Very nice! Ill look him up now. Thank you

 

I'll be picking up my trashed transmission today, and once I do I will take pictures for those interested in seeing the damage. I dont think I can post them here, but I may be able to email them to you. Maybe someone could use them if this issue were to come up again on someone else.

 

So, after trying to find this ever elusive M5OD-R2 for a reasonable price, and failing, I decided that I would just go ahead and tear into the one I have currently.

After a couple hours with a hammer and a punch, I was able to remove the Input shaft front bearing. Needless to say, it was dang near welded to the shoulder of the shaft. After removing this, I still was not able to disengage the front of the input shaft from the output shaft. After looking at some prints I confirmed what I have been told, and that the front piece should separate from from the rest of the shaft. A little more hammer love proved sufficient. This is when pieces and chunks of metal started falling out of what USED to be a bearing and into the bottom of the transmission.

The short of it, the bearing ran dry and then ran hot and essentially melted and welded itself to BOTH the front and the rear shaft sections. I believe I can repair this if I can find the bearings.

My question is, if I were to find a NON 4x4 tranny, would the INPUT shaft section be the same as mine, which is 4x4? If not, I will just take the one ive got and have it turned and sleeved to fit a new bearing.

Thanks for any and all advice!

 

You may want to check out ebay item number 141172845280. Located in Byron, Illinois, $525.00, warranty for 12 months or 12000 miles. Hot tanked and rebuilt.

 

Very nice! Thank you. May have to purchase that one.

Whats even better, I may be able to get around the shipping. It's only about 2 and a half hours north of me.

 

Not sure if this site has been listed here, but I found it very useful in terms of part identification and cost of each part for the M5R2.

Hard Parts

 

I bought the replacement shifter bushings for the M5OD-R2 in a 1994 F150 and went to remove the shifter, and the nut that is supposed to be removed from one side and tightened on the other just spins freely over the threads on the bolt, won't tighten or loosen, and won't pull off. How do I get the shifter off of the stub?

 

First thing I would try is a BRASS hammer. Brass won't mushroom the bolt. Get as big a brass hammer as practical and of course make sure you are pounding in the right direction.

 

Thank you I did try that, which direction is right just in case I screwed up? I don't know which way it's tapered since I can't see it. And what could the next step be and why is the nut just spinning freely?

 

I don't know which direction is which. As far as the nut spinning freely, the threads on either the bolt or the nut must be stripped. If just the nut is stripped, you may be able to get a different nut. Otherwise I don't know where to go from here, that bolt is mighty hard material.

 

The normal position of the nut is on the passenger side. To remove the stud/wedge you place the nut on the driver side and tighten the nut.

As you tighten the nut it's supposed to pull the stud towards the driver side but normally does nothing.

Most people get out a hammer and punch and tap the stud on the passenger side towards the driver side.

Since you can't remove the nut which is on the passenger side of the stud you need to cut it off. You can't remove the wedge with the nut still on the passenger side.

Use a torx bit and loosen the three torx screws at the base of the shifter tower. You may have to move the shifter lever around to get access to all three.

Shift the transmission to neutral. With your fingers remove the three loosened torx screws. Hold onto the shifter and lift straight up. The shifter lever and shifter pivot ball will come off in one piece.

On your work bench use a hack saw or die grinder and cut the nut off.
If you cut a slot in the nut you can probably use a chisel and split it open
and spin it off with out damaging any threads.

If you damage some of the threads it's no big deal you can run a die on them or just buy another nut and use a spacer or washers over the damaged thread area. The nut is what keeps the wedge from falling out which is not likely because of the tight fit.

 

Okay, I got the stud out by grinding it and now the stub is stuck inside the shifter! I've tapped it and that transitioned to beating on it and it is stuck. The tapered bolt is completely out and the shifter is on the bench. Any ideas?

 

You must have a Bubba mobile.

The stub slides into the shifter shaft. It's not even a press fit.
Inside of the shifter shaft there is what's like a wood-ruff key that
guides the stub into the shifter shaft.

First picture shows the stub separated from the shifter.
Arrow points to the slot in the stub that is keyed with the wood-ruff key.
2nd picture shows the key inside the shifter.

So the stub pulls straight out of the shaft. You can not twist or turn the stub
because of the key.

Good luck with your mission.

 

Thank you for the pictures, however it is still stuck and I have no idea why. The notched part of the stub where the key is is about a quarter inch down from the shifter, and the key is in that hole, so it's not a hole if that makes sense. Any ideas on what's going on? It is stuck.

 

I'll post a picture in a minute of what a seated stub looks like so you have an idea how far the stub is pushed into the shifter lever. Only thing I can think of is Bubba didn't know how to remove the wedged shaft and that's why he stripped the nut or threads.

Could be the stub is glued into the shifter lever.


What side was the spinning nut on, driverside or passengerside of the wedged shaft ?

Can you post a picture?