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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis SPONSORED BY:

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  #1  
Old 01-04-2014, 08:06 PM
lionsntigers lionsntigers is offline
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Got Me Worried!!

This is my 1st post, not including my intro post earlier today. I have to say, after reading all the posts about the 6.4, I'm wondering if I've made a grave mistake by purchasing my 2008 F250 Harley Davidson 105th Anniversary Edition truck.

For 2 years or so, I've researched (I thought) the Ford diesel engines enough to figure out that it was AOK to purchase a 6.4 platform..and to shy away from the 6.0..and if possible to find a low mileage 7.3, that would be the ideal situation..so I finally came across an HD Edition that I really liked - enough to trade my lifted Jeep Wrangler 4-door for..so here I am, planning on a long trip from central FLA to the west coast in early March, with 2 motorcycles in tow in my newly purchased enclosed Harley hauler behind my big Ford diesel..but now I'm worried big time..from the sound of things, I may or may not make it to the west coast and back without major hiccups along the way..

So far I've had ZERO issues with the truck..it had 99,000 miles on it when I bought it and I've put about 3K miles on it..the only thing that isn't correct with it (to the best of my knowledge) is that the cruise control doesn't work..and I read in this forum that a non-working cruise control may be related to a turbo issue?

Questions:
1. Should I immediately install an EGR Delete kit on my truck?
2. Is there anything this forum would recommend that I do, other than having Ford check it out and give it a 100K checkup, in order to maximize my chances of having an enjoyable cross-country trip? Thanks in advance.
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  #2  
Old 01-04-2014, 08:26 PM
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reaganla reaganla is offline
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David Reagan
IMO delete the egr and the dpf/cat and add a tuner that allows for delete.. there are a few options out there. I also would recommend a cold air intake. You mileage and towing will improve.

I have all of the above on mine since 75000 and I'm currently at 2667++ and my mpgs are 14/22 avg hand calculated

Also I recommend maintenance
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  #3  
Old 01-04-2014, 08:28 PM
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Remember that most posters come here because they have a problem, and thus the problems are mostly what you read about, not the majority with no issues.

Here are my standard recommendations for the 6.4 to help stay out of trouble:

The 6.4 does not typically "self destruct", in many cases it is aided in destructing by operator who do not understand the requirements of the new emissions controlled diesels and use them for the wrong type of service, neglect maintenance, etc. Properly operated and maintained the 6.4 and other emissions controlled diesels do just fine.

Now if you are looking at a used one, you have to be concerned about it's useage and maintenance prior to your purchase. Unlike pre-emissions diesels the post-emissions diesels can go bad very quickly if they are neglected or are used for all short trips.

The problem with assessing a used post-emissions diesel is that much of what you want to inspect is not readily visible. On the 6.4 you would ideally want to inspect the following:

- Lower HFCM fuel filter and housing for signs of gunk buildup, and to ensure the filters have been changed.

- Upper fuel filter, looking in the bottom of the housing for signs of rust spots or metal flakes both of which can mean expensive fuel system repairs.

- The water pump back housing for signs of cavitation damage.

- Coolant nitrite test to see if the coolant has been maintained properly.

- Used oil analysis on a sample with ~5k miles on it.

- Check for signs of leaks at the radiator hose connections and the radiator itself.

Since a used vehicle at a dealer has probably recieved a basic service with new oil and filters, some of the information you want will not be available at all.
Clearly the water pump housing can not be inspected in any reasonable fashion. The lower HFCM filter and housing can't be inspected without draining a quart plus of fuel and making a mess so it's not easily inspected.
The upper fuel filter can be inspected fairly easily with a flashlight, wrench and a container to rest the filter in when removed. This is one inspection you should absolutely do since a high pressure fuel pump and injectors is a good $8k repair.
The coolant nitrite test is another quick and easy test you can do, clip a test strip on the end of a long hemostat and just dunk it in the coolant degas tank, wait the 45 seconds and compare the color chart. Most dealers probably won't change the coolant on a used truck so it your nitrite test shows under 300ppm nitrite, reject the truck for neglected maintenance.

My standard maintenance recommendations for the 6.4:

If you have not owned one of the newer emissions controlled diesels previously (any brand), be aware that they are far more dependent on proper maintenance than earlier diesels.

Key 6.4 maintenance items:

* Oil changes every 5,000 miles, with quality oil (synthetic recommended), used oil analysis (Blackstone) for every change. Use only Motorcraft oil filters or the Racor (OEM) equivalent.

* Fuel filter changes every 10,000 miles. Use only Motorcraft FD4617 or the Racor (OEM) equivalent filters.

