Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 12-29-2013, 11:37 PM
dav54effie's Avatar
dav54effie dav54effie is offline
elder user
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: pineville, la
Posts: 359
dav54effie has a good reputation on FTE.dav54effie has a good reputation on FTE.
has anyone welded the seam

im new to the forum but ive been a stalker for a while. ive got a 54 f100 and i have been messing with it a bit and stuff. im wanting it to be a driver and not a show truck bc i dont wanna put all that effort and not get to enjoy it. one of the things i have been considering is welding up the seams, like on the back of the cab above the window. has anyone on here done that and if so, can you post some pics or point me to a thread about it? thanks for any help!
__________________
54 f100- in pieces!
2004 F250 6.0 Fx4 lariat
2009 fusion (wifes car)
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-30-2013, 04:50 AM
Aus56's Avatar
Aus56 Aus56 is online now
Senior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 410
Aus56 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.Aus56 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Hello, I am not a body man, but that seam is a pretty solid join I would think. Why not just lead the seam, it will work fine and be a lot simpler. Customisers have leaded seams for years. It is durable, not like fibreglass or bog.
__________________
Neville
My old girl has the original look, which I do love. I would like to customise the body of my truck, but don't have the nerve to pull it apart for a significant custom rebuild. Long live the darkside and those with the courage to travel there.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-30-2013, 06:35 AM
Giesterfarher™'s Avatar
Giesterfarher™ Giesterfarher™ is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Fresno, California
Posts: 180
Giesterfarher™ is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dav54effie View Post
im new to the forum but ive been a stalker for a while. ive got a 54 f100 and i have been messing with it a bit and stuff. im wanting it to be a driver and not a show truck bc i dont wanna put all that effort and not get to enjoy it. one of the things i have been considering is welding up the seams, like on the back of the cab above the window. has anyone on here done that and if so, can you post some pics or point me to a thread about it? thanks for any help!
Mine was welded by the PO. It came out really nice. I'll try and get some pics later today, weather permitting. If you go to my garage, there is one pic that kinda shows it. The one of it on the trailer. You might be able see it well enough.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-30-2013, 08:44 AM
AXracer's Avatar
AXracer AXracer is offline
Post Fiend
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Durham NC
Posts: 14,199
AXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to beholdAXracer is a splendid one to behold
Chuck Frank
Depends on how muck experience you have welding sheet metal. There is a significant risk of warping the daylights out of it if done incorrectly and with the flange type seam there is no way to repair it. Seam sealer makes a lot more sense.
__________________
Passionate about autocross racing!

1956 F100 Panel "GRACIE"
2007 Solstice GXP racer, the "KRAZED KANARY"
Third place finish 2009 SCCA National Championships
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-30-2013, 08:53 AM
raytasch's Avatar
raytasch raytasch is online now
Old guy with old toys
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: S.E. TN
Posts: 3,768
raytasch is a splendid one to beholdraytasch is a splendid one to beholdraytasch is a splendid one to beholdraytasch is a splendid one to beholdraytasch is a splendid one to beholdraytasch is a splendid one to beholdraytasch is a splendid one to behold
Why?? What would be gained?? Clean it well and use seam sealer, JMHO.
__________________
Ray
1949 F-4 Built to drive--script bed.
1956 F350 Stock rebuilt script bed
2007 F150 SC. Driven once in a whle.
If there’s one thing that the government is highly skilled at, it is creating excessive amounts of bureaucracy and extra layers of red tape for people to wade through.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-30-2013, 10:21 AM
dav54effie's Avatar
dav54effie dav54effie is offline
elder user
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: pineville, la
Posts: 359
dav54effie has a good reputation on FTE.dav54effie has a good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus56 View Post
Hello, I am not a body man, but that seam is a pretty solid join I would think. Why not just lead the seam, it will work fine and be a lot simpler. Customisers have leaded seams for years. It is durable, not like fibreglass or bog.
aus, what is bog?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Giesterfarher™ View Post
Mine was welded by the PO. It came out really nice. I'll try and get some pics later today, weather permitting. If you go to my garage, there is one pic that kinda shows it. The one of it on the trailer. You might be able see it well enough.
i would appreciate that so much, i want the smoothness of that. i dont really like the "break" of the seam in the lines of the truck cab. thank you

