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  #1  
Old 01-15-2014, 11:39 AM
jimcar-9 jimcar-9 is offline
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Stock steering shaft coupler to CPP 3/4-30 splines

Hi guys

I have bought the CPP power steering box and I am looking for a coupler that has the 3/4-30 (CPP) in one end and a 3/4 DD in the other end not larger than 1" OD. It has proven that that is not that easy for manufacturing reason. Its hard to make the spline when the DD makes a (bottom) in the middle of the coupler.

There is a coupler with a smooth end that should be pined and welded, but the welding part is not that well accepted by the Swedish authorities...... ( might be the solution I have to go with anyway)

The thing I am aiming for is to connect the stock steering shaft (shortened) to the CPP box and still keep the outer steering column tube (1 1/4) as much as possible ( slide it over the coupler) to be able to keep the 3 on the tree shift linkage.

Any suggestions and thaughts are appreciated
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:08 AM
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bjmayberry2 bjmayberry2 is offline
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Contact MidFiftys they have the stuff I'm pretty sure. There are several that have done this on the forum that should have specifics. Welding on steering columns is also frowned upon here in the states too.
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Old 01-16-2014, 10:54 AM
truckeemtnfords truckeemtnfords is offline
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Borgenson joints will have it, Try Summit Racing or just do a search.
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Old 01-16-2014, 11:28 AM
jimcar-9 jimcar-9 is offline
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The universal joints are to large to fit inside the column tube, and I have not been able to find a straight. Coupler that fit inside the tube with 3/4-30 x 3/4DD. I need to extend the tube over the coupler to be able to keep the stock 3 on the tree linkage
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Old 01-16-2014, 03:18 PM
SCD SCD is offline
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Why does the coupler have to be inside the tube? Can’t the shaft go past the shift linkage and then mount the coupler? It seems either way the shaft has to pass beyond the linkage whether before or after the coupler.
Scott
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:20 AM
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If you can't find anything at the previously suggested suppliers I would recommend checking with Flaming River. When I visited their plant last year it appears that they can make just about anything. Here is the link to their Custom Manufacturing Program.

Good luck,
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:00 AM
jimcar-9 jimcar-9 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCD View Post
Why does the coupler have to be inside the tube? Can’t the shaft go past the shift linkage and then mount the coupler? It seems either way the shaft has to pass beyond the linkage whether before or after the coupler.
Scott
It seems their are not enough space between the cab floor and the steering box shaft to be able to fit the gear selection linkage and a. Joitnt/coupler after each other.
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Old 01-17-2014, 11:01 AM
jimcar-9 jimcar-9 is offline
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Originally Posted by petemcl View Post
If you can't find anything at the previously suggested suppliers I would recommend checking with Flaming River. When I visited their plant last year it appears that they can make just about anything. Here is the link to their Custom Manufacturing Program.

Good luck,
Now we are talking!!! Thanks!!
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:22 PM
truckeemtnfords truckeemtnfords is offline
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It sounds as if the shaft will be going straight to the steering box and if that is true you don't need a universal joint style, which is where the size would make it bigger in the OD. Try getting a straight coupler with the the 3/4-30 end and then weld the other end to your shaft. That should keep the OD down and end up working like a stock shaft for you.
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Old 01-17-2014, 12:44 PM
jimcar-9 jimcar-9 is offline
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Yep thats the best solution I got, but I would like to switch the weld for a DD and thru pin. The government dont like welds on steering shafts
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Old 01-17-2014, 07:13 PM
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If your going straight into the box, why not machine the input shaft for the box also. Match the steering box and the steering shaft with a double D, get a connector, drill and pin both.
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:51 PM
turnrjr turnrjr is offline
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I adapted a Toyota power steering box to the stock column while keeping the original column shifter and it was a challenge. I assume the CPP unit is similar. I used a Borgeson coupler. One end was splined to match to steering box. The other end was a smooth bore that matched the stock steering shaft. I welded the coupler to the shaft. Also drilled a 3/8” hole through the side of the coupler on the steering shaft end and welded the shaft to the coupling while plug welding the hole. Welds were ground and smoothed to the original OD of the coupler. The column tube was cut the minimum amount to allow the connection to the steering box while allowing the upper portion of the coupler to extend into the tube. A bronze oil impregnated bushing was inserted in the stock column tube as a centering bearing for the shaft. It is positioned so it contacts only the upper part on the coupling. Additional length of the bushing extends further up the column beyond the coupling and is secured to the column tube by two set screws drilled & tapped into the bushing. As the coupling does not reach to the upper end of the bushing, the set screws are able to protrude past the ID without contacting the coupling or shaft. The set screws have lock nuts on the outside of the column. A standard lip oil seal is that fits the ID of the column and OD of the coupler is available and is installed at the column end to keep crud out.
The stock sheet metal segments on the cab floor around the steering column are replaced with a thicker one piece panel with an oversize hole for the column and pedals. Use one set of the stock segments to retain the rubber seals around the pedals. A support clamp for the lower end of the column was fabricated to secure the column to the new floor plate inside of the cab.
Having shortened the steering column tube, the column mounted transmission shifting arms need to be repositioned higher on the column which causes a clearance problem. The upper shifting arm can’t rotate without hitting the fire wall. The column shifter tube also requires shortening relevant to the repositioned shifter arm assembly.
First the fix for the arm clearance: After taking careful measurements of the existing arms relevant to each other and radius lengths, the arms were cut, partially straightened and welded back together to remove most of the original dog leg shape.
Shortening the shifter tube: If the shifting linkage feels loose and sloppy it is likely caused in part by ware on the bottom of the shifter tube and a steel pin that engages the slots in the two shifter arms. This is an opportune time to rebuild the bottom section of the tube while shortening it. There is an excellent tech article by FTE member Albuq F-1 (Ross) on how this is done. Google Ford F-Series Column Shift Repairs. It is important to properly locate the drilled hole for the pin at the bottom of the shifter tube. If drilled off center even slightly, the pin will not engage the slots in the shifter arms properly. I ruined the first one. Also the position of the hole relevant to the shifter handle needs to be referenced before cutting the tube so it may be “clocked” in the correct position before re-welding the shortened tube. This will insure the shifter will stay correctly positioned through the range of movement while shifting.
Lastly, you will likely need to build two new shifting rods that go from the transmission to the repositioned arms on the column. I used 5/16” round stock, bent as needed, threaded both ends and used heim joints.
The truck shifts well.
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Old 01-17-2014, 09:51 PM
 
 
 
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