Has anyone had a good experience(s)with shops in Florida? Specifically the Orlando area but I would be willing todrive to Tampa or even Jax if I had to. I normally do all my work myself butthis latest issue has me stumped and is just getting to that point of lettingsome who specializes in these diesels take over.

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I have read up and down the forumslooking for a solution but nothing seems to be the fix I need. Here is theissue for some background:

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Starting about 2 months ago… The truck idles a little rough (mostpeople would say it’s just a 7.3 but I have driven it for 8 years) then itmisses/shakes/shutters real bad in the 1200-1800 RPM range and the worst at1500. Only when accelerating, as soon as you let off the pedal its normal. Andif you run at 2000 RPM it runs strong. The worst is at 1500 RPM when it shiftsinto OD, bad enough to spill a full glass of water. It feels like when my ValveCover harness came undone but I checked it all out.

I have scanned the truck and no codes (other than the pedestalP0476 and AIH P0541). I did get contribution failures. First scan with gray CPS#1,3,& 8. Second scan with black CPS #5. Between the 2 scans all theinjectors were out and did not go back in the same spot (other than #8).
I unplugged each injector one at a time while running, every time it ran worseand you could see the oil discharge quit. When running with the VC's off theyall spit oil evenly.

I have swapped out 3 different CPS's (2 blacks and a gray) and itruns the same with each.
I pulled all 8 injectors one had a bad o-ring so I replaced all the o-rings. I hadthem bench tested (Nozzle Masters in Orlando) and they said they were all good.They also scanned the truck when it was back together and said nothing on thescanner was out of the norm.
I replaced the ICP because when I unplugged it the truck ran the same (also hadsome oil in the plug)
UVCH was replaced few years ago, still looks good and tightly connected.
Replaced EBPS and cleaned tube (had good reading from the scanner).

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My truck is a 2001 with a little over 188k.

Mods are: 6637, Zoodad, 6-Pos TS, 203* Thermo, 4" MBRP w/Aeroturbine, Bellowed Up Pipes, Turbomaster Wastegate, non-EBPV pedestal &outlet, Plenum Inserts, AIH Delete, Intercooler boots, Overboost Annihilator,Wicked Wheel, Stancor Glow Plug Relay, and HXP. The tuner is currentlyunplugged.


The injectors are stock rebuilds about 3 years ago (<10k), theHPOP was replaced less than 2 years ago, the turbo was rebuilt 8 months ago,and the PCM was replaced about 4 years ago.

 

I would also be interested in troubleshooting ideas or suggestions.

I know the IPR is another area to consider but dont want to just keep buying parts.

Thanks in advance, Michael.

 

I know a REALLY good Ford diesel shop in Ocala.

North East Auto & Truck Services
3641 NE 36th Ave
Ocala, FL 34479

(352) 867-7400

Steve Roberts is the owner. Tell him I sent you.

 

Thank you.

What kind of work have you had done with him?

 

Engine repairs.

 

Do you get the shutter/shake over the same RPM range with the transmission in neutral or only while driving? My truck shook pretty bad between 25 and 35 MPH (1200 to 1800 RPM in third gear) but smoothed out as soon as I backed off the throttle. The problem was a loose cap on the rear U-joint, which was causing the rear drive shaft to become unbalanced under load.

 

When just sitting at idle I can feel/hear it slightly. When sitting in the driveway in park and revving it up its slightly more noticable. Its the worse when under load at the 1500 RPM range no matter the gear or speed. Which makes me think its the motor. If it was an unbalanced driveshaft issue like you had it would be more tied to the speed and not the RPMs, right? Much like when your tire is unbalanced and shakes real bad at one specific speed.

 

Yes, it would be tied to vehicle speed. My vibration was worst around 30 MPH, but it was noticeable from 25 to 35. I originally thought the problem was with the engine because the shake was only there under load. As soon as I got off the accelerator the vibration would stop, regardless of vehicle or engine speed. What was actually happening was that the rear U joint was shifting slightly under load, unbalancing the drive shaft.

I also felt a slight vibration around 1500 RPM in neutral which added to my suspicion that it was an engine problem. Turned out that it was unrelated.

 

Yeah that isnt my problem, its always around 1500 RPM no matter the speed or gear...

 

This is probably a long shot, and I'm not certain it would cause those symptoms, but have you checked your harmonic balancer? I've seen several threads related to it failing.

 

No I have not checked the balancer. How would you check that? Just by looking at it?

I dont think its just an engine balance issue though. I really do think its internally running rough. Oil or fuel delivery related. I just hope its not a piston or something serious.

 

Make sure it isn't "wobbling" while the engine is running and look at the rubber ring in it to check for missing chunks or damage. Other than that, I'm not sure how to check for a bad one. The ones I've seen that were shot were pretty obvious.

 

Torque converter??

 

Ok I will check that.

Im pretty sure its not the Torque converter. It does have a slightly rough idle and misses/shakes just revving it up in park. But how could I test the Torque Converter to be sure its not it?

 

No.
You can't check it. But there is no reason to check it, either. How would the torque converter make it shake at 1500 RPM in park? You could better use your time checking tire pressures. That at least would be useful, though neither one will help fix this problem.