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Motor is out. What to re-seal?

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Old 12-27-2013, 08:42 PM
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Motor is out. What to re-seal?

I pulled my motor today.

My list of "To Do" things while its out.

1. Oil Cooler o-rings.
2. ICP o-ring
3. Oil pan gasket
4. IPR O-rings
5. Rear main seal

I also bought the oil rail end plug o-rings, oil rail o-rings, CCV o-rings, and turbo pedestal o-rings as well as a turbo rebuild kit since I am installing a Bean's 1.0 exhaust housing, and WW2 on the turbo.

I've already rebuilt the fuel bowl. I have one year old Rosewood Stage 1's in it and one year old glow plugs(ZD-11s). I also did the valve cover gaskets and wiring harnesses under them. HPOP is a T-500 and installed about 6mo ago.

I had oil leaks in the valley from the ICP o-ring, and the oil cooler was leaking as I didn't use the good viton seals last time. Oil pan gasket has always leaked since I got the truck as well.

Anything else you would do with the motor out of the truck?




On a side note. Even after doing the UVCH last year and all glow plugs + relay, this thing smokes like a freight train when cold. Its eye burning smoke and basically all diesel. Truck has no blow-by either. It always starts, but lopes badly for several seconds before evening out. Injectors were rebuilt by Rosewood last year. Any thoughts? Maybe bad up stream wiring? The full engine harness is saturated in oil, so I plan to go through it as well and clean everything and re-wrap it all.

Oh, and even when plugged in, I will get a slight blue/white haze from the tailpipe when its below freezing here in CO. None of my other 7.3s have ever smoked after being plugged in, and none of them ever came close to the smoke this will truck will throw un-plugged.
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Old 12-28-2013, 03:50 AM
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Dont know if you plan on big hp in the future, but studs, springs and rods would be alot easier with the motor out. I would also include the dip stick rereal when you rereal your pan. Make sure your pan is rust free too. You could strip it down and paint the pan while your at it. Another thing to think about installing is bellowed up pipes. And ebpv delete.
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Old 12-28-2013, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by stainlessstroker95 View Post
Dont know if you plan on big hp in the future, but studs, springs and rods would be alot easier with the motor out. I would also include the dip stick rereal when you rereal your pan. Make sure your pan is rust free too. You could strip it down and paint the pan while your at it. Another thing to think about installing is bellowed up pipes. And ebpv delete.
This is as far as I will go power wise. I just don't need anymore than what this has. It pulls 26K with ease. I just wanted the turbo to spool a little quicker, which is why I am gong with the 1.0 housing and WW2. And, I already built my own bellowed up-pipes last year. Pan is rust free. And, I have already gutted the EBPV as well.

Good call on the dipstick thing. I did that last year as well, but I might as well do it again to make sure it seals well. Anyone have the part # for the o-ring on the dipstick tube and the larger one?
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Old 12-30-2013, 06:06 PM
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As far as I know there no pan gasket. Just a silicone gasket stuff. It gray and sold by ford. Not sure I'd mess with the rear main seal. There not know for going. How about a water pump? it right there.
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Old 12-30-2013, 09:17 PM
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As far as I know there no pan gasket. Just a silicone gasket stuff. It gray and sold by ford. Not sure I'd mess with the rear main seal. There not know for going. How about a water pump? it right there.
Water pump was done in the spring.

Yes, I know the pan gasket is just RTV. I should be reassembling things later this week.
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