need help removing master cylinder on 48 f2

I am trying to replace the old MC on my 48 f2. Problem is there is so little room on the back side to hold the nuts in place as I try to remove the bolts.

I got two of them off but there is one that I can't get anything on it to hold it. It is the top one toward the driver's side. The lip of the bracket is so tight i can't get a sock on there and there is no room for a wrench.

I may try one of those needle nose type vice grips.

Any other ideas? i don't have to take this bracket off (on the pedal side) do I ?

Thanks a bunch

 

You probably just need to remove more dirt, grease and grime from the bolt head. There's room for tools, but over time junk packs around them and makes it tough to find the bolts, let alone remove them. Keep trying.

 

I agree with Wayne. Shouldn't need vise-grips. The M/C will come off without breaking loose the bracket. It is a tough reach though. Maybe a stubby ratchet with a swivel 3/8" drive socket will fit on yours? And it is a great place for crusty sludge to pack around the bolt. Perhaps take an air nozzle to it, don't breathe and look the other way when aiming at it.
This described most of the bolts on my truck when I took it all apart. It was gross and not a single original fastener came off without a fight.

 

I don't recall having any access problems when removing and installing the MC so the guys are probably right . I just wonder if you have removed the actuator rod or not .

 

I may very well may be doing it wrong. I have not removed the rod on the back end. This is the stuff between the pedal and the MC?
I was thinking once the bolts were off, there is a cotter pin to take off the MC from that stuff (maybe I am wrong and that won't come out?).

I don't think there is any junk on this bolt. I picked up a 1/4 socket set and the needle nose type pliers at lunch and am going to give it a try. But maybe I am doing it wrong and the rod on the back has to come off?

 

That is indeed the stuff between the Pedal Arm and MC . Try removing it and clean out around the nuts and bolts heads to give more room to work .

 

I'm at the same spot but luckily I have the floor removed so it is a little easier to see.

 

I would guess you'll break a 1/4"-drive ratchet. If you get the rod out of the way, use extensions and at least a 3/8"-drive breaker bar, if not a 1/2"-drive.

Not sure what you mean by "rod on the back"?

 

I took the MC off my 1950 F2 recently to rebuild it and had to clean a bunch of grease,dirt, etc.. to get to the bolts and nuts holding it on. I used a 12pt 3/8 drive wobble socket on an extension to get them off. I do remember one was difficult to get a bite on but I did get them all off without breaking or stripping anything.

Doug

 

I got the master cylinder and pedals out of my 1950 F-2 today. As others have noted previously there was lots of dirt, rust and crud that I had to clean off to get to the bolt heads and nuts. All bolt heads and nuts were 9/16" with the bolt heads on the front side and the nuts on the rear. There was no room to get a socket on the bolt heads for the pedal bracket and top 2 M/C bolts. I held them with an open end wrench and then used a deep socket with a short extension driven by a 3/8" drive air wrench to get the nuts off.

I can see how these blind operations would be most frustrating with the floor in place on any vehicle as well used as mine. I did all this work from the bottom after seeing how thing fit together from the top.

Hopefully this helps anybody doing this operation like me for the first time. Here are a couple pictures.