Camper special or a big block radiator ought to work fine. I used a big block one in mine.

 

Yep, he's right ^. I only went with the aluminum one because I got a great deal on it. As far as the lift goes, I understand what you're saying about just wanting it lifted as much as it needs to be. I guess you could wait on the lifts, I'm just not sure if the oil pan or filter will hit on the front diff/axle if you don't lift it first. I suppose it depends how high you mount the engine really. What I would do if I were you is get the truck in the shop and right before you tear into it, undo the front ubolts and jack the frame up 2 more inches from the axle and put it on jackstands. That way, you'll basically be at the same height as being lifted 4 inches (due to the 2 inch blocks already in there). Then I'd get the motor in the truck and then you can take it off the jackstands and see how big/small the lift should be, depending on how much the clearances are between the oil pan/filter.

I'm not sure how much sense that makes when typed out, let me know if you need clarification on any of it. This is the only good way I can think of to only do the minimum required lift.

 

My 78F-250 has a 4 inch and sits on 37"TSL SSR's and its rim about the rocker.

The HD rad is hard to find and spendy that's what I have and works great.

 

Yours is 2 wheel drive? I read your build if I'm thinking of the right truck.

Pics are always helpful to me! :-)

 

Anyone else have a idi with a close setup to what I'm looking at?

 

bump for any more info that might not be in here? All info appriciated!!

 

I stuffed mine as far back as possible, so i needed the 2" body lift, which i already had to accomodate the supercab on the single cab frame. Im pretty sure you can do it with no BL especially if using the C6, just have to set to engine as low as possible. On my 79 this was easy, not sure if the later 250s still use the narrow frame... cant remember, but i think theyre the same as the 350 frame. Does yours have 2.5" or 3" wide springs up front? I built some factory style (79) motor mount towers and used the 7.3 mounts. Mine had the 400 super cooler and cools fine in most conditions without a fan (i definately suggest a fan though, probably e-fan, that way you dont have to fab a shroud). The biggest issue i ran into was tunnel clearance for the ZF and the oil filter only had about 2" clearance from the D60. So i had to lift or relocate the filter, i lifted. If going 4x4, the 1356 is a bitch to fit in the frame, i opted to keep the 205, grind a recession in the trans adapter for the shift rail and youre good to go. Also, pay attention to frame clearance around the starter, it can be done so that the starter will come out without notching the frame, but its a PITA. Sorry but the few pics i had are gone. Only real bit of advice i have, dont try to do this in a weekend, especially in January when its -10* and youre doing it outside.

 

"Yours is 2 wheel drive? I read your build if I'm thinking of the right truck.

Pics are always helpful to me"

...I have 2 78's one is a 2x with a diesel and the other is a 4x F-250 monster with a 460 gasser.

 

Mine is 4 wheel drive 79 f250 .

 

My 78 F 250 has a 4 inch super lift and no body lift 37" SSRs and they are a true 37 inch tire some like BFGs say 35s but only measure 33.

 

Very nice truck!

 

Thanks it doesn't look that nice anymore needs paint and a diesel it gets 6mpg 460 need less to say its been parked for years now.

 

Good, going to hopefully pick one up this week. I think the one on my 400 was not a big block radiator, and it is leaking anyway....

 

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Here is the start, that will be in tonight, Performance Inc out of Sparta Mo. Is doing it. The owner is a member here.

 

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Performance Inc is doing the install. They will be doing the motor mounts tonight.