Only 50psi out of new hpop
#1
Only 50psi out of new hpop
Hello, I'm new to this site but I've been reading a lot of threads. I'm really hoping someone has an answer.. Here's one of many questions lol. Have a 1994.5 truck that sat for 6 yrs , due to truck and Ex-wife issues ( notice which one is the ex lol) I talked to a mechanic and we decided the original issue was due to the ipr... We replaced it ( unfortunately not the fuel) and after new batteries and a little cranking she fired up, ran and sounded great. Drove my mechanic/ friend Randy home, truck ran great all the way there ( about a 30 minute drive)and most the way home, switched tanks, a few miles later started running and sounding really bad, switched back to original tank and she smoothed out until I got off the highway. Started running rough agains so I pulled into a parking lot and revved her up just a little and she smoothed out , went inside grabbed dinner to go, came out and she was idling rough, jumped in revved her up a little, she smoothed out, took my foot off the throttle, she died and she came home on a trailer, changed the cps, checked things out, no low oil pressure on the stock gauge or the mechanical gauge I installed, drained all fuel and replaced with new, put a mechanical gauge on last plug on passenger side, no hpop pressure, replaced hpop, checked fuel pressure-55lbs, ran scanner no codes, ran buzz test, all eight was loud, first two loud, next two much quieter, next two load, last two much quieter. Replaced all injector o-rings, small specs of brass in oil, replaced hpop and ipr, we think original hpop was cause of brass shavings, new hpop only 50 psi on mechanical gauge , replaced lpop when original problem started 6 years ago, maybe a couple hundred miles on lpop, no lpop pressure still but pulled fill plug on reservoir and lpop does keep it full and while cranking with plug off runs a good amount of oil out. Can't figure out why we only have 50psi on the high pressure side ? Fuel is staying clean... Not turning black, any ideas ??
#4
#5
Yep, three hoops, the original one that we think trashed itself with the new ipr which we felt was the original problem, the new one from ford with new ipr... Only 50psi with scanner and then mechanical gauge. Thought maybe it was luck of the draw.... Bad pump out if the box. Replaced that hpop with new pump and ipr, still only 50psi with mechanical gauge, did have ipr readings when we had a scanner, seemed to be functioning properly according to that mechanic. Checked voltage at ipr today and had 12 volts at ipr plug ? Is that what we should have ? What would this point to if not ?
#6
#7
Trending Topics
#8
#9
#11
I thought that the IPR was 5V and grounded by the comp, not 12V? You might have a short with the fuel heater wire as stated above. I think it is a 12V heater. If thats the case it might be screwing with the comp, making it only call for 15% DC.
Also since you haven't had the scanner on with the new (3rd) HPOP try unplugging the ICP sensor. Maybe something happened to it and the comp thinks the HPO is up to pressure.
Also, you might want to verify your mech gauge is good. Mech HPO gauges usually go to 3000 or 4000 psi, it would seem hard to distiguish 0 psi from 50 psi on a 0-3000 range unless the gauge is as big around as a wall clock.
Those are my WAGs.
Also since you haven't had the scanner on with the new (3rd) HPOP try unplugging the ICP sensor. Maybe something happened to it and the comp thinks the HPO is up to pressure.
Also, you might want to verify your mech gauge is good. Mech HPO gauges usually go to 3000 or 4000 psi, it would seem hard to distiguish 0 psi from 50 psi on a 0-3000 range unless the gauge is as big around as a wall clock.
Those are my WAGs.
#12
Hello, thanks for the info, I will talk to my mechanic and see what he says, my friend is going to come work on it this weekend, I don't have time as I'm in the middle of moving.... Much rather be working on my truck lol I have yet another question, I have another 7.3 engine, only has a little over 60,000 miles on it, truck it came out of got t-boned. Is that to many miles to consider some upgrades.... I was thinking stage 2 injectors, electric fuel system, melling lpop, stealth hpop, and a bigger turbo... More power hahaha figure if I do have to switch engines it would be a lot easier since the engine is already on a stand, what else would you guys recommend ? Do companies like swamps diesel offer or have packages that would help with the cost... If I get everything in one shot ? I will keep everyone up to date on the original issue as things progress
#13
#14
#15
Thanks Jim, I couldn't remember if it was 12 or 5V.
60k miles is begging for more power. I have almost 300k on my '96 and it would have those power adders if I had the money.
Kits usually aren't the best way to do things as far as getting optimized on the performance. What most people will recommend is TW, DP-tuner, or PHP chip, Terminator HPOP, Rosewood injectors, and an S366 turbo or larger if depending on how much power you want.
60k miles is begging for more power. I have almost 300k on my '96 and it would have those power adders if I had the money.
Kits usually aren't the best way to do things as far as getting optimized on the performance. What most people will recommend is TW, DP-tuner, or PHP chip, Terminator HPOP, Rosewood injectors, and an S366 turbo or larger if depending on how much power you want.