so my idi has been acting strange, when I start it my tach is jumping around between zero and one thousand rpms and not seadily staying anywhere, also when I rev it up I feel like its reading 1000 rpms lower than the engines revving at.

also ive noticed that my tach only jumps around when my door is open, when I close it it drops to zero at idle then will read what I think is 1000 rpms lower than my engine is at when I rev it up.

my oil pressute gauge also ticks a little while the engines running but I do think its working properly other than that. my battery light is also on all the time too. thanks for any help. I have checked my batteries and alternator while the engines running and they all read at 14.46volts

 

check the ground from the firewall to the block that will fix most gauge issues

 

So a ground from the wall between the engine and cab to the block of the engine? I've already checked the grounds from my batteries to the block and block to frame, are any of those the ground your talking about or are you talking about a different one?

 

yes its a different one it will go to the back of one of the heads

 

All my gauges acted super funny when my Voltage Regulator went bad. Turned out the voltage was too high and all the electrical was malfunctioning. I'd say your voltage is getting up there, so replacing the external VR might be a quick thing to do.

 

Ok, do you know approximately where it Is and what it looks like?

 

Rather than just replacing the VR, take a volt meter to your battery when you start up truck and see what it says. If it jumps around or is higher than 14.5 volts, that indicates something in electrical is not working right. Bad ground, bad VR, bad alternator, will require more diagnosis to figure out what it is.

 

^^^^That. ALWAYS diagnoses before tossing parts at a problem.

Ignore the circles, the square silver box between the circles is the voltage regulator.

 

Ok thanks, I have already tested my batteries and I have 14.5 volts on both batteries and the alternator while its running

 

What should I be testing for on the voltage regulator? I checked the head to firewall ground it looked fine no corrosion. I never mentioned this earlier but my done light wouldn't turn of f about three months ago so I just pulled the bulb out, not sure if that could be related probly not tho

 

I think 14.5 is a bit high at idle, even high for a high RPM's. While I agree that throwing parts at something is usually useless, a new VR is only 6 or 8 bucks. And then you can rule that out. You can find these at your typical AutoZoo, or just get a cheap one off of RockAuto.



Link: More Information for AIRTEX / WELLS 5K7

Install the new VR and drive around for a half hour, then redo the voltage tests. I bet your idle voltage will be around 13.5V at idle, which is more normal.

The dome light sounds like a different issue, because if you had a faulty ground that was a draw on the battery, then you'd be running into low batteries instead of constant 14.5 voltages.

 

Well I do forsure have a small draw on my batteries, I have negative post shut off switches cuz if I don't use them after about a week of no running the batteries will be dead

 

so I got a new voltage regulator and put it in today and fired the truck up, truck took awhile longer than usual to start, im thinking I might still have a very small air leak in fuel lines, I redid them about a month ago and havnt had any problems but I havnt started it for about 9 days so I think it may have slowly let the fuel back into the tank.

anyways my volt, temp and oil pressure gauges all work now. I didn't get a chance to drive it around the block but I let it idle with a few rpm raises for abut 20 mins. and the temp slowly climbed to about 1/4 of the way up which I think is accurate, my oil pressure gauge came up too but it seemed like it said it was kind of low when idling but would raise up a but if I hit the throttle and stayed on it for a bit, this normal? I do have some leaking oil but just very small seeps.

my battery gauge definitely worked, I could see that it moved up a tiny bit from where it was when I had the keys just turned forward before starting by the time I had shut it off, and I know they were a little low when it first started, probly why it took a while to start(wasn't turning over quick enough). my battery gauge is still fluctuating when my glow plug relay is doing its thing. and it also moves when my wipers attempt to move(they barely work, don't know whats wrong). voltage gauge also moves when I turn the lights on and when I switch from low to high beam. my tach is still being a pos so I will try and find a new tach sensor and see if that helps. anyone have a parts number? thanks for any feedback

 

So ive got some more questions, my wipers are not working right now, I've spent the last two days reading up on the wiper control module problems and I've removed it svc the switch from ny truck and I tried soldering all the connections inside of it but it didnt help, my wipers work great for about twenty seconds then start being jumpy and barely move.

For the twenty seconds it's working good I cab hear asmall clicking from the actual switch about every second or two. Then when they get really bad and Barrely move I can hear a much louder clicking noise coming from the module. Im thinking both my module and my switch are screwed up? Anyone able to tell me if in headin in the right direction?

 

so I whent to the scrappers yesterday to try and find a wiper regulator to swap into my truck, so I drove 40 mins to a scrapyard that told me over the phone that they had 15 trucks in the years I was looking for and I show up and they had 1. It was completely gutted no engine or tranny or box, most windows were gone and so was the governer. but there was the gauge cluster still in there, so I picked it up just to see if maybe it was my rpm gauge that wasn't working.

got it for 10 bucks and brought it home and switched my gauges that I know worked onto it but left the my old tach out of it and kept the one I got with it in, also I never mentioned the back of my old cluster was burnt up and my gas gauge didn't work. well I plugged the new one in and the tach worked great, closer inspection of my old one and it looks like there was a part burned up in the corner of the computer. my fuel gauge is now working also which is great. the one thing that's not working though is my oil pressure. I know the gauge works ive tested it so im pretty sure its the sensor. can anyone tell me where its located? please give me some feedback havnt had much as of late