When to change batteries
#1
When to change batteries
I've been watching these batteries for a few months now. I'm not sure if they NEED to be changed now or if I can push them a little without damaging something.
After sitting all night (about 20dF here) both batteries are showing 12.5V
During a load test, both batteries quickly drop to about 10.5V, but hold that for 10-15 seconds.
Scangauge II
KOEO
FLP= 10.5V
FVP= 10.5V
FCM= 48.0V
These numbers do not drop during cranking and increase to 13.5V-14V directly after startup. I get a brief surging idle at startup for a few seconds and then all is good.
After sitting all night (about 20dF here) both batteries are showing 12.5V
During a load test, both batteries quickly drop to about 10.5V, but hold that for 10-15 seconds.
Scangauge II
KOEO
FLP= 10.5V
FVP= 10.5V
FCM= 48.0V
These numbers do not drop during cranking and increase to 13.5V-14V directly after startup. I get a brief surging idle at startup for a few seconds and then all is good.
#4
That's my issue I guess. I got it through a week of below zero temps without issues. I don't even plug in unless its 10 or below. It started fine without plugging in after work also. If it were any other engine I wouldn't hesitate to get them through this winter and change them before next, but I don't want to stress the FICM or anything else.
#5
#6
#7
I'd have to say I agree.
Thanks all that responded. I took the advice and went and picked up a couple of 875cca from NAPA. They have a $10 each rebate deal going, plus gave me a 10% AAA discount, and their base price was cheaper than the Diehards and Duralasts that I was considering.
I did not charge them so these numbers from this morning are after sitting on the store shelf, and running less than 5 minutes after install yesterday:
Scangauge II
KOEO
FLP= 12.5V
FVP= 12.0V
FCM= 48.0V
FLP and FVP did not jump right up to 13.5V like the old batteries did. When I started driving, they seemed to settle in about 12.5V-13V. Is that due to less demand on the ALT? The cranking effort was much better and ignition came about 50% quicker.
Thanks all that responded. I took the advice and went and picked up a couple of 875cca from NAPA. They have a $10 each rebate deal going, plus gave me a 10% AAA discount, and their base price was cheaper than the Diehards and Duralasts that I was considering.
I did not charge them so these numbers from this morning are after sitting on the store shelf, and running less than 5 minutes after install yesterday:
Scangauge II
KOEO
FLP= 12.5V
FVP= 12.0V
FCM= 48.0V
FLP and FVP did not jump right up to 13.5V like the old batteries did. When I started driving, they seemed to settle in about 12.5V-13V. Is that due to less demand on the ALT? The cranking effort was much better and ignition came about 50% quicker.
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#8
This link for FICMrepair.com answered a bunch of my questions. Like you guys recommended here, looks like I was riding the line. Looks like a good bunch of general 6.0 tips here.
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