For others doing these kind of mods on their transmissions remember there is a proper refill procedure for the transmission:

- After the mod procedure is done check that everything is properly plugged and secured.

- With the engine OFF, refill the transmission through the dipstick tube, until the ATF reaches the dipstick marks, this should take about half of the specified qts.

- Turn the engine ON and slowly pour 1 qt at a time, keep checking the ATF level. Place the transmission in each gear for some seconds for the ATF to be properly distributed and the readings accurate.

- Repeat the last step until the ATF level reaches the dipstick marks with the engine and trans at operating temp.

 

i was just looking as see i never revised this thread.it's important to follow these instructions when installing the bushing not as shown a page back.notice the issue of staking on the bushing seam.big no no.

Superior's E40D Pump Correction Package #K062

listen! if you want to install this with transgo's tugger or reprogramming kits.note that transgo's pump instructions tell you to plug the hole if this mod has been done.this would be talking about superiors step #5A.
it is up to you to figure out if these mods can work in unison and which kit you feel overrides the other. (then send me a pm letting me know what you found out cus i did both fully lmao! please also note,it's a well used trans in log truck,so "if it works on the cheap,it's good enough for now" mentally was used.)

here i will show you the issue with the bushing supplied in the kit and how to go one step further with taking tips from yet one other kit to finally make a flawless setup.so what is this pump mod kit and what dose it do:

Superior Transmission - Superior K062

ATSG showing the issue with the plastic valve that is addressed with this kit:





listen! before installing the bushing.properly hone it out to accept the new oversize bushing.all replacement bushings are oversize and must be honed! if you simply press in the new bushing,the converter will be too tight and it will spin the bushing! (yes i learned the hard way.)
listen! before installing the bushing.drill this hole out as it states at the beginning of step #7 to 5/16 (like not shown here.) as per instructions!!
Listen!! follow the steps in the next post before installing bushing!!! there is a vital step not included with instructions!!



see one problem superior made here? they made it so,that the place where you need to stake a side,is right on their connection.poor planning on their part as this slightly knocks the bushing out of round a tad right here.use caution not to get too crazy staking this particular spot too much or else converter may not slide into pump!
test fit pump on converter before placing pump into trans!!!
Listen!! follow the steps in the next post before installing bushing!!! there is a vital step not included with instructions!! do NOT do this:


listen! ^ see their aftermarket bushing lined up with an oem stake hole? do not stake bushing here as shown!!!!!!

 

here is how i found to remedy the aftermarket bushings (and it's not just with the supplied superior brand either.so pay attention!)
i got looking at yet another kit.this is or was (not sure it's still around?) by TCI. but you don't need to buy anything! just follow their wisdom.

so they not only found a great method as to not use the stake point by making your own but in also making stake points on the other side to boot.how can beat having a properly honed out bushing bore so the converter slides in easy when it's placed in,then on top of this,so that the bushing can never slide forward blocking the drain back hole and causing your pump to press out the fluid all over the street? it's perfect so here is what you do to make this a true "superior" kit!





now you can see i took the proper steps here (i deserved pulling the trans over and over for not reading and applying what i read.don't be like me! lol.) to hone the pump for the bushing and you can see here now where i enlarged the hole to 5/16 as well...yeah that really opens her up!





listen! now notice!!! i did not stake on the bushing seam.notice i made my own stake pocket right next to the seam/oem stake pocket and staked here instead.keeping two stake points in the front.lower left = oem stake point & aftermarket bushing seam line up.
lower right = self made stake point (all it takes is a little drill bit,drilling at a little angle to make a pocket.don't get carried away.it just helps insure bushing can't spin is all.




now apply this same wisdom to the other side.the rear, so that the bushing can't walk forward! it's so simplistic.yet genius!
listen! lift the two gears up and out and insure you place them back in the same way!
listen! if you bought a used pump like i did.the seller may have split the pump to inspect the gears.do NOT trust that they are inserted correctly! (ask me how i know! trans pull # i can't remember lol! look it up if you need to!)



now get out the brake kleen/carb cleaner and spray,spray,spray and then spray clean some more.no metal shavings/filings to be left.



this right here is the key to success on installing the superior k062 kit........and i ought to know. it took me 5 trans pulls to finally get it all right.with this info you'll only need 1 pull and install.
don't forget at least these for the job;
new converter nuts.
new pump seal kit.one sold on ebay comes with whole kit with a spare pump bushing,pump gasket,and o-ring and the updated viton seal.
new pump bolt washers.
new stator shaft bushing.
be sure to research what else you may need on hand to complete the job to cut down on down time with the truck.
good luck.

 

FORDF250HDXLT, was hoping to pick your brain a bit on some of the trango tugger parts.

