Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!!

 

It is alive!

Great story... In the 80s here today, put a/c back on.

Sent from my Sprint PC36100 using IB AutoGroup

 

Where did you touch it?
You should not get shocked.

Do you self a safety favor. Take you DMM and set it to MΩ (Mega Ohm). On the
power plug at the truck place one probe on the ground pin and one on any of the two other flat blades pins.
You should get a ∞ indication as in open or infinite. If you get any readings other then that there is a short
leaking current to ground. If you don't have a ground pin on the plug then one probe goes to the truck frame/ground
and the other to the plug and the flat blades. Like I said if you have any resistance showing then there is risk of getting
killed if you happen to be standing in a puddle and touch the truck.

Also this is the reason why GFI breakers trip and how to test a cord to see where the problem is.
You can also test tools this way. Current leakage to the case ie. Ground is a bad thing.

Sean

EDIT : I spent too long typing and you go and post that It's ALIVE
<<< At Benny's

 

Are you kidding!? 80's? That's just not even fair!

 

God it Runs Great ICP and IPR% are right where they should Be @ Idle and 2500RPM

IN Fact ICP and IPR% Numbers are so Good I can tell the New HPOP is Tighter vs the OLD HPOP with 103K Miles on it

My First WOT Blast I Blew a CAC Boot Off

Idle Home I was staying close and Fixed the CAC Boot I was surprised How well it ran with a CAC Boot Blown Off


Another Tewst Drive and Hammer Down Again and ***** TO THE WALL IT going Like a Raped Ape again



I touched that Block heater Clear back by the Block to see if it was getting Warm and Its was Warm But slight Shock

IT IS Plugged into a GFCI Outlet

The Plug end at the truck Ground pin Broke off awhile back so that's Tomorrw

Also Forgot to get a New CCV Green Oring SO tHEY ALWAYS STRETCH OUT But I will throw one On tomorrow I think I am going to Install that oring with some silicone Very Little on the inside edge of oring and see if that will hold its shape



But Its Back on the ROAD!!!! Couple Minor things But no Biggie

I would have liked to move My ICP sensor But it just wasn't in the budget at this time Next Time

Thanks Guys for All the HELP I Appreciate It !!! I repped all I could some of you I will catch Later when It lets me

 

Way to go Benny!

 

My Rear 4 Lifters and Canshaft Lobes Looked Great


The more I work on this truck the Easier it getting I get in a bad habbit of rushing and put stuff on before I should have But went good this time

 

Thanks Mark

But I wanted to ask ya if you know if FORD Updated any Parts Inside this Reman HPOP

I saw that the Bolt that hold the Gear on was different Old vs New

I was Kinda hoping that they Upgraded the Pistons and springs n Check *****

Now that might be wishful thinking IDK

 

You would think that they did something to the new one.

I hate to tell you this but the GFI won't do any good without the ground pin. I think it maybe
time for a cord or a new heater. Do the test I can you first. I would add one thing to that
and pull the plug off the heater and test just the cord. It should be ∞Ω on all three and
between each. If this is the case then it the heater element it's self. With access to the plug at
the block one lead on the body where it screws into the block and the other on one of the two
pins. Again you should get ∞Ω on the meter set to MΩ. This is how I used to test the electric
heaters in hot tubs to see if they were safe or not. A guy I worked with could not understand
how I could diagnose one so much faster then he did with his flow chart with step by step
how to.

Also I know that you element is not open and you should read 9~14 Ωon the two flat blades.

I will make a little video and post it when I have some daylight.

Sean

 

Congrats Benny glad you are on the road again I have been following along with ya here.

 

SEAN Here is my thread I started maybe a Week before this HPOP Crap went down on the Block Heater

I Ohmed it the numbers are Here I was Way OFF IIRC I had Like 38ohm between 2 flat Blades the Common and Nuetral

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-stratigy.html

A few others Ohmed theres Maybe it was You LOL I forgot since this HPOP Deal

But theyt was like you say 9-15ohms IIRC

 

Maybe a Tech can comment on that, but I swear I remember seeing something from Ford about some updates on it. I hate to say it, but I am losing the "drive" for trying to keep track of all the changes ...............

 

Nice work Benny.



.

 

I hear Ya LLOTS of Work is what it was Hey this Forums Lots Better Because Of what you have Done

Well you Been GREAT at keeping Up with those changes theres Been Tons I remember the Big Part# Change they did awhile back


Im thinking that we should be Getting to the end of it or Should SLow Down as far as OEM Changes

There will probably always be something in the AFtermarket

Just from Spinning this HPOP in my hand I bet they changed the Pistons and springs/check ***** are new

I just hoped they was upgraded parts Theres Probably a Good chance they are Better



Well I got 103K out the First one Maybe this one will go 250K

 

Congrats on getting your 6.0 back up and going and for keeping us updated, I have been waiting to hear how everything went into the final end before starting her up for a test drive. Good show!