Used Banks kit-value??
#1
Used Banks kit-value??
I have a guy offering me a used Banks turbo kit he got with a 93 idi truck he bought. He's not planning on running a turbo so he offered it to me for $350. All he knows is it came off a truck with 140K miles on it that had the tranny let go. I'm waiting for him to send some parts numbers. I have an 89 F250 that I wouldn't mind putting a turbo on if I can do it on a budget. He's not familiar with turbo kits but thinks only the intake tubes are missing.
#3
#4
I believe it's an older kit so I'm hoping for some member feedback on whether it will work on my 89 7.3/ZF. The sticker on the air box says "Turbochager system for Ford 6.9/7.3 Diesel" model 6.9f. I've never installed a turbo kit so can anyone help me out with what should be in the kit? I can't find a pic to go by because it's an older kit.
#5
Um... parts you need are:
1. cast iron piece that is around 2' long and connects to the right exhaust manifold, up to the input of the turbo(where the turbo mounts on).
2. Crossover pipe which connects the left exhaust manifold to the right one (this should be steel pipe, and could probably be fabricated by an exhaust shop if needed)
3. Turbo(of course)
4. Down-pipe, steel, goes from output of the turbo down under the truck. Anything beyond this is entirely optional, if you run straight-piped. You can have any piping down here fabricated up easily, too.
5. Aluminum intake cap piece -- it bolts over the intake hole on the intake manifold, and connects to the air-pressure side of your turbo with a short bit of hose.
6. Intake side: Should be a couple of rubber hose connectors, an aluminum 90 angle which also has a port for the CDR.
7. CDR-hose - a very well bent 1" hose that goes from the front of the engine back to the CDR. 2.5' long or so
8. CDR connector adapter -- 2" diameter, 1" wide adaptor which bolts to the front of the IP cover and allows you to hook up #7 to it.
At least, this is what mine has.
Edit: Check the turbo. If it has a little vacuum actuator bolted onto it, with a little hose going over to the pressure/intake side, then you've got a wastegated model. If not, you've got the non-wastegated model.
Wastegated model is better(builds more boost at a lower RPM), but either will work. And that price is pretty cheap, if it's basically intact.
1. cast iron piece that is around 2' long and connects to the right exhaust manifold, up to the input of the turbo(where the turbo mounts on).
2. Crossover pipe which connects the left exhaust manifold to the right one (this should be steel pipe, and could probably be fabricated by an exhaust shop if needed)
3. Turbo(of course)
4. Down-pipe, steel, goes from output of the turbo down under the truck. Anything beyond this is entirely optional, if you run straight-piped. You can have any piping down here fabricated up easily, too.
5. Aluminum intake cap piece -- it bolts over the intake hole on the intake manifold, and connects to the air-pressure side of your turbo with a short bit of hose.
6. Intake side: Should be a couple of rubber hose connectors, an aluminum 90 angle which also has a port for the CDR.
7. CDR-hose - a very well bent 1" hose that goes from the front of the engine back to the CDR. 2.5' long or so
8. CDR connector adapter -- 2" diameter, 1" wide adaptor which bolts to the front of the IP cover and allows you to hook up #7 to it.
At least, this is what mine has.
Edit: Check the turbo. If it has a little vacuum actuator bolted onto it, with a little hose going over to the pressure/intake side, then you've got a wastegated model. If not, you've got the non-wastegated model.
Wastegated model is better(builds more boost at a lower RPM), but either will work. And that price is pretty cheap, if it's basically intact.
#6
Um... parts you need are:
1. cast iron piece that is around 2' long and connects to the right exhaust manifold, up to the input of the turbo(where the turbo mounts on).
2. Crossover pipe which connects the left exhaust manifold to the right one (this should be steel pipe, and could probably be fabricated by an exhaust shop if needed)
3. Turbo(of course)
4. Down-pipe, steel, goes from output of the turbo down under the truck. Anything beyond this is entirely optional, if you run straight-piped. You can have any piping down here fabricated up easily, too.
5. Aluminum intake cap piece -- it bolts over the intake hole on the intake manifold, and connects to the air-pressure side of your turbo with a short bit of hose.
6. Intake side: Should be a couple of rubber hose connectors, an aluminum 90 angle which also has a port for the CDR.
7. CDR-hose - a very well bent 1" hose that goes from the front of the engine back to the CDR. 2.5' long or so
8. CDR connector adapter -- 2" diameter, 1" wide adaptor which bolts to the front of the IP cover and allows you to hook up #7 to it.
At least, this is what mine has.
1. cast iron piece that is around 2' long and connects to the right exhaust manifold, up to the input of the turbo(where the turbo mounts on).
2. Crossover pipe which connects the left exhaust manifold to the right one (this should be steel pipe, and could probably be fabricated by an exhaust shop if needed)
3. Turbo(of course)
4. Down-pipe, steel, goes from output of the turbo down under the truck. Anything beyond this is entirely optional, if you run straight-piped. You can have any piping down here fabricated up easily, too.
5. Aluminum intake cap piece -- it bolts over the intake hole on the intake manifold, and connects to the air-pressure side of your turbo with a short bit of hose.
6. Intake side: Should be a couple of rubber hose connectors, an aluminum 90 angle which also has a port for the CDR.
7. CDR-hose - a very well bent 1" hose that goes from the front of the engine back to the CDR. 2.5' long or so
8. CDR connector adapter -- 2" diameter, 1" wide adaptor which bolts to the front of the IP cover and allows you to hook up #7 to it.