After extensive research I see that theres a few parts that are good to do from sonnax even if you go with the transgo tugger kit, like the metal drain back valve, and the 372(stock size but new and not worn down) or 427(larger size, higher pressure/firmer shifts) pressure modulator valve, also the transgo kit only includes a single steel accumulator valve which the directions show being used in the 1-2 shift location, additional steel accumulator valves can be purchased to replace the other 2, and sonnax even has a different size accumulator valve that can be used in the 3-4 shift location for a firmer shift.

Looking at the transgo tugger kit picture, it shows some hard parts that I am not sure what they are or where they go after looking at the pictures, any chance you can identify some of these parts? I circled them and labeled them A, B, C, D, E, F, G

The one I knew I went ahead and labeled in the picture.

 

some of the things they include you wont be using depending on what you want or don't.for example; the ability to downshift into 1st at any speed.sounds dangerous to me.i didn't like the idea for anything so i didn't use parts that were for that.
the pic your showing there is probably for sales purposes and may not be an actual pic of the parts used in this kit but might be more generic.however you look around you might be able to match some up,for example D looks to be a part you add in the line of springs in the boost valve as shown in the top row here.E looks like it might be in there as well;
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.for...0cc83ace83.jpg

however,even if you found where all those parts went (if it's not just a generic pic) it wont help you any.all the info required to install this is posted.i figured it out using just the instructions,however a lot of people will find them too vague.when you actually go to dig in and do this,you should find it very easy doing 1 step at a time using the instructions and these ones too.don't worry too much about the generic pic of parts.
you got this.


your correct about the other shift valves.you can buy them from transgo as well if you want.
now,somewhere back along i had read that sonnax's boost valve was said to cause too much of a "slamming" type lockup.a bit too aggressive............i either read that online in the past or it was my trans shop guy i used who claimed this,when i had chip trucks e4 remaned (at that time,he had installed the "tugger" kit in that truck.)

edit;
oh and i see your showing a pic of the "tugger" as well.
this one here (i installed in log truck,my f450) is not the "tugger" but the E40D-HD2-D instead.

http://www.transgo.com/products.php?...0&parent_id=80


what i did with log trucks trans was basically just fix it and a few upgrades at the same time.
when i bought the truck it had (and still has) the original trans (i can tell based on the front pump)
her pump went bad.galling in where the gears are,the bushing walked forward and puked all her fluid out passed the front seal.
rather than throwing in the towel (because i had just invested several thousand into buying and fixing up the truck) i decided id just limp the trans along.
so performed these mods with a new high volume pump (F5 casting/'95-97) and installed an economical torque converter.
she's been doing great.however meanwhile i scored a ford reman e4.when this trans finally does give up the ghost,i'll then install the more pricey "tugger kit" in the fresh trans and install a triple disc,billet converter w/ extra low stall option (well,i'll ask a trans shop about the extra low stall option,seeing how it's got 5.13 gearing) like the one in chip truck.
however this baby could just keep on rocking for a few years to come now.who knows.
those low gears really take the stress off a trans.

 

Yeah, I also wanted to know what all I was getting for the money spent as well as understanding the difference between this kit and the sonnax kit.

it appears to me that this is a spring kit with a boost valve and a single accumulator valve, and that I would still need to purchase the steel drainback valve as well as the pressure modulator valve.

as far as difference between this and the sonnax kit, the sonnax kit uses shims to firm up shifts, and this uses the plate that you drill holes into.

I wonder which parts go into the John Woods valve body.

FORDF250HDXLT, how well does your reverse work? is there any delay on reverse or a double bump, ive read that sometime a shift kit can cause that.

 

you know that's funny you ask,because the tugger kit in chip truck.i do now have a little delay in R.i had an instant R before the oem trans went.i had installed a b&m shift kit thousands of miles prior to it going out and didn't have a delay in R then either.

if anyone has any suggestions about this one.i'd be interested.

log truck with the oem and now this e4 programming kit (non tugger) has no such delay.

iv never experienced the double bump in R before.iv read about it before as well.

 

Log truck got the non tugger Transgo kit?

maybe the reverse issue is something that the tugger kit includes that the transgo e4od kit does not.... OH! and on log truck you added the K062 correction kit, which uses some of the line pressure...

soooooo, its also possible that too much pressure might cause the delayed Reverse! maybe by using transgo + K062 on log truck it made the pressure ok without causing issue on reverse. (I am very curious to the cause of a delayed or double bump reverse, as I'de like to avoid that.)

EDIT: I actually just looked at the two different products, they both include the boost valve, the tugger kit includes all the stuff at the bottom of the picture that I am having trouble identifying!
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?...product_id=138
http://www.transgo.com/products.php?...product_id=140

 

I found a post here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post8810609

that states John Woods uses the Sonnax kit, and from what i've read John Woods VB don't have the reverse issue... I wonder how many shims John Woods installs by default, and which size pressure modulator valve he uses.