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  #16  
Old 07-09-2014, 11:18 AM
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Fernando P Martinez
Thanks guys. AX, yes I realize there are many variables that can complicate the job. My truck is all stock w/ three on the tree, but must say it's pretty clean in and out. That said, it doesn't mean it wont have some rusted bolts or nuts, or fasteners. I am having a old car mechanic do the job. I won't take on this level of mechanical work. I'm sure he will have to improvise at times. I was just trying to get a rough idea how long it might take given the condition of the truck. I bought all new hardware with the kit from midfifty.

Thanks again.

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  #17  
Old 07-09-2014, 02:11 PM
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A good mechanic working alone, that understands what needs to be done, is familiar with old Fords, using all new parts, with the proper tools and a lift, working carefully, without complications:
1 hr to remove inner fender panel.
2 hrs to remove OEM steering column and box.
1 hr to mount new box, pitman arm and rebuild/install drag link.
2-3 hrs to cut off, modify, replace steering column. + 1hr if adding horn button conversion kit.
2-3 hrs to mount power steering pump, run and bleed lines.
2 hrs to replace inner fender, check everything.

Total 10-12 hrs. would be a fair estimate.
No improvisation should be required or desirable. If improved something was done wrong, it is almost completely bolt in.

Note: do not discard cut off OEM box! Mid Fifty will buy it from you.
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  #18  
Old 07-09-2014, 02:13 PM
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Ah thanks. That's what he quoted me.
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  #19  
Old 07-09-2014, 02:56 PM
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Wish you were closer, I'd do it for you.
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  #20  
Old 07-09-2014, 03:53 PM
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Wish you were closer, I'd do it for you.
Dang, thanks...
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  #21  
Old 07-09-2014, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXracer View Post
A good mechanic working alone, that understands what needs to be done, is familiar with old Fords, using all new parts, with the proper tools and a lift, working carefully, without complications:
1 hr to remove inner fender panel.
2 hrs to remove OEM steering column and box.
1 hr to mount new box, pitman arm and rebuild/install drag link.
2-3 hrs to cut off, modify, replace steering column. + 1hr if adding horn button conversion kit.
2-3 hrs to mount power steering pump, run and bleed lines.
2 hrs to replace inner fender, check everything.

Total 10-12 hrs. would be a fair estimate.
No improvisation should be required or desirable. If improved something was done wrong, it is almost completely bolt in.

Note: do not discard cut off OEM box! Mid Fifty will buy it from you.
I think they only pay$25.00 for each box, I'll pay more than that for old steering boxes
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  #22  
Old 07-10-2014, 09:25 AM
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We had a similar thread going last week. One question I have on this subject is if one uses the manual Toyota box, would the faster ratio as compared to the stock box result in "harder" steering effort?
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  #23  
Old 07-12-2014, 09:09 PM
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FP if you are keeping the stock column shifter and are converting the steering box to a Toyota, the job is more involved and will take quite a bit longer. There is not enough room to utilize a universal joint between the new steering box and the column shifter arm assembly. You need to use a straight solid coupler. I believe I got mine from CPP. The shifter arm assembly needs to be moved higher on the stock column which requires shortening of the shifter tube. Once the shifter arm assembly is moved, the shifter arms are no longer positioned correctly for the rods to the transmission and the higher one can't swing without hitting the firewall. The arms must be cut, repositioned and re-welded. The cut off stock column also needs a new bottom support to be fabricated. I was not comfortable mounting it to the thin split pieces that cover the opening in the floor so I fabricated a heavier one piece cover. You will also need a means of centering the steering shaft in the cutoff steering column. I used an oil-lite bronze bushing purchased from fastenal. A standard lip seal is available to insert in the bottom of the cutoff column to keep crud out. I found there is not much information available here or elsewhere for this conversion. Hope this helps.
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  #24  
Old 07-13-2014, 10:27 AM
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Why does the shifter assembly have to be moved higher?
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  #25  
Old 07-14-2014, 05:44 AM
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After the Toyota steering box is mounted, the stock column and steering shaft is cut to adapt to the input shaft on the steering box. The column shifter assembly that is originally mounted at the lower end of the stock column is now displaced by the shortened column.
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  #26  
Old 07-15-2014, 10:43 AM
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53-56 Ford F100 truck Toyota Power Steering Kit for straight axle

This kit mentions that it is used with a stock column. Looks good but expensive.
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  #27  
Old 07-15-2014, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
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53-56 Ford F100 truck Toyota Power Steering Kit for straight axle

This kit mentions that it is used with a stock column. Looks good but expensive.
I believe this is the one I bought.
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  #28  
Old 07-15-2014, 12:18 PM
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Mine is a column shift as well. I have a manual Toy box in good shape, but am having some second thoughts:

1) Not sure if a manual box will be harder to steer than stock due to faster ratio.

2) Sounds like quite a bit of extra work is involved since I want to retain the stock shifting (as pointed out by Turnrjr). I guess it can be done though.

FP- Are you planning to retain the three on the tree?
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  #29  
Old 07-15-2014, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve View Post
53-56 Ford F100 truck Toyota Power Steering Kit for straight axle

This kit mentions that it is used with a stock column. Looks good but expensive.
The only extra parts shown is a rag joint shaft connector. You need more than that to convert the stock column to re-use it: For floor shift column; Lower shaft centering bushing, lower floor mount, floor inspection plate cover for Toyota conversion, horn button switch conversion or remote push button horn switch, horn relay. For column shift: all of the above plus straight slip joint connector, shortened shift tube, reworked shift arm(s), reworked shift linkage.
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  #30  
Old 07-15-2014, 04:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AXracer View Post
The only extra parts shown is a rag joint shaft connector. You need more than that to convert the stock column to re-use it: For floor shift column; Lower shaft centering bushing, lower floor mount, floor inspection plate cover for Toyota conversion, horn button switch conversion or remote push button horn switch, horn relay. For column shift: all of the above plus straight slip joint connector, shortened shift tube, reworked shift arm(s), reworked shift linkage.

Yep, I don't have the list with me right now, but there was a long list of additional parts needed.
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Old 07-15-2014, 04:43 PM
 
 
 
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