I have a 2001 E250 with the 5.4L V8 Triton engine. My check engine light came on and the code indicates a misfire on cylinder #8. I removed the doghouse and noticed that the coil pack is underneath some things. Before I start removing things I want to know what absolutely has to be removed to get that cop out and get to the plug. Any help would be appreciated.

 

That is indeed in a tough spot. Its not as hard that hard or impossible to access it without removing anything, believe it or not.

I use several 3/8" drive extensions on the plug socket--in this case longer is better because its almost a straight shot onto that particular plug when viewed from overhead and a bit higher up than we can see in the engine bay.

With just a small bit of experimenting with various extensions and perhaps a universal joint you'll be able to remove and install that plug fairly easily.

I've owned a '97 E250 same motor, currently own both an '00 and '03 E250 same motor---each with plug changes without removing anything.

Don't give up so easily---get back in there with a selection of tools and work through it------it'll happen, I promise you!

 

I will. It just seems like that rail is in the way of getting the coil pack and boot out. I also see a couple of hoses that look like they require a specialty to to remove. I guess you are saying remove the 7 mm and wiggle wiggle wiggle.

 

In my van it seems like the fire wall might prevent long extensions.

 

Yep---pretty much it! I you have a good selection of 3/8" extensions that range from 1", 3" and 6" the added depth of the plug socket gives you the length just above or below the fuel rails for removal/installation.

Long is a relative term for this procedure---long enough is all you need. I don't mean to be flippant but the ratchet has enough room under the top of the tunnel for your needs.

I've also used 1/4" drive extensions with a 3/8" adapter on either end or just use the 1/4" ratchet or handle.

Reinstalling that plug requires just a bit more patience when bringing up to torque----hoping you have the proper 3/8" drive torque wrench. If not you'll be a bit more challenged to fit something larger in there but its still not impossible----a bit of practice is all it takes.

Apologies for not better documenting or photographing the exact tools I've used---no real excuse other than "I forgot.............". One day someone will do this---would have to warm up out of the negative numbers before I'll do it though.

 

I understand. It was 2 degrees out yesterday. Maybe that is why I quickly departed from my attempt. I will try to get the coil out without having to remove the rail and will have plenty of extensions on hands. Thanks for your help and I will let you know how it works out.

 

Yeah I feel like a dolt for not better documenting my process---I know it would be extremely helpful to others.

Weather and time permitting I'll dig into my own this weekend and do a better job.

Anyone else reading here is more than welcome to add their own methods too---can't hurt that's for sure!

 

Got it out but I don't think the new coil pack is going to go in with the rail there. It is a bear. Oh and should that plug be wet with fuel since that coil pack was bad or do I have bigger issues?

 

Err if it came out why can't or won't the new one go back in? (Not being a smart azz mind you!)

Keep twisting, fumbling and cussing---the COP should drop in without the fuel rails being moved. You can loosen the bolt of the rear mounting tab and perhaps the fuel pressure regulator too but that should be it, at least as far as removing too much more. IF you raise the fuel rails MAKE SURE the O-rings into the injectors stay put---that's a surprise you DON'T want to experience on first start up post plug/COP change!

If your COP had failed completely in theory the plug electrode would be wet with fuel---no way for it to burn off without spark. At this point I'd say its nothing to worry about.

Once its all back together idle speed and a lack of an obvious miss would suggest all is well in #8. Driving will be the bigger test. If anything is still amiss your CEL should come on---read the codes for further diagnosis.

BTW what tool combo did you use to remove the plug?

 

The cop came out easily because it separated from the boot on removal. I final got the new one in but it was a chore. I used two extensions to get the plug out. Note to anyone trying this..please get a magnetic spark plug socket and extension. That space is tight and the socket will drop of the wrench in that tight space when trying to get it out. I finished last night and started it up but I haven't driven it yet. Idle seems to be low. Maybe it will work itself out after I drive it today. I will keep you posted.

 

Bumping this back to the top---I did a bit of research, took a few photos and posted a write-up of sorts to help the first timers for this chore.

 

Sorry I forgot to update you. Finally got the packs in. The code went away but van was still idling weird. I drove it a couple of days and now I have the P0401 code for egr valve. When driving I hear air. I am thinking I now have a vacuum leak somewhere. Any thoughts?