Compression is the 'push' on the lever of crank throw.

351M/400 didn't ever come with a 4V intake, did they?

Yup, take a look at the port sizes and exhaust manifold of that canted valve engine!

Ford introduced these engines at the very height of emissions misery.
Put the 400 in all kinds of behemoth land yachts.
They needed the BB bell pattern to install a drivetrain that would hold up.

As for never coming in the same vehicle...
I'm sure glad my grandma opted for the 460 over the 400 in her 1977 Country Squire.
Neither one was rated to break 200hp that year.
It would burn the rubber off the rear wheels and on the highway cruised at insane speeds for something so large.


Gary, have a great time with your GTG!

 

The 351M and 400 were introduced as Jim points out, at the height of the early emission insanity. Ford had dropped the 390 2V in the cars at the end of 1969. The engine lineup for my 1971 Colony Park was, base engine 351 2V (W only in those years), 429 2V and 429 4V remembering Ford used V to indicate Venturi or essentially carburetor barrels.

In the trucks, the FE engines continued until the end of 1976, with the 360 2V, 390 2V and the Camper Special 390 4V, in 1977, the 360 2V was replaced by the 351M 2V, 390 2V was replaced by the 400 2V, 390 4V no replacement, but you could get a 460 4V with one of Ford's worst carburetors, the 4300D. After 1979 the 460 4V vanished from the lineup leaving the 400 pig as the biggest engine you could get.

Had Ford put a little money in certifying a 4V version of the 400 they might have had something, at least they did bring back the 460 and as bad a rap as the 4180 Holley gets, it was infinitely better than a 4300D.

As for burning rubber, after my late wife blew up the 429 4V in the Colony Park, I picked up what was sold to me as a 1973 429 short block. I simply stuck the 71 cam and heads on it giving me a 9.5:1 CR, down from the 11:1 of the old 429. I found out later that it was in fact a 74 460. With a Holley 600 CFM carb and a 2.71 rear, it would smoke both rear tires for about 1 1/2 city blocks, loads of torque! I hope Darth's new engine is as strong as that one was. It still lives, it's in a 1979 F-150 in Hampton VA.

 

Here we go sidetracking Dad's Engine thread again...

Bill, you say you swapped '71 429 heads onto a '74 emissions era 460 block.
Were you REALLY at 9.5:1 as you expected, or did that extra 500cc put you a little higher?
62.5cc per cylinder would make some difference, no???

Gosh I can remember knocking and run on from these poor high compression engines in the later '70's when high-test octane numbers dropped.
At least the OPEC oil embargo and odd/even rationing had ended by the time I got a job pumping gas on the graveyard shift in'77.

 

Want to compare stock W to stock 335?
How about a 351W vs 351C. Both were available at the same time, and often in the same cars. Hands down, the 351C was king. Same bore/stroke, same bellhousing pattern. The main difference, was the heads. Those same style heads were one of the reasons the "real" BOSS 302 was such a beast in it's day. That was a windsor block, with 335 series heads.

Had the 400 come out a few years earlier, before the EPA mandates, everyone would have seen the true potential of the design.
1970 was the only year a 400 was ever offered with a 4V carb, but it still had EPA nutered internals.
As previously mentioned, the 400 was intended to replace the 390 FE in cars. It could make more power/torque, in a lighter/more compact package, with all things equal internally. And, lets face it, the 390 was a rather potent engine back in the 60's, in spite of heads that didn't flow all that well (compared to the flow of the 335 heads) and being a rather heavy chunk of iron......

 

It is however not cost effective to switch to a Windsor engine when you have a 400 in place. Also, the 400 was never designed to replace the Windsor. It was designed to compete with Chevy's 6.6 liter engines. The 351M was designed to supplement the 351W. It was a more smog-friendly engine than the Windsor, simply because the 400 was really designed around emissions laws. The Windsor was not inhibited as such.

For about what it cost me to build a 400 ft-lb 400, I would be hard pressed to get a 351W AND transmission in solid condition. And to get a 400 ft-lb Wimdsor, I would have to do a lot of the same upgrades. Cam profile and carb size would change if I elected to keep the stock stroke. One engine is not necessarily "better" than the other. The Windsor is more supported, so it is easier to build. However, the inherant torque of the 400 with only mild upgrades is undeniable. And better for my application.

Engines alone don't move mountains. You must consider the whole package.

 

All very well said guys *thumbs up*.

