1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Dentsides Ford Truck
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Has anyone bought stock or +1" replacement coils for a 79 F250 2wd.

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Old 12-30-2013, 08:10 PM
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Has anyone bought stock or +1" replacement coils for a 79 F250 2wd.

Anyone replaced their coil spring on their f250 2wd's? If so has anyone done a + 1" lift coil and if so what brand vendor? Cost? and is anyone using any of the progressive coils some of the Bronco houses sell? Pics would be sweet, and ride and handleing comments? I would like to knock this next step out ASAP! A level ride and clearance for 33"x 12.50"x 16.5" is what I am after, I hate the idea of rubbing and cutting the new tires I am going to purchase. Thanks...Mo
 
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Old 01-05-2014, 03:11 PM
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Everyone should be back from the Holidays(except maybe you 1%ers) No one has changed or replaced their front coils? Put down the Craftsman, MAC or Snapper on and go post a reply!!!!!@!!!!
 
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:00 PM
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I would like to do this. More info on pros and cons of it would be good.

Would the I beams have to be bent any?

Pitman arm?

Alignment of the truck?
 
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Old 01-05-2014, 04:09 PM
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JBG has these 1-2 inch lift coils but say they are for f100, f150. Im not sure what the difference is between f150 and f250 coils.

http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-...-pair-new.html
 
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Old 01-05-2014, 08:30 PM
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We will see if anyone posts on about this very subject. We can help each other out. Whats your motor/trans comb and what your truck weight rating, short/long bed single super or crew cab? These will play into which coil you will have. Difference that would reflect between an F150 vs. 250 vs. 350 and how they are set up. So whats your tire combo too and what is the bottom of the fender lip to the top of your tire measurement for your front and for your rear? Mine are 30" tires new front gap 3", rear gap 5.5". I think that these are the stock coils that have never been replaced, with that said I am assuming that they have settled somewhat in 35yrs. I will guesstimate 1"-1.75" sag on the coils, from what I have seen others sag in the past, but that is not a definite. If that held true a stock coil may get me by with the 33"s I want to run, then maybe not. If this was a an early bronco we don't normally use a drop bracket or pitman arm unless we are going over 3". This is of course on a solid axle truck. With I beams the camber will be affected on anything over 2"-2.5" if I am not mistaken, (if I am I am sure someone will bitchslap me back in line, and onto the right course). I had heard that you could bend some angle onto the beams to fix minor problems and in the pre-runner world Ranger beams are bent and hacked and turned and spliced or swapped for 1 ton Ford I beams them they modify them some more if they want. Or you could pay someplace that has been doing this for a long time like Autofab that has a kit for our trucks( that is is you have the $$$dinero and it ain't cheap) For many like myself that bought their trucks for little more than a grand($1100 to be exact) putting down another $2500 without tires and rims may be out of reach or just doesn't make sense as it doesn't to me. Since mine will eventually be converted to 4wd when time permits, I was not going to lay out that type of cash without looking for other yes cheaper ways to go about it. I am ding research on an old thread about flipping the beams upside down and swapping spindles side to side. It's a couple yrs old but 2 people successfully did it amongst much skepticism. I am contacting the original posters to rekindle it and get updates and more info will let you know if it matures.By the way the ones that JBG has are for solid axle Broncos -truck F150 4wd only. Our coils have a bottom pigtail that the solid axles don't. Did forget to say that on the flipped ones I did not see the swaybars reinstalled if they had any to begin with . If i end doing this and I will, they sway bars will be mounted even if they require modifications, which from what I have seen under my truck I won't have to. That would go a long way towards drivability/stability. Not only high dollar race trucks have these, although many foresake, not wanting to take the time to get them to work. I do not need a ridiculous amount of flex or droop so I will not foresake and if I was I would just build some disconnects.
 
