One-wire alternators usually come with a smaller pulley to compensate for that.

 

Geeze.. duh on my part! This is why I'm here on FTE!

 

Then your other alternative is to use a large, heavy, rubber mallet. Also put some penetrating oil around the spline to wheel interface while tapping it with a brass drift. Be sure to put the nut back on enough to engage a few threads else you may get smacked in the face (don't ask me how I know that ).

Or you might want to consider drilling and tapping the metal collar of the wheel. I don't think that the metal is very hard so it shouldn't be too difficult. Then you could use your puller.

 

DougofMontana,

If you meant the thing was hanging down lower than the transmission and hinged between the rear spring hangers, it looks like the spare tire carrier to me. I'm working on a '48 F-1 and have been for many years and it also was a flathead 6 with a 4 speed. It's a long way to Montana from CA but if you need a good transmission for free, I have one. The PU only had 57,000 miles on it when I got it from a neighbor in '62 and he was the original owner.

Jim

 

Good catch Jim. I was wondering about that. Particularly since many of us have never seen that part, long gone to some PO's scrap pile.

 

Hi Jim, I have the spare tire carrier (it still had a spare tire hanging from it!). This "device" is suspended from the front springs "rear" shackle. It hangs directly below the deepest point of the oil pan (I misspoke earlier when I said it was under the tranny.) After cleaning it more over the weekend I can see now that it is definitely NOT factory made. So, I'm just going to undo the shackle bolts and pull them out partially and get rid of this huge mystery!
I was speaking with my 84 year old dad this weekend and he also warned me of the face-to-steering wheel interaction! LOL

 

Success! My son and I managed to get the steering wheel off last night Now I need to figure out how to get the steering column disconnected from the steering box... so's I can pull the cab. Today's effort is to try to get the engine to fire. It will be a big decision factor on which way this build goes. I have the new coil installed, along with new points and condenser. First to see if I get fire to the plug wires, then ... spray a little gas in the carb and crank her over. I've pulled the fan, generator and such, and kept the plumbing intact, so I 'm just looking for some fire for now. I'd really like to keep the 226, as I don't know if I could ever afford doing an engine swap. Though, a small block and C5 or C6 sounds interesting. Along with that though goes the whole front/rear suspension and new differential decisions...$$$ UGH. Could anyone give me an idea what I'd have into a Jag IFS? I kind of doubt I'd even find one in Montana, LOL, so shipping might be prohibitive as well. Anyways, getting some breakfast into me and it's out to the garage (yes, heated garage!)

 

The shaft and box are all one unit. You need to take the pitman arm off and then the three bolts that hold the box to the frame.

 

The steeing box and column are one unit. The only way to remove the column shaft is to completely disassemble the steering box.

 

Thanks guys... I had looked at it the other day and that was kind of what I figured, but sometimes I tend to over look the obvious!

 

Welcome Doug thats a real nice truck you have there .The Prairie air is very kind to sheet metal . As to making big suspension changes I would say leave it stock just install a higher ratio differential at some point. Rebuild your brakes so that they are better than new with as in with a dual chamber master cylinder. One last thing since I noticed no reference to it while reading , do you have yourself a repair manual yet . They are a must have .

 

You may need a pitman arm puller.

 

Pete.. with the proper application of force (sledge hammer) I was able to get it off pretty easily this morning. After removing the steering column I went and pulled one of the batteries out of my Dodge and hooked things up. Checked that I had spark with the old screwdriver trick, added a little gas to the carb and I had it running! Only for about 15 seconds, but hey she runs. NOW the big decision. will I be happy with the 226?
Allan, I bought an original Ford shop service manual (maybe not a "repair" manual?) right after I got the truck, but I'm finding it kind of useless when it says things like "remove the steering wheel" LOL. The pics and wiring diagrams are great, but haven't found a whole lot of use for it yet. I am working on the brakes, having already replaced one line and rebuilt the original master cylinder. I haven't run into a dual chamber master cylinder. I'd sure take a recommendation for a place to look!

 

Doug - You are fortunate. Mine required a smoke wrench. No harm as the ball was worn egg shaped

 

Today was a great day in the shop! Removed the Pitman arm, steering box and column, running boards and emergency brake cables. The best part was that I hooked up a battery, added a little gas to the carb and presto... the engine started! lol A good day indeed. Just one more bolt to grind off and the cab is ready to remove