Hi Everyone,

I am considering replacing the mechanical fuel pump with an electric one. Where should I locate the pump on the truck and any recommendations as to which fuel pump to get? Is there anything else, besides removing the mechanical fuel pump and push rod and putting a cover over where the stand pipe goes, that I need to do?

Thanks,
Aaron

 

Installing an electric fuel pump on a "traditional" engine requires that you buy a special fuel pump relay.
This relay activates for a few seconds when you switch ignition on. As soon at you start cranking relay is acivated ( by the LV side pulses from the coil negative) and stays energized as long as the engine runs.

If for whatever reason the engine stalls, relay drops out and pump stops.
Was standard equipment on many 70/90s european cars running K-Jetronic ( VW, MB and quite a few others)

It is also posible to use a pressure switch on the lube oil pressure.

Best regards

Ola

 

I use electric fuel pumps along with the mechanical pumps on all three of my vehicles. I don't know if you're running 6v or 12v in your truck. However, I highly recommend the Airtex brand, like this one: . This one is 6V, but there's a 12V available as well. You want this pump mounted as close to the hose at the bottom of the fuel tank as possible. There's no need to remove the mechanical pump. I have the electrical pump wired to a toggle switch that I added to the dash and turn on the pump before I start the vehicle and turn it off once I'm done driving. If you hide the toggle switch well enough, it could also act as a theft deterrent.

 

I run the Airtex E8016S, which is a low-pressure pump 12v, but I still run a regulator, the Holley 12-804. The pump is mounted in the DS frame rail, with the regulator on the DS inner fender. The reg needs to be well away from the engine because a diaphragm failure makes it squirt gas out the top -- don't ask me how I know...

On an EFI engine, if you lose fuel pressure, the engine stops virtually instantaneously. With a carb, the engine will easily run 20 - 30 seconds, depending which carb, engine load, etc. Assuming the problem is a fuel line rupture, you'll smell the fumes, or see the flames, long before the engine stops. The only benefit of a relay or the oil pressure switch is if there is an accident where you aren't capable of turning off the key, which is definitely a consideration. But it isn't 100% protection.

 

My 92 has a fuel pump relay in the engine compartment. Could such a thing be used on a 6 volt system? They are relatively cheap and easy to get.

 

Thanks for all your input. One more question. If gas gets past the diaphragm of the mechanical lubricator will it leak into the crank case? Had the truck out last week and noticed gas leaking from around the fuel pump. The ran great and continued to run while I was trying to locate the source of the leak, I think fuel was leaking through the diaphragm and coming out the at the base of stand pipe.

 

A ruptured mechanical fuel pump diaphragm may result in fuel being dumped into the engine lubrication system.

 

Well after checkin' the relay in my 92 that ain't gonna work. And hearing Aarons plight with his pump leaking I think I'll go the electric route. The cost would be around 70 bucks which isn't so bad.The pressure switch and regulator are a must.The specs on the reg. said it was set at @2.7 lbs at the factory. Did you guys have to adjust it up or down at all?Also what did you do about the mechanical pump. Sorry Aaron for jackin' your thread but I guess we're both looking for the same answers.By the way my mom was born in Point Pleasant many moons ago.S'pose I have a little hillbilly blood too. But any ways thanks fellas.

 

The old Holleys like 2.0 - 2.5 psi, but 2.7 is fine. The stock pumps put out more than that.

On my V8 I tossed the pump and pushrod, put an aluminum plate on the hole.

 

I don't run a regulator on my set ups. No problems yet.

 

On my flathead v8 I removed the fuel pump pushrod, plugged both ends of the hole and reinstalled the fuel pump. First I gutted the pump of all the linkage and levers, then installed a blind plate behind the diaphragm and installed the pump back on the engine. Then I ran new tubing & hose from my new Mustang tank mounted between the frame rails to a Carter #P60504 rotary fuel pump@$33.00 that I mounted inside the frame rails just behind the driver. It came with a fuel filter and mounting hardware. The I ran steel tubing and fuel hose up to the fuel pump. I put a regulator right before the fuel pump to drop the pressure to a manageable level. Ross had a good idea about mounting the regulator remotely, I am going to follow his advice. The installation looks stock with the fuel pump and glass bowl in place.

 

Thanks for the replies guys. Sometimes I can be an airhead if I'm real busy.Like the time I parked my truck to unload some lumber and left it running. got the lumber unloaded and went back to work.Went back outside to get a saw blade or whatever and my truck was still running, an hour and a half later. Hee Hee. I figure with the pressure switch I won't forget to flip the toggle switch under the dash. Kind of a back-up maybe. All this time I never knew there was a 6 volt pump available. I learn somethin' new every day from this forum. Thank you all.

 

Fixnair, you must have snuck in there while I was huntin and peckin. The blind plate you mentioned is somethin' you made ? Whats the scoop on that. I guess keeping the stock look would be cool but I don't think anybody is gonna wanna ogle my beat up ole truck too much.At least not yet. But thanks for the idea. Maybe it's somethin' Aaron might wanna do.

 

That's a clever way to keep stock appearance!

 

Well it's -25 this morn. Too cold to work outside again. Unfortunatly that's where my truck is. Got the tank all cleaned up inside and lookin pretty good .Got a couple plugs from a friend who is a plumber and air tested the tank.So many pin holes now I couldn't believe it.Where did they allcome from? What I'm wondering is will these electric fuel pumps work on a tank between the rails out back? Been too darn cold to work outside and I don't have any inside stuff to do yet so I'm goin' nuts sittin' here idleing all the time.Been searchin' threads like crazy trying to figure stuff out for when the time comes.Looked at my exhaust and intake mans. the other day and noticed that one of the flanges on the exhaust man. was welded.Seems they saw fit to weld the nut and stud into the mix at the same time.Watched a you tube video on a fella that had an old Falcon w/a inline 6.He had a header system for it .Sounded OK to me for a 6 with duals.Searched a bunch of threads and found one w/a link to reds.210 bucks back then.I could probably make one for 75 bucks but I would need the flanges I think. Anyone have any suggestions?I'm not lookin' for any performance advantages really, just thot it would kinda cool.There were some guys that got two mans. and cut them in two. One from a car ,the other from a truck.Something about the heat chamber for the carb.If I put a header on there how would I be able to keep the heat chamber?Then theres the little flapper in the exhaust man.Least I think that's what it is. Just a sprig and a stud sticking out. I assume that was to help the engine warm up quicker.Maybe I'll make a new intake too and set it up for a couple 750cfm Holleys or so. The insanity remains, I goota find something to do . Thanks fellas.