It takes a week to get larger parts. I am sure Napa would have a new Coil in stock. But I am concerned if my Pick up in my dizzy has failed, ordering a new one would take at least two weeks.

I do have a parts truck, that I have already used 80% of it keeping this one operating. the dizzy off my parts truck came out of a 351, I have a 302 block. I was warned that it might not work. the 351 has a different firing order

 

The distributor from your 302 engine will not physically fit in the 351. You could disassemble both and swap in the PIP sensor from the 302 into the 351. But wholesale swapping of complete assemblies is not going to work.

 

The video was for a remote mounted ICM and they were getting the reading between the PIP sensor and the ICM.
Your ICM is mounted on the side of the distributor.
I know the PIP path is a "T" inside your ICM with one path to the Computer and the other going into the ICM. So the circuit should be the same as an remote mounted ICM. That said I would think something is pulling the voltage low if you have good connections.
When you do not have spark unplug the Computer and crank the engine and see if spark returns. If it does then the problem is with the Computer and not the PIP sensor or the ICM. The voltage may also return with the Computer unplugged.

Here is a diagram of your Ignition system:


/

 

your photo say the #5 wire is coil, I have 12voltes at #5 KOEO
KOEO wire voltage at my ICM plugged in the my dizzy
wire #1) 0.6v
wire #2) 12.v
wire #3) 0.8mv
wire #4) 12.v
wire #6) 12.v
wire #6) 4.v

so most likely it could be my coil?

 

I think I will give that a try, I just have to figure out how to take it apart.

FYI the working engine is the 302 the parts engine is the 351

 

What a minute! Is the TFI the same as the ICM?

 

Sorry to confuse the donor engine and the one in the truck. In either case the PIP sensor will interchange but not the entire distributor assemblies.

 

TFI is same as the Ignition Control Module (ICM). It's just a different acronym.

 

Right on thank you

 

TFI is a design of how a electronics device is manufactured.
The TFI applies to how a lot of different devices are manufactured, this is used in cell phones for an example.

A ICM is a device that operates the Ignition Coil.

ICM: Ignition Control Module
TFI: Thick Film Integrated, sometimes wrongly called Thick Film Ignition.

 

I take it the numbers are from top to bottom in the diagram above.
Top
#1 PIP Should be about 8-10 Volts DC with the key on, You have 0.6Volts, shorted to ground by ICM or Computer.
#2 SPOUT, Maybe OK as it should go high when the Computer sees the PIP go high.
#3 Start, Should be Zero with the key not in the start position. This is OK Voltage.
#4 Ignition Power, Should be 12V with the key on. This is OK Voltage.
#5 Coil - Should be 12V with the key on. This is OK Voltage.
#6 Ignition Ground inside the distributor, BAD ground, should be Zero Volts.



/

 

having my voltage information for my TFI/ICM; what do you believe could be malfunctioning. I do have a new ECM/ECU replacement on its way.

some history: Danr1 helped my find my original problem, finding that my ECM/ECU had corroded tads inside my ECM/ECU giving a negative ground to my TPS and MAP sensors. Danr1 said I could have new ones soldered back on, but the guy that could do this was on the opposite side of the island. decided to order ECM/ECU from Napa that came from California. the replacement ECM/ECU from Napa; it came in bad shape and damaged. I installed the replacement ECM/ECU anyway, and checked my voltage all the pervious issues where gone, my truck started, idled and ran great, I was so happy to get my truck back.

during test drives I had noticed: running different with sluggish power. you know when you reach a certain RPM you get a power boost before shifting gears. I was not getting this with the new ECM/ECU I would have to WOT (wide open throttle) to get the power bust to kick in, but only last for just one or two seconds.

I might have put around 32 miles on the replaced ECM/ECU before my truck died on the road. I took my ICM/TFI off had it tested at Napa, it was fried Napa replaced it. After installing the replaced ICM/TFI truck started but only for up to two minutest.

I tried to get codes but the code numbers where giving me E4OD codes 52-52-49-51- then the next row of numbers 52-52-1-1-4-41-49-5-. I checked the ECM/ECU numbers to check to see if I had the wrong one F1TF-12A650-AZA G they matched.

with this information can you make an educated guess, what the issue might be?

 

This computer you bought new? used? remanufactured?

If used or reman and sounds like it might be, did you take the cover off verify its in better shape than your original?

If reman and has a seal on it don't cut it to look, doing so would void your warranty it wouldn't be worth it to look.

 

Did you try unplugging the ECM/ECU and cranking it to see if you have spark as noted in my above post?

If so also what are the voltages with the ECM/ECU unplugged at the ICM with the engine not cranking?

Did you get spark with the ECM/ECU unplugged while cranking the engine?

 

Used,

I did remove the cover and found it had new tabs soldered in to the board, also missing a clip on the side.

there was no seal on it. where the reprograming plug "is exposed"

I have photo I will try to up link it