Quote:
Originally Posted by raytasch View Post
Why?? What would be gained?? Clean it well and use seam sealer, JMHO.

im not wanting to seal it, i am wanting to weld it up, smooth it out and be rid of the seam. to me, its not something i want to keep and it is purely cosmetic. i guess you can call me a darksider. lol but thats what i want!
__________________
54 f100- in pieces!
2004 F250 6.0 Fx4 lariat
2009 fusion (wifes car)
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-30-2013, 01:05 PM
CharlieLed's Avatar
CharlieLed CharlieLed is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: El Cajon, CA
Posts: 3,394
CharlieLed is a name known to allCharlieLed is a name known to allCharlieLed is a name known to allCharlieLed is a name known to allCharlieLed is a name known to allCharlieLed is a name known to all
Clean the seam well, a wire brush wheel on a drill motor works well. Once you have clean, bare metal showing on both sides of the seam (and into the seam itself) then you are ready to weld. I use a MIG with gas shielding. I lay out a number of tack welds about every 2 inches or so, let the metal cool and then repeat until the seam is all closed. There is a lot of metal where the seam comes together so not too much chance for warpage unless you really put a lot of heat into the weld...it can be done if you try to weld the whole seam at once though. I have seen these seams welded at only a few places along the length of the seam and then filled with panel adhesive to complete the fill...this seems to work just as long as you leave enough room above the fill to cover the seam with body filler to sand flash prior to priming and paint.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-30-2013, 05:24 PM
Aus56's Avatar
Aus56 Aus56 is online now
Senior User
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Australia
Posts: 410
Aus56 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.Aus56 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Dav54effie, bog is simply your everyday plastic body filler that you would be familiar with.

Click the image to open in full size.

This Holden has had the seams between the rear guards and the body shell filled. Lead wiping has been used to do this for decades and gives a far stronger and durable result than fibreglass or body filler. It is pretty straightforward to do, and can be taken out readily if the guard needs to be taken off for repair.

I appreciate that you are not likely to take the top of your cab off for repair. It just seems to me that with a seam as solid as that one on your cab, the lead is easier to do than welding and is not likely to fail due to flexing.
__________________
Neville
My old girl has the original look, which I do love. I would like to customise the body of my truck, but don't have the nerve to pull it apart for a significant custom rebuild. Long live the darkside and those with the courage to travel there.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-30-2013, 06:34 PM
71mach351's Avatar
71mach351 71mach351 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: South Burlington, Vermont
Posts: 81
71mach351 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I welded mine. I like the look.

URL=http://s184.photobucket.com/user/71mach351/media/56%20f100/DSCN2659.jpg.html]Click the image to open in full size.[/URL]
__________________
Rick Bombard
Resto Pics:
http://s184.photobucket.com/albums/x...351/56%20f100/
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-30-2013, 06:59 PM
Giesterfarher™'s Avatar
Giesterfarher™ Giesterfarher™ is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Fresno, California
Posts: 180
Giesterfarher™ is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aus56 View Post
Dav54effie, bog is simply your everyday plastic body filler that you would be familiar with.

Click the image to open in full size.

This Holden has had the seams between the rear guards and the body shell filled. Lead wiping has been used to do this for decades and gives a far stronger and durable result than fibreglass or body filler. It is pretty straightforward to do, and can be taken out readily if the guard needs to be taken off for repair.

I appreciate that you are not likely to take the top of your cab off for repair. It just seems to me that with a seam as solid as that one on your cab, the lead is easier to do than welding and is not likely to fail due to flexing.
+1 on that. Lead filler will take less than half the time and is easily reversible if needed.
Plus, no matter how slow you weld the seam, the weld metal WILL distort (Shrink) causing a depression right at the edge of the heat affected zone. You have to get the metal hot enough to melt in order for the deposited metal to penetrate. When it cools, it shrinks. It's just the nature of welding steel. This shrinkage requires grinding, then body filler. Or just excessive grinding, (Cheating LOL) which would weaken the joint at the edge of the weld, (Knife Edge, thin spots, etc.) not to mention if you slip up with the grinder you're back to body filler again to feather out low spots you made with the grinder.
The other option is a massive amount of time with a hammer and dolly peening out the weld zone/parent metal boundry. Expert level metal finishing for those allergic to lead and plastic.