* Coolant nitrite testing at least every 15,000 miles. I recommend every 5,000 miles at the same time you do the oil change for simplicity, the test strips are inexpensive. Do not be confused by the test directions warning not to sample from an overflow tank, the 6.4 does not have an overflow tank it has a degas bottle. The degas bottle is part of the coolant loop with constant circulation so it is a valid testing point. I do not bother "taking a sample", I simply clip the test strip on the end of a long hemostat and dunk it in the degas bottle to test. If the test is below 800ppm and above 300ppm add two bottles of VC-8 additive. If below 300ppm the entire coolant system must be flushed with VC-9 cleaner, rinsed well and refilled with new coolant.

* Cooling system flush with VC-9 and refill with Ford Gold coolant every 60,000 miles, sooner if you have neglected testing and the nitrite is under 300ppm.

* Use a quality fuel conditioner such as the Ford PM-22a/23a conditioners at every fueling. They add lubricity to the fuel, something that ULSD is lacking in which helps protect the high pressure (up to 26,000 PSI) fuel pump. They also help to reduce soot production which results in less frequent DPF regens and less fuel dilution in the engine oil.

* Drain the HFCM water separator monthly. The fuel drained can be poured back into the tank carefully leaving behind any water at the bottom of the collection jar (normally very little). If the water separator drain does not flow well or at all, it may be clogged with either parafin blobs or with bacterial growth. In either case at a minimum the drain valve cover needs to be removed and the clog cleared. If the clog is significant the HFCM cover needs to be removed for full cleaning. If the clog is white and waxy it's parafin and not a significant issue. If the clog is brown or similar and more slimy it is bacterial growth and the fuel tank should be "shocked" with a biocide such as Power Service Bio-Kleen which should not be confused with their Diesel-Kleen.

* The truck should not be used for all short trips and stop and go traffic. The 6.4 and other emissions controlled diesels need regular longer periods at highway speeds to allow proper DPF regeneration and to get to proper operating temperature to help reduce fuel contamination in the engine oil.

* The latest PCM flash (11B23) does not provide continuous indication of when a DPF regen is taking place, it does however add much improved engine monitoring for developing issues. Over time you will get to recognize the subtle changes, but I recommend adding something like the ScanGauge II which will allow you to monitor the DPF temperature which is a clear indication that a regen is in progress when over ~600F.

* Avoid shutting the truck down with a regen in progress. If you have to, run the engine at high idle for a few minutes in park before shutting down to allow the turbos to cool down to normal temperatures before shutdown. If you are interrupting the regens you will see it in your Blackstone report, otherwise you should see very little fuel dilution, <1%.

You should also absolutely get the Ford ESP extended warranty, any repairs to the 6.4 are expensive and a single big repair can easily cover the cost of the ESP warranty. The coolant nitrite testing that many people overlook *is* in the owner's manual diesel supplement, so if you neglect it Ford can deny warranty coverage for resulting damage.

Other Super Duty maintenance items:

* Batteries - The batteries in these trucks are not the maintanence free / unmaintainable type, pop the caps to check and top up with distilled water periodically.

* Change transfer case fluid every 60,000 miles.

* Change rear differential fluid every 50,000 miles on DANA axles (F350 DRW and up).

* Change transmission fluid and filter every 60,000 miles on Torqshift transmissions (100k on manual transmissions). If you have the early Torqshift with the external filter the interval is much shorter.

Resources:

Coolant test strips - Buy the 4pk, not the bottle of 50, the strips have expiration dates and you'll only need <10 per year. Most dealer parts counters should have the test strips, NAPA has them, or order direct from Acustrip.
Ford Rotunda 328-2050

Used oil testing - Blackstone Labs, get the pre-paid 6pk of test kits to save a few bucks. You don't need the TBN option:
Order Now

Ford ESP extended warrantys - You can buy them online from real dealers, or use the online price from a real dealer to negotiate a better price from your local dealer. You absolutely want the ESP, while the 6.4 is not problematic as some claim as long as you maintain it properly, nearly any repair is big $ and one good one will cover the ESP cost:
Ford Extended Warranty | Genuine Ford ESP | Discounted Pricing

DPF, oil, coolant temp monitoring - ScangaugeII, you will need to program the X-gauge commands for the 6.4:
ScanGauge - Trip Computer + Digitial Gauges + ScanTools
Ford/Lincoln/Mercury Specific : Linear Logic : Home of the ScanGauge
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  #4  
Old 01-05-2014, 07:24 AM
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I traveled and towed heavy cross country in mine many times. I traded mine simply because I needed the DRW for the better ride (wife's back).

I miss the 6.4.

Do all your maintance and drive the truck. A good code scanner for the Ford codes can be help to check for that cruise control issue.

