So at first my turn signal cam would not manually cancel the turn signals. So I take out the old ones and put in the new, and now the switch does cancel but... I DONT HAVE TURN SIGNALS! anyone know what gives?

 

Hey guys i'm going to go ahead and bump this because I have no idea where to start and I need a direction to head for tomorrow

 

Check your wiring.

 

Check my wiring? Where at?

 

Check the working in the steering column. Make sure you have voltage at the switch. Check fuses.

 

I don't really have anything to add, other than I feel your pain. I've been trying to chase down why my turn signals aren't working either. I hate not having working turn signals and making a left turn where there isn't a turn lane.

Are you sure your turn signal switch is actually good?

 

The turn signals worked before I pulled the cancel cam. I can't figure out what change from now to the except the cam irself

 

What are the "old ones"? What exactly did you replace? Your post makes it sound like you replaced the bulbs. Are you talking about the switch? Please describe exactly what you did. Your post is not clear.

No way, really?

 

I replaced the little plastic cam piece that cancels out the turn signals, inside of the steering column. Before, the old one was broke in several places, but the turn signals at least activated. Now, the cam piece cancels the turn signals out, but I have no turn signals activating.

With the hazards on all the turn signals are blinking and it shows up on the dash. I have replaced turn signal bulbs a little while back as well.

 

To be very candid with you, you need to avoid cam replacement kits at all costs. They require you to slide a butt splice or solder joint into a very tight space. This also changes the effective length of the wiring in an area where there is little room for error and easy to get things pinched. This is likely to be your problem. The appropriate solution is to replace the turn signal switch entirely.

Check BOTH sides of the turn signal fuse just to be safe, but what you're working with is ultimately a hack with a marginal success rate that should be gotten rid of regardless.

 

I soldiered in the the wires well. I figured since the part was removable, and only the cam was the problem, it was not a problem to switch them out. If there is no way to go ahead and fix how it set up, A bigger hack will have to be installed until I can save up the 60 needed for a actual new switch assembly.

My dad just sent me a text saying he sparked my gauge cluster wires while he was fooling around in my truck this weekend, so I shall check the fuses tonight.

Just because I'm new to all of this FMC400, on a scale of 1-10, 10 being the worst, how bad is it to replace the cam rather than the switch?

 

I would say it's a 10 out of 10. Unfortunately, even the best of solder joints can still be problematic, because you're placing on the order of 3/4 inch of non-flexible conductor in an area where space and flexibility is critical. This also places added stress where the wire exits the joint. The all-metal column is also an unfortunate area to rely on shrink wrap as an insulator since it's easy to leave a spur on a solder joint if you're not cautious.

If you can make it work and save money at the same time, great, but that's not usually the case with this particular repair. If you have power on both sides of the fuse, it's time to pop the wheel and pull things out to see what's what. Companies make the cam kit because they'd rather get your $10 rather than someone else get your $80.

 

Well if I have power on both sides of the switch, I'm going to be sol for a while. I thought I was attempting to fix it correctly by taking the time to pull the wheel, solder the joint, etc. It may just have to be bypassed for a while for a 3 position switch until I have the money to put a new turn signal switch in

 

Should both sides of the turn signal cam have power?

 

My instructions call for checking power on both sides of the fuse. I'm confused why power as it is distributed in the switch is being brought up at this point. The cam itself should have a pair of leads as well as a set of whiskers that control where the point downstream of the flasher is pulled to ground through the bulbs once the lever is engaged. There aren't "sides."