1983 - 2012 Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series models

95 Ranger 2.3 L low speed acceleration miss and hesitation

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  #16  
Old 02-07-2016, 08:54 AM
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I was in the act of solving it when something fell into the intake and got stuck in a piston. I think the problems was a vacuum leak(s). EGR is a culprit but the line for the evap canister was shot and bleeding in a lot of air. This hooks to a nipple coming off the bottom of the throttle body. You might also check your pcv line which hooks under the manifold. So there are at least two hidden hoses that can and will leak on an old truck that you can't get to without pulling the top half of the manifold. The engineer(s) who designed this engine were A-holes and did not think about maintenance. If you remove the top half of the manifold, make sure you don't drop a screw in there. It is easy to do.

Perry
 
  #17  
Old 03-28-2021, 02:54 AM
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I’m having same problem

Originally Posted by tomw
I thought primary are the exhaust valve side of the head, secondary, intake side. I do not know when they fire, but do not think they both fire at the same time.
I think the engine can run without the intake side being energized, but don't bet your paycheck on it.
You might want to check the coolant and air temp sensors. They cannot be proven 'liars' by the computer, so it takes their reported temperature values as real. That could lead to a too-lean condition when cold that ameliorates somewhat when warmed up, or to a too-rich condition overall.
I’m having the same issue, lol when it does finally get through the sputtering and popping it runs perfectly, almost reminds me of riding a motorcycle and the power band kicks in lololol
 
  #18  
Old 03-28-2021, 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by tomw
I thought primary are the exhaust valve side of the head, secondary, intake side. I do not know when they fire, but do not think they both fire at the same time.
I think the engine can run without the intake side being energized, but don't bet your paycheck on it.
You might want to check the coolant and air temp sensors. They cannot be proven 'liars' by the computer, so it takes their reported temperature values as real. That could lead to a too-lean condition when cold that ameliorates somewhat when warmed up, or to a too-rich condition overall.
Originally Posted by Dave Hudlin
I’m having the same issue, lol when it does finally get through the sputtering and popping it runs perfectly, almost reminds me of riding a motorcycle and the power band kicks in lololol
or something like that, mine has gotten worse over the past few days so hopefully someone has the right information
 
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