@glittle do you happen to have the part number for that new radiator?

 

The part number listed on my receipt is BC3Z/8005/K for a 2014.

And fyi, I purchased 4 gallons of concentrate and 4 gallons of distilled water and it turned out to be just enough.

 

I keep reading crystal is the one to talk to about this issue, cannot figure out how to pm her. crystal if you are reading this could you respond please

 

Welcome to the forum, chris ct! Click on my username “FordService” and then select “Send a private message to FordService.” Be sure to include your VIN, dealer, mileage, full name, and best daytime number.

Deysha

 

Add another,,, 2013 Platinum F250 with a radiator leak. Just a tickle over 59,000 miles. So disappointed in the manufacturer that I have backed all my life. This should not be on the shoulders of loyal customers. Ford needs to step up to the plate.

 

Is Ford offering help on the cost of premature parts failures?

 

I'm soon to be on radiator number 4 on my '12. I just put a new in one in the first week on January this year and already I had to do another claim with mishsimoto to get a replacement. Luckily since the leak happened within 90 days they only charge $50 vs $100 90 days and beyond. Some advice on that is take pictures of when you get it and when you install it. They wanted to count the time from last claim to this one as 107 days but in reality it took a week to get shipped to me and I had to wait a few days to install it. So showing them pictures saved me $50. But on another note going through radiators like I have and I do not off road at all, I live and drive on paved roads it's defiantly a ford design flaw.

 

Ford did nothing going for me with 52000 miles. Just put a mishimoto in see if it holds up

 

I hope I'm wrong but I may be joining you with radiator #4 (3rd Mishi). It'll be past the 90 days so I'll get the full charge on the shipping. Just noticed a spot this AM under the passenger side, so maybe it was something already there on teh ground (who am I fooling, I know the routine now)

Stock one lasted ~40k miles, Mishi #1 about 22k miles, Mishi #2 was put in on Jan 1 (great way to start the year) and has ~7k miles. See a trend...

I may get the warranty replacement and sell on craigslist to offset the cost of a factory one. They seem to last a little longer, not much but at least a a couple of years. Didn't realize radiators were a maintenance item. I've changed my radiator more than my brakes

 

I wonder what could be the cause for the failure. The Mishi radiator certainly appears to be a beefed up version of the stock one. I wonder it the Mishi failures are contributed to a design failure or workmanship. I suppose if enough of them keep failing we will soon know.
Wait, I have an idea. Why don't FoMoCo do an investigation into these failures and provide a suitable solution? What could possibly prevent them from doing this?
Anyone think it might be a cost issue.....How much has this issue already cost the consumers?
Maybe we should do a Go Fund me drive to assist FoMoCo with this cost.


I need to clarify this post. Mishimoto will eventually make the necessary changes to their product since they warrant their product for a lifetime.
FoMoCo will too, eventually. Maybe the trucks in the showrooms now do not have this issue and never will. My 2012 does not have a radiator issue right now and I hope it never does. I would not be as nervous this issue will affect me if I knew there was an adequate fix available. I would not have an issue paying for anything that is recommended to prevent this from happening to me.

 

My guess is if you haven't had a problem with a 2012 by now (unless real low miles and lightly used) you probably won't during a normal radiator lifespan. For some reason some truck have problems, others don't. Mishi has been building hardcore radiators for a long time, you would think they know how to do it otherwise all of their radiators would have problems. Is it possible with manufacturing variances that some of us have gotten a bad apple a couple of times, yes. Seems strange though. Basic radiator design hasn't changed much, couple of tanks, with tubes and cooling fins in between. Is it how it's supported, then why aren't oil field and farm/ranch trucks having the problem more, they bounce those trucks pretty good.

 

I hope you are right. My truck has about 33K only used for towing and hauling and not my primary driver. I've accepted this could be an issue for me and with no solution in sight it does concern me. I'm not going to sweat it too much, as long as there are air in the tires I can get rid of it easily enough.

 

Update:

I called Ford and let them know the problems I was having. They had a Regional Customer Service Manager call me.

I can not express how helpful he was. Now, keep in mind that I have been buying new Fords and Lincolns for over 20 years and have my service done at franchise dealers. They agreed to supply the parts if I would pay the labor. I agreed and to my surprise, they even helped in getting a reduced labor rate at the dealership I was at. Knowing that the part is out of warranty and they could have told me to suck it up, I couldn't be much happier with the end results from Ford. Thank you

 

Just bought a new rad for my 2012, the original started leaking at 96,000 km. It's the updated part number BC3Z-8005-K. Will take pics for comparison to the old one tomorrow. The dealer parts guy said they used to stock radiators they were changing so many, then all of a sudden it stopped. Let's hope the new Ford rad (2 yr unlimited miles warranty) will be better than the OE was.

BTW I looked for a Mishimoto rad, apparently there are none in the US until June 30. So that would REALLY suck if you wanted a replacement.

 

Okay, new rad is in. I don't see any difference really except one secondary rad mounting bolt is blanked off. About four hours going slow, cleaning out all the dead dragonflies and stopping for coffee a few times.
I did tie wrap the A/C condenser line to the rad surround to keep it forward and out of the way, I couldn't hold it and put the rad in by myself. Other than that, pretty straightforward. Hope it's a while before I have to do it again.