At least, this is what mine has.
#7
I doubt it. I've got a wastegated one, craigslist find myself.
But, as far as I remember, the non-wastegated model was very similar. It's just the turbo that's different.
Pictures would help, and your pic links don't work for me.
But, as far as I remember, the non-wastegated model was very similar. It's just the turbo that's different.
Pictures would help, and your pic links don't work for me.
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#8
#9
Apparently it's around a 1985 vintage sidewinder system. Output is suppose to be 215 hp @ 3200 rpm, give or take a few and 460 ft lbs @ 2000 rpm. If it's the original turbo to the kit is shouldn't have a wastegate. Can any upgrades be done to make it usable? I'm not looking for max power so if it's a decent system especially for the price I'd probably grab it. The increase in mpg would be the biggest plus.
The lag from this system is supposedly much more noticeable than from the Hypermax systems.
The lag from this system is supposedly much more noticeable than from the Hypermax systems.
#10
Here's mine, installed: http://imageshack.com/a/img823/9817/syf6.jpg
#5 is the black piece with 'sidewinder' on it. #6, check the input of the turbo there on the left.
This is a stock install, /except/ for a black plastic air duct that went around the air filter. Wouldn't fit with mine, because the only air filter I could get my hands on was slightly longer, and barely fits as-is with the AC compressor there.
Doesn't really hurt anything though, as far as I can tell.
#12
Um... parts you need are:
1. cast iron piece that is around 2' long and connects to the right exhaust manifold, up to the input of the turbo(where the turbo mounts on).
2. Crossover pipe which connects the left exhaust manifold to the right one (this should be steel pipe, and could probably be fabricated by an exhaust shop if needed)
3. Turbo(of course)
4. Down-pipe, steel, goes from output of the turbo down under the truck. Anything beyond this is entirely optional, if you run straight-piped. You can have any piping down here fabricated up easily, too.
5. Aluminum intake cap piece -- it bolts over the intake hole on the intake manifold, and connects to the air-pressure side of your turbo with a short bit of hose.
6. Intake side: Should be a couple of rubber hose connectors, an aluminum 90 angle which also has a port for the CDR.
7. CDR-hose - a very well bent 1" hose that goes from the front of the engine back to the CDR. 2.5' long or so
8. CDR connector adapter -- 2" diameter, 1" wide adaptor which bolts to the front of the IP cover and allows you to hook up #7 to it.
At least, this is what mine has.
Edit: Check the turbo. If it has a little vacuum actuator bolted onto it, with a little hose going over to the pressure/intake side, then you've got a wastegated model. If not, you've got the non-wastegated model.
Wastegated model is better(builds more boost at a lower RPM), but either will work. And that price is pretty cheap, if it's basically intact.
1. cast iron piece that is around 2' long and connects to the right exhaust manifold, up to the input of the turbo(where the turbo mounts on).
2. Crossover pipe which connects the left exhaust manifold to the right one (this should be steel pipe, and could probably be fabricated by an exhaust shop if needed)
3. Turbo(of course)
4. Down-pipe, steel, goes from output of the turbo down under the truck. Anything beyond this is entirely optional, if you run straight-piped. You can have any piping down here fabricated up easily, too.
5. Aluminum intake cap piece -- it bolts over the intake hole on the intake manifold, and connects to the air-pressure side of your turbo with a short bit of hose.
6. Intake side: Should be a couple of rubber hose connectors, an aluminum 90 angle which also has a port for the CDR.
7. CDR-hose - a very well bent 1" hose that goes from the front of the engine back to the CDR. 2.5' long or so
8. CDR connector adapter -- 2" diameter, 1" wide adaptor which bolts to the front of the IP cover and allows you to hook up #7 to it.
At least, this is what mine has.
Edit: Check the turbo. If it has a little vacuum actuator bolted onto it, with a little hose going over to the pressure/intake side, then you've got a wastegated model. If not, you've got the non-wastegated model.
Wastegated model is better(builds more boost at a lower RPM), but either will work. And that price is pretty cheap, if it's basically intact.
#13
Join Date: Mar 2005
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the links you are posting are no good.
make an account with Photo and image hosting, free photo galleries, photo editing and post the pictures there.
if it is pre 88 it is a non wastegated unit and nothing like the one macrobb posted.
either way, pick it up. for that price you can flip it if you decide not to use it.
the turbo alone is worth $350-$400.
there is very little turbo lag with these units, and it really wakes these engines up when used with a low restriction muffler, or no muffler.
i don't have any pictures of my unit off the truck. .
if the air box looks like this it is a non waste gated unit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-7-3L-Banks-Turbo-Air-Filter-Box-/191035422701?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7a9937ed&vxp=mtr
make an account with Photo and image hosting, free photo galleries, photo editing and post the pictures there.
if it is pre 88 it is a non wastegated unit and nothing like the one macrobb posted.
either way, pick it up. for that price you can flip it if you decide not to use it.
the turbo alone is worth $350-$400.
there is very little turbo lag with these units, and it really wakes these engines up when used with a low restriction muffler, or no muffler.
i don't have any pictures of my unit off the truck. .
if the air box looks like this it is a non waste gated unit:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-7-3L-Banks-Turbo-Air-Filter-Box-/191035422701?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7a9937ed&vxp=mtr
#14
#15
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