Good evening everyone! I am in the middle of installing the disc brakes on my '56 f100. I have the speedway 5 x 5 1/2 deluxe kit (all components together). I got the bearing adapters on easily using the oven technique. The instructions say to replace the outer race and put in the new one that they include in the kit. I just wanted to see if everyone did that and make sure it's necessary, (that the rotors in the kit don't already have the "new" races).

Here is the bearing in the current race.



Here is the bearing in the "new" race.



The difference is minimal...but necessary right? I guess I was just trying/hoping to be lazy...

 

Appears you need to change it.

 

Dang! Thanks. So I guess it is supposed to sit up a little like that second picture?

 

Boy, it's hard to say from the pictures.... I thought it was clear-cut but maybe not. Can you take pics of the cone and the loose race away from the hub? It does look a little high. Bottom line, it needs to work on the spindle, can you assemble the hub onto the rotor (dry) and see how it stacks?

 

Yeah, I was just surprised at how close they were, so I wanted to see if it was really that big of a deal? A couple more angles. New race as it would be: Factory installed race:

I agree...I'll try a dry run tomorrow.

Thanks!

 

It's easy to pop out and in a new race, ALWAYS go with the matched set of bearings and race. Remember the weight of the truck is supported by the bearings. The bearings they use in the kit are different then the stock 90's rotors.

 

As Oldtimer said you must use the race that is matched to the bearing supplied in the kit.

 

Thanks for the help guys. I guess my main question was/is (and it's probably a stupid one) does a matched set have the bearing raised up out of the race a little bit? I just don't have the experience to know if the one in the rotor was already switched out since they are so close, I just a thought it would be more obvious. But I agree, probably best to follow the directions!

Thanks again.

 

I'm not sure what the answer to your question is, but you definitely need to put the new race in if you're using the new bearings.

 

Thanks. Yeah, I put the new races in, and I see now (I think) the answer to my question.

The old race - while the bearing "fit" in it..it went too far and so 1/4 inch or so of the bearing was hanging out of the bottom. With the new and correct race, the whole surface of the bearing was in the race.

Now I know!

Thanks everyone, I got it all together and on. I better savor the fresh looking rotors before they rust (I'm working in a driveway)!

 

They tend to stick out a little, like your second picture. Almost every rotor you can buy now has the races installed in them. They don't swap them for you, that's why you get the new bearing and race, if they where the same they would just sell the bearing (you can buy the bearing without the race from bearing companies) to save money.

 

I hate to bring this back up again... WHY do you have to run the new outer cone?

Of course I assembled the kit without doing the swap.... and I am wondering if it is truly worth doing? Are the angles different? OR is it just so the bearing is not flush with the race? What is the purpose of not having the full surface make contact? (Or is just the top of the bearing touching the surface, thus the deep stance?...


Anyways... Thanks in advance!

 

I'm not going to answer each question separately , you must use the race that is matched to the bearing for obvious reasons. The bearings are matched to the race. You will get away with the route you chose but the bearing will be short lived. If you don't change to the matched inner race I would suggest you join AAA you'll need them at the most in opportune time. Be prepared to replace your spindle also due to bearing failure.

 

I think it is worth doing as well. It was all a learning experience for me, but after I got the old outer race removed (wish I would have added that photo), it was obvious that the new bearing did not fit it well in the old race. It was hard to tell with the old race installed, but once you see it out and see how much of the actual bearing is not flush with the race at all (as you said, full surface is not making contact), you would want to correct it. Changing the race was not very difficult either, even though I had never done it before.

 

Thanks schuyle!

Signed up for AAA going on 12 years ago

Any tips on removing the race? Will take pictures to add to the thread just in case anyone else has the same question.