87 F150 Starter will not disengauge!
#1
87 F150 Starter will not disengauge!
Okay guys I hoping someone on here has some insight for me on my current problem. I have searched and searched through many threads and am still stuck.
So a few days ago I had some bad grinding noises upon starting the truck. They got progressively worse so I pulled off my starter to check things out. Lots of metal shavings on and around the flywheel and the teeth on the starter gear were decently worn. No problem, easy fix.
So I go down to the wrecker and grab a new starter and throw it in. When i start up the truck the starter will not stop running. Thinking defective starter I grab a different one and throw it in. Still same problem. Tried changing the fender mounted ignition relay [solenoid] and still no change. Double checked my wiring and everything is wired up as it should be.
What I think is happening is that the stater gear is not releasing from the flywheel after the engine is started up. The starter continues to run even after I have pulled off the ignition switch wire from the top post of the solenoid.Does anyone know if the starters are different sizes on a manual vs a automatic [my truck is a 4spd]? I did not pay much attention to the the bronco that I pulled the starter off. It was a '90 bronco. My starter looked exactly the same as the new one I pulled off.
Any thoughts anyone? Truck is a 87 4.9L 4spd
So a few days ago I had some bad grinding noises upon starting the truck. They got progressively worse so I pulled off my starter to check things out. Lots of metal shavings on and around the flywheel and the teeth on the starter gear were decently worn. No problem, easy fix.
So I go down to the wrecker and grab a new starter and throw it in. When i start up the truck the starter will not stop running. Thinking defective starter I grab a different one and throw it in. Still same problem. Tried changing the fender mounted ignition relay [solenoid] and still no change. Double checked my wiring and everything is wired up as it should be.
What I think is happening is that the stater gear is not releasing from the flywheel after the engine is started up. The starter continues to run even after I have pulled off the ignition switch wire from the top post of the solenoid.Does anyone know if the starters are different sizes on a manual vs a automatic [my truck is a 4spd]? I did not pay much attention to the the bronco that I pulled the starter off. It was a '90 bronco. My starter looked exactly the same as the new one I pulled off.
Any thoughts anyone? Truck is a 87 4.9L 4spd
#2
The main question here is, is the battery still powering the starter? or is the starter drive still engaged in the flywheel and the starter being dragged along by the engine?
When you shut the engine off does the starter quit running also?
If you are still here, answer the question in the second paragraph and I will be back or start another post.
When you shut the engine off does the starter quit running also?
If you are still here, answer the question in the second paragraph and I will be back or start another post.
#3
Thanks for the quick reply! To answer your question the starter stops when I shut off the engine. I will be taking a look at her first thing tom morn. I will be pulling out my multimeter and checking if the starter is still being powered after startup. Also Im going to call my local parts store to see if the starters are different in a auto vs a manual.
#4
Well if the starter stops when you shut the engine off, the starter drive is not releasing from the flywheel plain and simple. End of story. Disregard the rest. BUT
If the starter continues to run after you shut the engine off, the starter is getting power from the battery through the one and only large cable hooked onto the starter, obviously. You unhooked the small wire coming from the ignition switch, so that wasn't the defective part. You replaced the solenoid on the fender and that didn't fix it, but the power to the starter must go through the solenoid to get to the starter from the battery.
Moral of the story: your replacement solenoid was also defective, or you got some of the wires on the wrong post on the solenoid. (I know you said you checked he wiring on the solenoid).
If the starter continues to run after you shut the engine off, the starter is getting power from the battery through the one and only large cable hooked onto the starter, obviously. You unhooked the small wire coming from the ignition switch, so that wasn't the defective part. You replaced the solenoid on the fender and that didn't fix it, but the power to the starter must go through the solenoid to get to the starter from the battery.
Moral of the story: your replacement solenoid was also defective, or you got some of the wires on the wrong post on the solenoid. (I know you said you checked he wiring on the solenoid).
#5
Thanks for the quick reply! To answer your question the starter stops when I shut off the engine. I will be taking a look at her first thing tom morn. I will be pulling out my multimeter and checking if the starter is still being powered after startup. Also Im going to call my local parts store to see if the starters are different in a auto vs a manual.
#7
The teeth are different, I learned that one the hard way, pretty light show however, just not as impressive to watch as a GM Alternator losing its mind.
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#8
When I changed my starter with a NAPA replacement, there was a note in the box that said something to this effect: "The thrust surfaces on the crankshafts of these trucks are known to wear, causing too much end play in the crankshaft. If you don't want to rebuild the engine like you should (lol), Ford makes a starter shim with part numbers XYZ to keep the starter from grinding against the flywheel."
#9
So I just want to thank everyone for the info. Long story short the starter for an auto and a manual are different [I learnt this the hard way, 3 starters later]. On a auto the starter gear teeth stick out farther on the nose of the starter whereas a manual the gear sits pretty much recessed into the starter. After looking in the boneyard for a useable starter I eventually cracked and went to the local parts store and got a rebuilt one. Threw her in and she started right up with no issues. BUT.....
This morning I started her up and the starter would not disengage after turning the truck off. Had to pull the battery cable off! After pulling out a good chunk of hair I pulled the ignition switch wire off the fender solenoid and reconnected the battery. Started her up and no problems. After driving around all day today with multiple starts I have not experienced the problem. I will be keeping an extra solenoid in my truck just in case it comes up again. But long story short my truck is back in action.
This morning I started her up and the starter would not disengage after turning the truck off. Had to pull the battery cable off! After pulling out a good chunk of hair I pulled the ignition switch wire off the fender solenoid and reconnected the battery. Started her up and no problems. After driving around all day today with multiple starts I have not experienced the problem. I will be keeping an extra solenoid in my truck just in case it comes up again. But long story short my truck is back in action.
#10
An 87' in the great white north? as in subject to heavy road salt on the roads great white north?
If so Look at the wiring harness on top of the drivers side inner fender down under the brake booster area, the casing on the wires corrodes back over time from the connector on both sides. This exposes as much as an inch of bare conductor allowing them to touch each other resulting in cross connection of circuits passing through it.
If find its a problem best bet is to cut out the connector solder in jumper wires around it covering joints with heat shrink tubing, its an easier cheaper and faster option over replacing the harness as a unit.
If so Look at the wiring harness on top of the drivers side inner fender down under the brake booster area, the casing on the wires corrodes back over time from the connector on both sides. This exposes as much as an inch of bare conductor allowing them to touch each other resulting in cross connection of circuits passing through it.
If find its a problem best bet is to cut out the connector solder in jumper wires around it covering joints with heat shrink tubing, its an easier cheaper and faster option over replacing the harness as a unit.
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heavy_d
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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03-21-2014 12:21 AM