Cummins swap/frame question
#257
#258
I will be using a sag pump, as that's what was used on the Cummins, and came with it. In this application, it is gear driven since it bolts to the back of the vacuum pump.
From what I have heard, the sag pump is is a nice upgrade for these trucks.....
#260
It was worthwhile for me.
No leaks, no spitting up if the engine is off, no obnoxious pump whine and less steering effort.
There are a lot of writeups on the forum.
Check some of the Hydroboost threads as well.
Forget about the Cardone/NAPA upgrade pumps, they are long gone.
You need to get one and all the mounts from a van with the same 300 engine as yours.
No leaks, no spitting up if the engine is off, no obnoxious pump whine and less steering effort.
There are a lot of writeups on the forum.
Check some of the Hydroboost threads as well.
Forget about the Cardone/NAPA upgrade pumps, they are long gone.
You need to get one and all the mounts from a van with the same 300 engine as yours.
#261
You also want to grab the high pressure hose from the van as the original hose on your truck won't fit the Sag. And you will probably want to rebuild the pump. The kit is cheap and there's a link to the kit and a how-to on Luke's Black Beauty thread. And I have some tips in one of my threads.
#262
Today was another day of doing a lot of stuff, but appearing to get much accomplished.
Decided to install the park brake cables. Knew it was going to require disassembling the rear brakes to hook them up. Popped off the drums (understatement of the year) and was rather shocked at what I found. In spite of the linings having at least 75% thickness left, one shoe had lost about 1/2 of it's lining and the other had lost about 1/4. Both on the driver side. The hardware, while mostly intact, looked rather horrific.
I decided the only way to move forward, was with new shoes and hardware. Luckily, the local oreilly store had both the shoes and a "all in 1 hardware kit" that had all the springs and self adjuster pieces. $40 I hadn't planned on spending, but I know it'll be worth it when the truck is back together.
Brakes are back together, and the park brake actually works now. The shoes aren't fully adjusted up though. I'm thinking of replacing the drums. They were last off the truck in 99, when I replaced a leaking wheel cyl, and did both just to sure. Prior to that, they were off in 97, right after I bought the truck, for new shoes and drums turned.
This brings me to statements I have made for years. When replacing the shoes, it's best to replace the wheel cyls. I didn't back in 97, and it bit me in 99. When replacing a leaky wheel cyl, it's best to replace the shoes. I didn't back in 99, and it bit me today. I'm pretty sure the broke linings were a direct result of having gotten soaked with fluid when the cyl started leaking, way back in 99.
I didn't get new wheel cyls, but plan to do so, even though I've kept the fluid flushed every couple years. Cheap insurance, in the long run.
I was rather amazed to see the lining thickness that remained. Those shoes had been on there for 15 years, and 100K+ miles. I've always said I'm not hard on brakes, guess this proves it......
After putting the rear back together, I swapped out the front springs, again.
By that time, it 98 outside, and 90 inside. Even with fans blowing, it was a bit much.
I loaded everything except the old engine/trans in the back of the truck, so it can be moved outside for the week. Didn't feel like moving a couple chevy's today, so I'll have to that in the morning, then I can roll the truck straight back into a parking spot.
Oh, even with the PS pump gone, the high pressure line STILL managed to leak at the gearbox. I tightened it down a bit. My sister's husband had replaced that hose a few years back when it blew while he was borrowing the truck. I knew I should have double checked it........
Decided to install the park brake cables. Knew it was going to require disassembling the rear brakes to hook them up. Popped off the drums (understatement of the year) and was rather shocked at what I found. In spite of the linings having at least 75% thickness left, one shoe had lost about 1/2 of it's lining and the other had lost about 1/4. Both on the driver side. The hardware, while mostly intact, looked rather horrific.
I decided the only way to move forward, was with new shoes and hardware. Luckily, the local oreilly store had both the shoes and a "all in 1 hardware kit" that had all the springs and self adjuster pieces. $40 I hadn't planned on spending, but I know it'll be worth it when the truck is back together.
Brakes are back together, and the park brake actually works now. The shoes aren't fully adjusted up though. I'm thinking of replacing the drums. They were last off the truck in 99, when I replaced a leaking wheel cyl, and did both just to sure. Prior to that, they were off in 97, right after I bought the truck, for new shoes and drums turned.