The PO that did mine used the Mig weld, grind the weld more or less flush with the parent metal, then fill with plastic method. Like I said, it came out very nice, but if it was me, I'd have gone the lead route. And I'm a 30+ year veteran welder. I weld sheetmetal everyday for a living.

And you just never know when some dummy is going to drop something heavy on your roof and oil can it.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 12-30-2013, 07:03 PM
Giesterfarher™'s Avatar
Giesterfarher™ Giesterfarher™ is offline
Senior User
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Fresno, California
Posts: 180
Giesterfarher™ is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71mach351 View Post
I welded mine. I like the look.

URL=http://s184.photobucket.com/user/71mach351/media/56%20f100/DSCN2659.jpg.html]Click the image to open in full size.[/url]
Thanks,71mach351! Now I don't have to go out in the cold and wind to take pics of mine!

Very nice job too.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 12-30-2013, 10:34 PM
dav54effie's Avatar
dav54effie dav54effie is offline
elder user
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: pineville, la
Posts: 359
dav54effie has a good reputation on FTE.dav54effie has a good reputation on FTE.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 71mach351 View Post
I welded mine. I like the look.

URL=http://s184.photobucket.com/user/71mach351/media/56%20f100/DSCN2659.jpg.html]Click the image to open in full size.[/URL]
thats exactly what i am wanting to do! i really like the way that looks, sooth and clean. you just did spot welds all along it?
__________________
54 f100- in pieces!
2004 F250 6.0 Fx4 lariat
2009 fusion (wifes car)
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 12-31-2013, 11:02 AM
71mach351's Avatar
71mach351 71mach351 is offline
Junior User
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: South Burlington, Vermont
Posts: 81
71mach351 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dav54effie View Post
thats exactly what i am wanting to do! i really like the way that looks, sooth and clean. you just did spot welds all along it?
I welded the entire seam, took a grinder to it , then body filler. Lots of block sanding and epoxy primer. I also did the cowl seams and welded in the vent screws on the passenger side. It gives that area a nice smooth look.
__________________
Rick Bombard
Resto Pics:
http://s184.photobucket.com/albums/x...351/56%20f100/
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 12-31-2013, 12:20 PM
dav54effie's Avatar
dav54effie dav54effie is offline
elder user
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: pineville, la
Posts: 359
dav54effie has a good reputation on FTE.dav54effie has a good reputation on FTE.
Ok. I messed with it a little last night and it turned out not to bad. The reason I'm not doing lead is bc I don't have all the supplies for that and I have a welding machine and I have done a few patches on the truck already so I've got a little practice. But what I did to it last night would take just a little bit of filler to smooth out.
__________________
54 f100- in pieces!
2004 F250 6.0 Fx4 lariat
2009 fusion (wifes car)
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 12-31-2013, 12:53 PM
Olweldinrig's Avatar
Olweldinrig Olweldinrig is offline
Dave
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Edenwold Saskatchewan
Posts: 412
Olweldinrig is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.Olweldinrig is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
David LaRose
Just a question about the lead but I thought these new paint and primers wouldn't adhere well to it?Even the old cars it seemed like that was the first place to go.
Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2013, 12:53 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Older, Classic & Antique Trucks > 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks

Tags
f100, how to, seam, weld

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
62 F100 Roof seam - to weld or not? P38fighter 1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 10 06-20-2012 03:01 PM
seam filling tip49 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 28 06-06-2010 08:30 AM
overthinking new bed assembly???? 49fordf1 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 11 06-21-2009 06:05 PM
bed-side/ wheel-well patch panel sigtauenus Paint & Bodywork 4 10-25-2003 07:46 AM
Welded Bed Seams rwolf70f100 1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks 7 08-09-2001 06:42 PM



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:25 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford® is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup