I can and check for voltage and continuity on the ground?

 

Are you sure the Theft system is working correctly because if not it 'causes' the inhibits the fuel supply as the way it does the vehicle Theft protection.
What does the Theft lamp do?
Good luck.

 

hey thanks for answering. when I turn the key on it comes on and stays on for a couple seconds then goes out. then it just flashes after I take the key out.

 

thanks for responding, it was flashing when I got in the truck, then when I turned the key to run position the light came on and stayed on for a couple seconds then went out. it stayed about as long as it was chiming, which also makes it hard to hear if the fuel pump is running.

 

Just to be sure turn key to run ad let it set a couple minutes.
If the THEFT lamp begins to flash a two digit code record it and come back.
Good luck.

 

thanks blugrass, I just went out and turned it on for 5 min. the theft light stayed off. I also hooked my scanner up to it and there was zero codes stored in the memory.

 

That pretty much eliminates the PATS system as the cause of a no start.
Next look at the fuel pressure for being intermittent in some way.
Good luck.

 

Ok I will have to get a Fuel pressure gauge, so it might take a couple days. Thanks blue grass for pointing me in the right direction.

 

ok finally got it in the garage. their is a Schrader valve on the firewall, I tried to screw my fuel gauge to it and I couldn't get it all the way on, it felt like it was going to break. I covered it with a rag and pushed in the pin inside the valve and nothing came out. I checked the relay and it had power on 2 pins. there is a body to chassis ground that is real rusty. I couldn't get continuity on the cable. im going to try to clean it up tomorrow.

 

i got her started today by jumping #30 to#87 on the relay, the fuel pump started running. so I put the relay back in and it fired right up. I tried the cheapo fuel pressure gauge again, but still felt like it was going to break plastic shrader valve. im going to see if I can find a better one that I can afford. I also need a negative battery cable, my son has put a cheap end on the 2 wires and they was all corroded. while I had it running I hooked my scanner to it and there was no codes showing up. thanks Bluegrass for your help.

 

I'm a little concerned about where you trying to attach the gauge.
The regulator and test port is on the fuel rail on the engine, not the fire wall.
Good luck.

 

yes I see the valve on the fuel rail. is the regulator on the same side? could that be the fuel pump return on the fire wall?