On Edit: I guess I'll be going with the 203* form Diesel Site unless someone can tell me this is a bad idea. It seems all of my reading is telling me the 7.3 was designed and operates better under the 203* temps. Diesel is more efficiently burned when hotter, so it makes sense. Input?

 

personally, I'm skeptical of that 203 tstat. International and Ford downgraded from the 203 to the 190 (or 180) in some cases for a reason. I don't know for sure what that reason is, but I would bet it has something to do with engine life or something that would be cost/image related to them - isnt' that the reason big companies to anything.

anyway, I don't know the part number off hand, but if you just go on rockauto or to your local parts store, they should be able to get you a stock motorcraft one pretty easily. I think Riffraff may sell them too, though don't quote me on that.

and yes, its in upper neck on the water pump. take a look before you dig into it though, if that neck is pretty rusty (as they tend to get), you may want to get a new one of those as well. also, hit 3 three hold-down screws with some PB Blaster (or equivalent) for several days ahead of time. they get pretty corroded in there and you don't want to snap one off in the water pump. I also recall the back one being a pain to get to, but its been a while since I did mine. it might just need a really long extension...

 

My truck is the same way Byron. I hardly ever pass the N. I havent hauled much at highway speeds but pulling the Siskiyous doesnt make it move it all.

 

Noted on all the above. I hope being a California truck, it won't be too bad. It looks good other that peeling paint from years of heat. I did go with the 203*. After a lot of reading, it seems to be a good way to go. I am getting both thermostats, so if the 203* doesn't seem like a good thing, I'll just change it out. I'll let you know how it goes JP. I am the same way Rick. I'll be curious to see what happens on my trip next week with mileage after the new uppies and this thermostat. I'll keep the other 180* with me in case i don't like the performance of the 203*. I can just change it out at a truckstop if I have to.

 

Not a typo...
My 2000 psd has the two batteries under the hood, and one mounted outboard of the frame rail up inside the rear quarter panel. I have 00ga wire from the front to the back for my electric winch, and my trailers. When I hook onto my trailer and plug it in, I have 4 batteries total (3 in the truck and one dedicated to the trailer)
I use the Anderson style (elec forklift plugs) with a 175a rating.
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I have a set of plugs on front and rear bumper, on my 9k and 12k warn winchs, and all my trailers that are setup for a winch as well as a heavy duty set of long jumper cables. It's a freakin badass setup. With the ford idle/charge/pto module thing, my batteries are always up.

Brad, with as much towing and work you do with your truck, I highly recommend you doing this.

 

so my wife took the plastic cover off the block heater plug and the round prong broke off.
is it ok to still use?
-8 .....no start. batts suck

 

go for it. if you have it plugged into a GFI, you won't get the GFI protection, but if you haven't tripped the GFI during previous usage, you're probably fine.

you can cut the cord in the middle and solder on a new outdoor rated end - definitely not a job for this time of year in MA, though...

 

yeah, I'm definitely curious if you notice a difference. I'd say a 30 min warmup time is a little on the high end for what these trucks should be with a functioning thermostat. like I said, in everything but winter, my truck is up to temp in 15 mins pretty consistently.

now, assuming your temp sender, meter and ground are working accurately, I'd guess you're 203 tstat will put you solidly in the "R" range or maybe even "M". when I first got my new truck, I was afraid it was overheating when it shot right up to the O and beyond on my test drive. it did the typical thermostat-opening tick backward though and then settled right in between the O and R, though, so I figured it was just a 190 or even 203 vs a colder one in my old truck.

i will say that not all temp gauges are the same - I had a slightly bad ground for my gauge cluster on my old truck, and when I fixed it my temp readings shifted about half a letter to the right - i.e. if the normal operating temp was the low side of the O with the bad ground (like 10 ohms resistance or something), it went up to the high side of the O afterward. small change, but noticeable for sure.

 

That's the ground, just like any other AC plug. It will run the heater without it, but it would be safer to splice in a new plug, when weather permits. Meanwhile, you need batteries that don't suck.

 

thanks guys...got 3 trucks that batts suck
X6 $$$$$$$..yeeehawww
like u said when weather permits!

 

Maybe you can get a case discount?

 

only 3?
i have 6 trucks and 5 cars.
only one would start this morning.

 

The truck has 2 batteries and the trailer has 2. Next I am going to need a second alternator to charge them

 

What type of connection do you use from trailer to the truck for the batteries.
I have 10ga wire from battery to the power source of the 7pin trailer plug, but that's not enough when I'm using my 12k winch.
I've wanted to put the dual alternators on my psd, the superduty has a second alternator control wire so the ecu can control the charge rate/load of each alternator. But the block bracket is tricky to find when I have the money.
I got a 200amp alt so I'm not too concerned about it right now, I want a York compressor more than a 2nd alt.

 

OBS PSD ambulances have a bigger alternator (that must be what you have, eh?). But since our PCMs don't control the alternator, you'd be sorta on your own wrt. controls running duals.