 

Time to get started, slowly, on Dad's engine. So, I investigated the holes in the block that look like they've been plugged, as shown by the red circles. If you use a magnifying glass on them it looks like metal that was pushed there as the block was decked. But, in reality it is a lot thicker than that. Talked to the machinist and he said he thinks it was part of the casting process and they usually aren't noticed until the block is decked.




Sure enough, here's the 400 block I have and the yellow circles are the same points, which are blocked, but unless you look CLOSELY you cannot tell. So, the machinist must be right.




So then I put the head gasket on the TFS head and the green circles show where there is no hole in the head - but there is a black dot where I hit the head with a Sharpie. IOW, there would be no flow from the block even if there was a hole there. Much ado about nothing.

 

Did some more on the engine, now starting on the oiling system mods. Here are the oil filter adapters: On the right is the new one I bought from Tim; in the middle is the one out of Dad's engine with the arrow showing the damage the vice grips made; and on the left is the one from the 400 with the mod's I'm going to make to allow the oil more distance to make the turn into the 1/2" passage that runs at an angle.




Here's a close-up of that passage that the oil has to turn into. As you can see there's a very sharp ridge that will shear the flow and cause a lot of turbulence.



I will grind that ridge down to create a large bowl that will guide the oil into the passage - similar to what I did on the other block:




And this fuzzy pic shows the passage that intersects the one from the filter, and then continues on to the #1 main. But where this passage intersects the one from the filter there is a very sharp corner. I'm going to run a ball hone through both passages in hopes of rounding that corner some and, thereby, freeing up the oil's passage.




And the ball hones I'm going to use are these from :





These "Gary Lewis" mods, coupled with the "Tim Meyer" mods should significantly aid the flow of oil in the engine, and these engines are known for having oiling issues.

 

Ok, with all the theory documented it is time to get busy. First, let's do the Tim Meyer mods. Here's a pic from his web site showing what is supposed to be done:





Here's where I drilled out the one passage from 1/4" to 5/16". Note that you are only drilling down into the intersection with the passage coming from the oil filter, not all the way to the cam bearing.




Then tap the other passage for a 1/4" pipe plug. And, when you are done clean up the edges of both holes so there is no shoulder from the drilling and tapping. Note that you don't have to drill the passage out as it is already 1/2" where typically a tap drill for 1/4" pipe is 7/16". So the threads aren't all that deep but if the plug is put in w/Loctite it isn't coming out or going to leak.





So, now we are done w/Tim's mod's, but let's do some of Gary's mod's. Here's a drawing showing the pocket behind the filter adapter and the problem I see with the sharp corner. Basically, I think the oil will hit the wall behind the adapter and make a hard left, thereby causing turbulence and reducing the flow of oil.





This shows what I want to do to prevent that problem:





Here's the pic of the oil filter pocket before grinding showing the sharp edge:




And here's the block after a bit of grinding and smoothing - both the inlet to the filter from the oil pump, on the top, and into the block after the filter adapter. Once I get the ball hones I'll smooth things even more.




And then a bit of smoothing to the filter adapter's outlet:




And, tomorrow it is time to chase every threaded hole with a tap to ensure things are perfectly clean. And I'll do some smoothing of the oil drainback holes to aid the oil in making it back to the pump.

 

So, either I haven't read it, or I've forgotten the exact reason for the oil passage mod. I know it's to get oil to the front main quicker, but is that the only main bearing that has issues?

 

Actually, the front main has way too much oil going to it. Tim says he's seen oil squirting out of it and back into the pan. Here's my drawing, pieced together from other drawings, of the 335 Series oiling system:




As you can see, #1 has lots of oil going to it, so Tim says to block off the large passage and drill out the other to 5/16". That places more of the oil in the passenger's side gallery and, hopefully, means the driver's side gallery gets some oil.

 

Ahh, I guess I never read that article. I need to dig around Tim's site again.
Thanks Gary!

 

Welcome. Don't build a 335 Series engine with a stock oiling system. Both Dad's, when it was running, and Rusty idled at ~10 psi hot. While that is enough, the pressure sender is not at the end of the line, as you can see in the diagram. So it is likely that the #5 lifters were/are getting very little oil at idle. Hopefully this resolves that issue.

 

Well hasn't Tim built enough of these engines with that mod to prove that it works?

 

Yes, so I shouldn't have said "hopefully". It will resolve it. Thanks for the correction.