If you bought it at a dealer, was it noted upon buying it? Have them fix it for you.
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  #5  
Old 01-05-2014, 07:51 PM
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I bought an 08 6.4 about 18 months ago and had the same feeling. I found some paper work in the glove box and called the dealer that sold the truck and found out it was a one owner truck serviced by that dealer. That made it a little better. On my first trip pulling my boat I had a problem with it blowing white smoke. Took it to the local dealer and they found the CAC was leaking replaced it and installed the latest flash under warranty and the truck has been trouble free. It is stock . I have put about 10k on it and done the suggested maint. and one oil report.
I'm very happy with the truck.
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  #6  
Old 01-05-2014, 09:20 PM
lionsntigers lionsntigers is offline
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Thanks for the comforting message, Mayor!! You've lightened up my concern a bit..and I appreciate it..I"ll be even more relieved once I get the truck into the Ford dealership and have them give it a go over..sounds like you're truly enjoying your truck..and I look forward to having the same feeling!! Thanks again..
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  #7  
Old 01-06-2014, 07:16 PM
jlrFordFan jlrFordFan is offline
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I think that the biggest thing is pay attention to the maintenance schedule, and pay attention to the post by wp6529, its one of the most extensive and complete on this forum. While there are a lot of issues with the 6.4 that have you worried now that you're reading the forum, there are a lot of trouble free miles on a lot of trucks out there. Additionally, the 6.4, since coming on-line in 2007, is now a mature engine platform meaning there are quite a few trucks in the high mileage range and most of the issues that are encountered are well understood. All the chronic issues have been identified and for the most part resolutions put in place.

This truck will require a lot more attention than your Jeep, namely because it's a diesel, however with attention to normal maintenance it will go a lot farther and haul a heck of a lot more than the Wrangler. Oh and when you decide to trade up for another one it will have held the value a lot better too.

There are a lot of guys here on the forum who are "pro-modification" so you'll get quite few "+" opinions on the dpf delete. There are also quite a few who have stock trucks and have been happy.

Have a good trip in March.
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  #8  
Old 01-07-2014, 12:39 PM
lionsntigers lionsntigers is offline
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Thanks so much for your comments..I have to say, starting up this Ford when it's time to go somewhere brings a smile on my face..this is my first diesel..and I love the sound, the get up and go, the interior room, the looks - everything..I've always been one to not only keep up with maintenance schedules, but also to take it to the maker when it is time for said maintenance..

In researching diesel trucks, I've read on many occasions that 100K miles is just getting the engine broken in good..so I had no hesitation to make this purchase..since buying, I've not had a single problem or hint of a problem, except for the cruise control issue..I'll be taking it in pretty soon and I have the following list to accomplish:

1. Change Oil
2. Change fuel filter
3. Test coolant nitrite
4. Flush coolant system
5. Install ScanGauge II
6. Change transfer case fluid
7. Change rear differential fluid
8. Change transmission fluid and filter
9. Drain the HFCM water separator
10. Repair Cruise Control


If I'm missing anything that should be performed prior to an 8K mile roundtrip, I'd appreciate a heads up..thanks for the advice and information...
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  #9  
Old 01-07-2014, 01:11 PM
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Front diff is due to be changed at 100K and the fuel cooler as well.

Fuel cooler takes the same coolant as the radiator.
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Old 01-07-2014, 01:56 PM
lionsntigers lionsntigers is offline
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Given the above list, would anyone care to take a SWAG at what the cost will be to have it all done? I don't want to be blown away when I take it in...
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Old 01-07-2014, 02:05 PM
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I recently bought my 2009 and currently have just over 75,000 miles on it. I have put about 4000 miles on it so far. Towing a 8500lbs bumper pull trailer I got about 11 MPG with a lot of hills.....read mountain passes. I just got back from a 1700 mile trip unloaded. Much more comfortable than my 2002 F150 gas. This truck never downshifted.....even over the rocky mountain passes. The only way to know the truck was going up the pass is the TURBO boost went up. I averaged about 17.5MPG and my truck is bone stock. Not too bad for a 3/4 ton truck....
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Old 01-07-2014, 02:33 PM
lionsntigers lionsntigers is offline
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wow.. that's impressive, to say the least.. I'll probably be taking the southern rte, I-10/I-20/I-10/I-8 to Yuma, AZ the end of February.. and then north up to I-40 for the return trip (depending on weather condx).. not a lot of steep driving going out, and very little coming back..
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Old 01-07-2014, 07:30 PM
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My mileage is reading right from my "lie-ometer" right on the dash......
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Old 01-09-2014, 06:11 PM
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Lionsntigers, hi. Here is a suggestion that needs your undivided attention. Since you bought the truck from a Ford dealer at 99,000 miles I am going to suggest you see if they would back date you an ESP. The one really big downside to the modern diesel trucks is that when they break it can be very very very expensive. An ESP is somewhere around $2300 or so and well worth it for the piece of mind it will give you. Take it from a guy who went the other way and modified at the end of 5 years and has paid the price for that decision.
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigSky109 View Post
My mileage is reading right from my "lie-ometer" right on the dash......
You are aware that isnt the best/accurate way to get your actual mpg?
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Old 01-09-2014, 09:00 PM
 
 
 
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