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Old 01-05-2014, 10:06 PM
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Originally Posted by mofoco1
We will see if anyone posts on about this very subject. We can help each other out. Whats your motor/trans comb and what your truck weight rating, short/long bed single super or crew cab? These will play into which coil you will have. Difference that would reflect between an F150 vs. 250 vs. 350 and how they are set up. So whats your tire combo too and what is the bottom of the fender lip to the top of your tire measurement for your front and for your rear? Mine are 30" tires new front gap 3", rear gap 5.5". I think that these are the stock coils that have never been replaced, with that said I am assuming that they have settled somewhat in 35yrs. I will guesstimate 1"-1.75" sag on the coils, from what I have seen others sag in the past, but that is not a definite. If that held true a stock coil may get me by with the 33"s I want to run, then maybe not. If this was a an early bronco we don't normally use a drop bracket or pitman arm unless we are going over 3". This is of course on a solid axle truck. With I beams the camber will be affected on anything over 2"-2.5" if I am not mistaken, (if I am I am sure someone will bitchslap me back in line, and onto the right course). I had heard that you could bend some angle onto the beams to fix minor problems and in the pre-runner world Ranger beams are bent and hacked and turned and spliced or swapped for 1 ton Ford I beams them they modify them some more if they want. Or you could pay someplace that has been doing this for a long time like Autofab that has a kit for our trucks( that is is you have the $$$dinero and it ain't cheap) For many like myself that bought their trucks for little more than a grand($1100 to be exact) putting down another $2500 without tires and rims may be out of reach or just doesn't make sense as it doesn't to me. Since mine will eventually be converted to 4wd when time permits, I was not going to lay out that type of cash without looking for other yes cheaper ways to go about it. I am ding research on an old thread about flipping the beams upside down and swapping spindles side to side. It's a couple yrs old but 2 people successfully did it amongst much skepticism. I am contacting the original posters to rekindle it and get updates and more info will let you know if it matures.By the way the ones that JBG has are for solid axle Broncos -truck F150 4wd only. Our coils have a bottom pigtail that the solid axles don't. Did forget to say that on the flipped ones I did not see the swaybars reinstalled if they had any to begin with . If i end doing this and I will, they sway bars will be mounted even if they require modifications, which from what I have seen under my truck I won't have to. That would go a long way towards drivability/stability. Not only high dollar race trucks have these, although many foresake, not wanting to take the time to get them to work. I do not need a ridiculous amount of flex or droop so I will not foresake and if I was I would just build some disconnects.
My truck is a 78 f250 single cab with a 460 c6.

Weight rating is 6,200 LBS.

Long Bed.

Tire set up is 16.5 steelie rims with 8.75R16.5 tires mounted to them.

Not sure about the measures. Will get those tmrw.

Also the motor has never been out of my truck so it's weight has been on those springs since october of 1977(my truck is a early 1978)

I have seen that autozone/oriellys carry stock springs on their website.
 
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Old 01-05-2014, 10:15 PM
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:52 AM
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4 of those coils look like for 4wd and happen to be the variable rate ones. The others look like ours.
 
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:06 AM
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been there done that

Replaced my front springs just over a year ago, including having the beams bent to make it sit right. 1976 F250 390/C6 2WD daily driver, and I think it has sagged about 1.5 inches already, enough the camber looks off and it sits low in front instead of being level. Those were the strongest 2WD springs I could find, now I am looking for a way to boost it back up. Initially it had a slight positive camber, but bending the beams made it perfect. If springs are going to sag this fast, next time I will go for a +1 or +2 lift and just wait for it to settle to level.
 
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:39 AM
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What brand or vendor on those coils? They dig have the full bottom pigtail correct? The ones on the autozone site, show 2 different type for the same front end style. I am thinking they are for the Broncos on 2 of the sets. The other 3 look like they would be weaker as the wire does not seem as heavy a gauge. they also don't seem to list a variable in what would seem to fit ours. When you get a chance post some pics of yours and some measurements for reference. Who did the bending and at what points on the beams?
 
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:47 AM
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I have a 1979 F100 2wd, 300 I6, running 15" steel rims with 33x12.5x15 mudd terrain tyres and stock coils and shocks. I dont have any problems with rubbing in front but at the rear it tends to rub. Still going to upgrade suspension parts soon.

Getting to your one of your questions, my friend has 1" coil spacers in front and if I drive behind him I can see the camber is out a little, He also runs 33x12.5x15 tyres. Dont no much more about his truck or what he did to his suspension.
 
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:51 AM
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I kept the old springs in the box the new ones were in. I will check the info and post later today. I am not sure exactly where the beams were bent, I had it done at a local shop and just picked it up when they were done. I don't think I have any pictures or measurements from when the springs were fresh, didn't think it would settle/sink like it has. It sat level if not just a bit up in front....I have the stripes that run the length of the vehicle which gives a nice visual....now it is clearly down in front again. A guy at work thought it was a 4wd based on stance, now it just looks like a tired 2wd.
 
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Old 01-06-2014, 08:53 AM
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Check out Eibach,Deaver,AutoFab. They can point you in the right direction...usually to their own cash register!
 
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Old 01-06-2014, 12:52 PM
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I would love s set off variable rates in stock form. We shall see .keep the info coming others are thinking the same thing here.
 
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Old 01-06-2014, 01:09 PM
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They there everyone. I too want to lift the front but I was actually gonna make a spacer about 2 -2 1/2 inches to level the front. I was gonna replace it with longer bolts of course. I was gonna see how it sat. I would like to put bigger tires and rims. That's my reasoning behind it.
 


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