I have put my truck up for the winter, and I'm really glad that I did. Although not being able to drive it has been difficult I am making do. And I'm keeping in mind that by not driving it in the salt, I'm preserving it, as I plan on keeping it for a long long while.

In the mean time I was doing some thinking of what I would like to do with the truck. I'm not looking to get massive horsepower out of it, I just want to make it as reliable as I can. I would like to solve a few issues that it has as well.

A few things on the list so far are:

1. Coolant Filter (have all the stuff to do it, just haven't done it yet)
2. Transmission Service (Trans shifts good, fluid looks good, just preventative, have record of it being done, but don't have record of any trans overhauls or rebuilds)
3. Front End Over-haul (Axle U-Joints, Upper and Lower Ball Joints, Alignment)
4. Differential fluids change (looks like the front pumpkin is leaking sligtly, new seal I'm guessing?)
5. Some other stuff I'm sure, but I can't think of.

Questions:

1. For my rough idle when warm, would injector o-rings make a difference? Or am I looking at new injectors? Have no clue when or if its been done, or even if the injectors have ever been out of the motor. How difficult are O-rings to do? I also understand that this may be a symptom of the high mileage. One of my buddies has one that has less than half of the miles and his idle is smooth as glass. Also notice the hesitation when I rev it up in between 2000-3000 RPM

2. HPOP. Would it be worth it to get a new one? It looks original as well, and with 360K+ is it on borrowed time? I know the T-500 would be the way to go, and I also understand that doing it will not make a big power increase.

Like I said I'm not wanting to put up massive power numbers, but I just want a nice reliable truck that I could jump in and drive to anywhere tomorrow. I would do it now, but I just want it to be as reliable as possible.

What else can I do to increase reliability? I know no matter what you will have to do things along the way, like with any vehicle. I just want to insure that this will be around for a long long time.

As always thanks guys, and Merry Christmas!!!

 

I have to say that the Transgo Tuggerkit I put in my tranny was a real difference maker for me. My shifts are much better and the tranny just feels right. Now mine had kool-aid in it for tranny fluid (not really, but it was WAY past due for a change) so I may be judging from a worst-case scenario. But, it was definitely worth the $300 or so I dropped to have it done - I had a friend that knows trannies help me and I gave him $100, plus the cost of the kit. You are already talking about doing fluid so I'm not factoring in that cost.

Otherwise your list sounds good to me. Maybe some poly bushings for the leaf springs? The stock ones wear bad and if you are doing the other suspension stuff I would add those to your list.

 

A stock hpop is always more reliable than any modded one. If you want to upgrade, you can get a 17* out of a SD truck. Although if yours is working ok I don't know if I'd bother.

Injector orings aren't hard to change. Sounds like you need to get that done.

Reliability. Well, all the hoses under the hood are almost 20 years old. Brakes in good condition? A bigger trans cooler would be good. Lots of things that can go wrong with a 20 yr old truck, you just gotta do what you want/can.

 

Sounds like a good idea Thomas. I am really wondering about the rough idle as well. Mine only does it when warm and not all the time. I am subscribed!

 

I'd be interested in finding out more about this. Do you have any links I could look at Dan?

LEAF SPRINGS! YES! Thats a great idea. I think I have some sag in the front. I don't know if a guy could re-arch them, or if it would just be better to replace them. At a minimum, bushings can not hurt.

It seems to be fine. I don't plan on upgrading injectors (at least not right now, not to say I won't down the road) I think I'll just leave it alone for now.

I think I'm going to start with injector o-rings. Any good write-ups on that? I'm sure its not hard, I would just like to study up before I do it.

I know some of the hoses have been replaced, trans cooler is huge, I have no idea on brand but its massive. I have a trans temp gauge, it has never gotten above 180, even pulling a car trailer with a 6K+ truck on it. I do know the radiator cooler has been bypassed, which I have heard is not good, but since temp has never been an issue I don't see a reason to hook it back up.

I also have a boost and pyro gauge. And according to Travis, I have an SD compressor wheel in my turbo. Don't know if it helps or hurts, but I think the turbo was overhauled not too long ago. No leaks from there. I also have receipts proving the oil cooler was overhauled as well with new o-rings. For 360K the truck doesn't leak a drop of anything. Which surprised me. 203 T stat has been done, PO did water pump. So I think a lot of reliability items have been taken care of.

These are great suggestions Dan and Darin. Thanks. I think Coolant filter and injector o-rings are going to be at the top of my list.

Another question, do injectors "wear out"? I'm sure o-rings will solve alot of the problems, but just wondering if they are original (I have no reason to believe they are not the originals) how many miles will they go? Just wondering.

Thanks again guys.

 

Yeah Byron I'm curious to see what the o rings will do. Did you do the rev test on yours? If you rev it up in neutral and it doesn't rev smooth between 2000 and 3000 rpm your looking at o rings.

 

TransGo Ford and Lincoln Mercury

ATS Diesel Performance*

https://racerxusa.com/down_for_maint...4c611941114bc9

When my POS E4OD Grenades I have a Local guy here in T.Dot that manufactures Torque convertors...so I Will order the correct parts and Re-build it.....But If I lived in the US ............I would go with what I mentioned above.....HEAT is the enemy of any Slush Box.....Especially If you carry alot of weight....I have put 50 K full on the latest tranny....Solenoid Pack cooked....Twice...only because the First time I paid someone to do it..the second time ..I did it myself....using FORD parts....( I get Trade Price ) Only THEN I realized I was raped the first time....I can go outside NOW and change the Fluid on my Trans....( B/M Deep Pan. BUT 4R100 pan has a drain plug...) I had a few Meltdown untill I added a 2nd cooler .....Now I have the reverse problem...It shifts Hard untill the Fluid warms up...... Untill I modified the Cooling system....That Punk put USED parts in my truck..WHEN I told him money was not an option.....
I reccomend buying Quality over Economy....there is NOTHING I can buy right now that can replace my truck......

 

Thomas, if you look in the tech thread on the top of the page there are a couple links in it for injector R&R.

 

Thanks for the links! Yeah I would be furious if I found out that someone put in used parts when I wanted new.

And Darin I will check out the links. Thanks guys.

 

I did, a few times, and it seems good warm or cold. I have heard that it is normal and a non-issue, but I sure wonder why some idle so smooth and then there is our trucks. I am convinced there is an answer. It seems when I run it hard towing or highway speeds and then come to a stop, it is good....most of the time! But others, not so much.

 

That sounds like mine. I also notice is runs better after it's sat. Seems like the warmer it is the more prone to rough idle it is. Idk. I'll do the o rings and see what that does.

 

International is the most economical ( at least here in CAN) ..I think Ford was 5 bucks more per Injector....so International it was...

 

I would guess IPR.

 

I totally overlooked the ipr. Didn't even think about that. I think I'm still going to do o rings. And then ipr. Who knows how old it is. It's pry original like everything else.

 

Thanks Glenn! I didn't think about the IPR either. I had plans to replace in the next week or two anyways. If you do it first, please let us know the results!