Yeah I'd rather not run premium.
Isn't the 268h a higher power curve? I haven't seen and iske cams yet but I'll look. I love the low end torque I have. I have 3.55 gears and 32" tires pulls like mad.
As far as the head goes, a p&p, decking and new valves, what should I do to it oh and a 3 angle. Should I get bigger valves?

 

With any cam you want to get the kit, with v.springs, retainers, keepers, and lifters. You would be wise to change to screw in studs for the rocker arms to handle the added tension of a higher lift cam.

Don't do larger valves. Instead, use that money for porting the head. Clean up the bowls and the short radius in the intake. Porting is the foundation for all mods. Have it done properly and well, and your engine will be reborn.

For bottom end grunt, I'd go with either the Isky 256 or the Comp 260. Neither, however, lope at idle. (The 260 has so much duration that I suspect Comp took liberties with the rpm power range of that cam.) Idle lope and bottom end grunt don't seem to mix with cams. If you want idle lope, and still wish to keep the bottom end, I'd look at a Howard's cams on Summit. It has (iirc) 447 lift, 209* duration, and a 108 LSA. In essence it is a copy of the Isky 262, yet they advertise a lower beginning rpm range than Isky. The working rpm range is from 1200 rpm to something like 5,000. Good luck.

 

I have a t18 so I start in second so I'm not too sure about the 1200 start of peak power. The crane also has a different lift for the intake and exhaust which I thought would be better but I'm fairly new to cams and cam terms.
I plan on a great deal of head work.
I don't care about a lope it's a straight six not a built 8.
I'm paying a shop to rebuild and get rid of my feedback system since I am currently deployed.
I do tow occasionally. I pulled a 10k load up a few good hills in and I was at 45 mph since the trailer was overloaded and wobbly but it was around 900-1100rpm wether up a hill or flat. Starting in.second the whole time not much clutch slip either. I don't want to loose that low end power.
Sorry for hijacking your thread.
The Howard website says that cam by them is a good one all around. They have one with .480 and 267 duration which says string low and mid trq and hp. But peak is from 1600-5000. I'm going to contact them about it
Thank you

 

I'm not convinced the 268h cam will have a higher power band than the stock cam.

The stock cam also has 268° duration but it's ground (or installed) 10° retarded from the 268h. By that logic it *should* actually push the power band of the stock cam higher in the rpm range.

The 268h closes the intake valve 10° of crank rotation earlier than the stock cam, so more effective stroke (the piston is lower in the bore) and more dynamic compression. The 252h closes the intake 18° earlier - adding ~.5" of effective stroke.

Experience may prove me wrong. I'll let the dyno and some drive testing do the talking.

If your goal is max low rpm torque and you never go north of 3,500-4,000 rpm the Isky Mil-A-Mor or Comp 252h are probably the best off-the-shelf options.

 

i dont go over that high because i currently cant.
let me get this straight, the duration is the time the lift is applied. the lift is obviously how much the rocker lifts, moving the valve down, higher lift requires dishing and a longer duration. what is the .050 duration mean? i think i read someplace that is the number you should pay more attention to? im fine with getting a cam that has a slightly higher peak rpm, such as 1000-1200, if it actually comes in there, but should i get one with more lift, or should i get one like the mil-a-mor and put 1.75 rockers on it to get more lift?
i know clifford isnt a good name, but i really like the 32/36. ive seen what it can do on a 252 chevy as far as mpg and power and throttle response but do you think a 300 can handle two of those and not be starved? it will already have a carb for every three cyclinders and a connector so they wont have to be perfectly set up relying on a perfect vacuum and linkage match.

Ford Straight 6 240-300 1964-1996
can you explain to me why they say the first one is good all around but the second one is great at low and middle?
and comparing the second howard cam to the comp cam 260h.
i wish i was at home right now because i would drive around shops until i found someone knowledgeable enough to teach me, however im currently deployed and ordering parts for when i get back.
like ive said before i apoligize for highjacking your thread and asking all these newbie questions, im just trying to get caught up in a dying art form.

 

also, how hard was the zf5 swap into that era body?

 

Believe to increase low end torque(RV cam) compared to stock ( general purpose)
1. shorter lift duration
2. increase lobe center angle, increase ramp
3. advance cam

The lobes can be symmetric or non symmetric.
Modern engines have more aggressive opening ramps than closing ramps and therfore the lobes are non sysmetrical.

On 32/36
Read a post on "Mike's carburetor parts" site on YFA carbs section, where one Weber 32/36 was used on a 300 and failed.

 

Right, and the Comp 268h has the same adv. duration (268°) and LSA (110) as the stock cam but with increased ramp rate (218° duration @.050" vs. 192°) and ground 10° advanced. Whether or not that translates into moving the peak torque rpm down remains to be seen.

Popped by the shop yesterday and the short block is finished. Bit of a delay as he had to order piston rings from Minnesota - apparently the shallow ring pistons I chose aren't usual. He's going to finish up the head this week so barring any SNAFUs I'll be picking everything up next Saturday.

I asked the fella at the shop about dyno testing and he mentioned another cat who will do it for $500. More that the first shop I spoke with but this shop has the advantage of being literally five minutes from la Casa de Von Ottomatic. Factor in three hours road time to Denton and it's about break even. Imma call them Monday for more info.

 

Is that dyno break in? Or dyno tuning?

 

Break in and several runs for tuning/testing.

 

Is that for a full day? A lot of my locals do hourly
What do you plan on bringing there with you? Carb jets, oil, gas, anything else?

 

I doubt it's a full day but am going to call and get the details. The shop in Denton charges $75/hr with a four hour minimum so $300 or for ~$500 I could get six to seven hours. It's a pretty good haul but depending on what the cat up the street says I may still make the drive.

 

Do you think you will have to re-jet your carb?
There's a place here that charges 100$ an hour. I'm hoping my engine builders are big enough to have a dyno stand. They are mopar muscle magazine's go to guys. Pretty sweet, and expensive. Guys know their stuff though.

 

I've got a wideband O2 sensor so the carb is pretty dialed in, maybe it needs jet changes or maybe just a rod change but it ought to be fine as is.

Depending on how many pulls they think we can do in X hours I may bring two or three carbs to play with - the Edelbrock on it now plus an Autolite 4100 and a Predator I've been meaning to try.

 

My machine shop said 500$ dyno break in and tune.

When do you expect to have your motor running?

I don't think you mentioned it, but what intake setup do you have?