Now try reading it.

I just love when my phone tries to speak/type for me. Lol

 

Ah I gotcha! Yeah I have the rod caps in coffee cans labeled for each piston. I may as well put em back on.

 

put the mains back too... be sure orientation and order is correct too.

if you are reusing the cam keep the lifters in order.

richard

 

Thanks Rich.
Yeah the main caps are actually stamped 1 to 5 from front to back of the engine. I've got lotzzz of pics!

 

Ya know... I love building engines... if I were closer I'd come over and build it for you for free (you pay parts and machine work)

Richard

EDT: odds are you will be re-using the pistons and doing a re-ring... why pull the engine down in the first place?

 

I appreciate that! If you're ever traveling...

When I purchased the engine the accessories, heads, oil pan, front cover were all off. So it was down to the block/crank/pistons/cam. It had been sitting in a barn for a little while that way (partially covered, but not properly ) so there was a bit of surface rust in the cylinders and needed honing due to that.
Also a recessed valve in #8 cylinder, so the heads needed checked over anyway... might as well go ground up to make sure the issue that caused it wasnt in the bottom end.

 

Looks good Alex. Keep those pictures coming!

 

When they hone it they will hopefully just break the gaze and you can use over-sized rings (might need a ring grinder and feeler gauge to set the gap).

That way you can save a bunch of money on pistons. unless there is unusual wear on the pistons they should be good for a million miles or more.... it's the cylinders that wear.

Don't buy parts till the machine shop checks and finishes everything. that way if you need under/oversize components you are not buying things twice.

Also, once you get the rings and pistons set have them balance it. It might not matter that much in an engine that revs to 4000 rpm but for the $100 many shops charge it's worth it for that extra smoothness.

Just have them re-build the heads.

Richard