This brings me to statements I have made for years. When replacing the shoes, it's best to replace the wheel cyls. I didn't back in 97, and it bit me in 99. When replacing a leaky wheel cyl, it's best to replace the shoes. I didn't back in 99, and it bit me today. I'm pretty sure the broke linings were a direct result of having gotten soaked with fluid when the cyl started leaking, way back in 99.
I didn't get new wheel cyls, but plan to do so, even though I've kept the fluid flushed every couple years. Cheap insurance, in the long run.
I was rather amazed to see the lining thickness that remained. Those shoes had been on there for 15 years, and 100K+ miles. I've always said I'm not hard on brakes, guess this proves it......
After putting the rear back together, I swapped out the front springs, again.
By that time, it 98 outside, and 90 inside. Even with fans blowing, it was a bit much.
I loaded everything except the old engine/trans in the back of the truck, so it can be moved outside for the week. Didn't feel like moving a couple chevy's today, so I'll have to that in the morning, then I can roll the truck straight back into a parking spot.
Oh, even with the PS pump gone, the high pressure line STILL managed to leak at the gearbox. I tightened it down a bit. My sister's husband had replaced that hose a few years back when it blew while he was borrowing the truck. I knew I should have double checked it........
#263
A bit lighter front springs?
Anyway, glad you got the brakes fixed. You'll need them, and soon I hope. But I agree that brakes are something that should be done right the first time. Still kicking myself that I didn't replace the shoes on Rusty after they got soaked. LR is grabby, and all I would have had to do was to walk out to the now-springless frame and grab those shoes.
As for the heat, it certainly was warm today. We just haven't had that yet this year so aren't used to it.
Anyway, glad you got the brakes fixed. You'll need them, and soon I hope. But I agree that brakes are something that should be done right the first time. Still kicking myself that I didn't replace the shoes on Rusty after they got soaked. LR is grabby, and all I would have had to do was to walk out to the now-springless frame and grab those shoes.
As for the heat, it certainly was warm today. We just haven't had that yet this year so aren't used to it.
#264
I'm thinking that I can have the truck done by Oct. Any sooner would be an added bonus. If I had everything already in my possession, I could have it done a lot sooner.
Some might think I jumped the gun by tearing it apart before having everything needed to put it back together. But, I didn't want to risk the engine blowing up, so I wasn't driving it. Besides, this gives me time to give the truck any extra attention it needs, like the brakes. I had no idea they were in that bad of shape, because they still worked. Heck, the adjusters weren't froze up. 1 was slightly out of adjustment, due to only having the eyelet end of the cable. The rest of the cable was nowhere to be found...... That was on the same side as the crumbling linings. Lots of exposed rivets on those 2 shoes.
Some might think I jumped the gun by tearing it apart before having everything needed to put it back together. But, I didn't want to risk the engine blowing up, so I wasn't driving it. Besides, this gives me time to give the truck any extra attention it needs, like the brakes. I had no idea they were in that bad of shape, because they still worked. Heck, the adjusters weren't froze up. 1 was slightly out of adjustment, due to only having the eyelet end of the cable. The rest of the cable was nowhere to be found...... That was on the same side as the crumbling linings. Lots of exposed rivets on those 2 shoes.
#266
I have been gearing up for this for about a year. Between researching, planning, and accumulating stuff, I also have bills to pay. A cool ride is nice, but a roof over my head is even nicer.......
I know I could have got a bit more stuff, had I not bought and fixed that car a couple months back. But, I could easily sell it for twice what I have in it. And, that is an option I have been considering. Those funds could go a long ways toward getting the rest of what I need to finish this project.
#267
Since this week, and today in particular, seems to be a cummins specific theme at the shop, I sent my injectors over to be cleaned and tested. We had 2 other cummins trucks in with injector issues, so I figured we had someone going there anyways.......
I certainly wouldn't want to buy those Cummins Common rail injectors. Just 1 of them is more than a set of 6 for a 12V.
I certainly wouldn't want to buy those Cummins Common rail injectors. Just 1 of them is more than a set of 6 for a 12V.
#268
#270
My idea for a build thread is to have something that a person could follow start to finish a bit easier. Sort of a "tech" thread of what it takes to swap this type of engine, into this bodystyle truck.
Of course, I could just have the title of this one edited, since the second part of the title has been dealt with long ago.......
Besides, I didn't say I would abandon this thread......