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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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  #16  
Old 12-31-2013, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Olweldinrig View Post
Just a question about the lead but I thought these new paint and primers wouldn't adhere well to it?Even the old cars it seemed like that was the first place to go.
Eastwood has lead-free body solder that claims to work well with modern paint. I've never used it, but I have always been very happy with anything purchase from Eastwood.
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  #17  
Old 01-02-2014, 11:24 AM
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Look at the photo series "details, details" to see the start of welding up the seam and the finished work on Snakebit. Personally I would lay a length of 1/6" tig welding rod in the seam so as to not need as much heat and filler wire, especially if welding with MIG. Note how they are doing a seires of tack welds a distance apart rather than a continuous bead. They may look like a continuous bead in the picture, but they are a series of short overlapping tacks.
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I highly recommend using 0.023 ESAB Easy Grind wire for MIG. See my welding tutorial:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...-practice.html
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  #18  
Old 01-02-2014, 12:41 PM
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I found my seam to be completely rusted out... the PO filled the seam. I haven't sanded it down to see what was used to repair. I'm planning on checking it and if it's just bondo, I will need to weld it.
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  #19  
Old 01-02-2014, 06:59 PM
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Ax, or anyone else....

Did you all notice the welding on the snakebit truck. Looks like they welded the drip rail over the door edge, Wonder why they didn't just drill out the spot welds???
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  #20  
Old 01-02-2014, 09:06 PM
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I filled all the seams on my panel with a mig then filled with body filler. I like the look.
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  #21  
Old 01-03-2014, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by clintonvillian View Post
Ax, or anyone else....

Did you all notice the welding on the snakebit truck. Looks like they welded the drip rail over the door edge, Wonder why they didn't just drill out the spot welds???
What spot welds are you referring to?

Removing the rain gutter is a complex job, about 4 layers of metal come together there. If you cut the gutter off there will be a gap that must be repaired.
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  #22  
Old 01-03-2014, 12:42 AM
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ive seen of one of the many car shows where they cut a couple inches of drip rail then welded it, cut, weld, cut, weld. you get the picture. came out nice. im considering it for my truck. depends on how bored i get! lol
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  #23  
Old 01-03-2014, 11:35 AM
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ive seen of one of the many car shows where they cut a couple inches of drip rail then welded it, cut, weld, cut, weld. you get the picture. came out nice. im considering it for my truck. depends on how bored i get! lol
Right way to do it, if you cut the entire rail off at once the roof skin will come free, and keeping alignment will be difficult. When you cut off the rail, there will be a gap between the roof skin and the cab sides that will need to be filled and the inner support panel will need to be reattached.
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Old 01-03-2014, 11:47 AM
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Isn't that only above the windshield? Arent the side rails individual pieces just spot welded to the upper door opening?
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  #25  
Old 01-03-2014, 05:31 PM
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Of all the custom work on this truck I think the "fender makeover" is likely the most practical because moving the front axle forward 5 inches will greatly improve the front to rear weight ratio and I gota think the improvement in handling will be huge. I really wish I had done this.
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  #26  
Old 01-03-2014, 06:51 PM
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It improves the visual balance as well.

The roof has a flange is spot welded to the gutter at the inside bottom under the sealer. when you cut the gutter away the roof is no longer attached.
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  #27  
Old 06-07-2014, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by AXracer View Post
I highly recommend using 0.023 ESAB Easy Grind wire for MIG. See my welding tutorial:
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...-practice.html
Anybody know where to get ESAB Easygrind .023? I can't seem to find it in any of the normal sources.

The welding the new metal patch panel to the old metal on the floorpan is giving me a fit. Any suggestions or tips? AX, I have been through your tutorials. Maybe I missed something?
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  #28  
Old 06-07-2014, 04:05 PM
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Anybody know where to get ESAB Easygrind .023? I can't seem to find it in any of the normal sources.
I ordered mine online from weldingsupply.com
https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/ei...810:OR:130PS43
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  #29  
Old 06-07-2014, 05:11 PM
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The 0.023 is only available in 11# (8") spools now. The 0.030 is still available in 2# spools while supplies last. If your welder only handles the small spools, I'd order ample supply of the 0.030 IMMEDIATELY. Even the heavier wire in Easy Grind is better than any other wire for sheetmetal and general purpose, so stock up while you can.
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  #30  
Old 06-07-2014, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petemcl View Post
Anybody know where to get ESAB Easygrind .023? I can't seem to find it in any of the normal sources.

The welding the new metal patch panel to the old metal on the floorpan is giving me a fit. Any suggestions or tips? AX, I have been through your tutorials. Maybe I missed something?
"giving me fits" is not a welding term I understand (well actually I do understand it, I just can't tell you how to fix it!) , so please be specific as to the problems you're having, the machine, type shielding gas (including regulator/flow meter setting) and wire you're using, and I'll try to help. Did you read the most recent installment on how to make and weld a butt seam in sheet metal? Start a new topic so it doesn't get lost and/or PM me.
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Old 06-07-2014, 05:21 PM
 
 
 
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