My turn truck breaking down Found it a 2003 HPOP STorey
#258
Where did you touch it?
You should not get shocked.
Do you self a safety favor. Take you DMM and set it to MΩ (Mega Ohm). On the
power plug at the truck place one probe on the ground pin and one on any of the two other flat blades pins.
You should get a ∞ indication as in open or infinite. If you get any readings other then that there is a short
leaking current to ground. If you don't have a ground pin on the plug then one probe goes to the truck frame/ground
and the other to the plug and the flat blades. Like I said if you have any resistance showing then there is risk of getting
killed if you happen to be standing in a puddle and touch the truck.
Also this is the reason why GFI breakers trip and how to test a cord to see where the problem is.
You can also test tools this way. Current leakage to the case ie. Ground is a bad thing.
Sean
EDIT : I spent too long typing and you go and post that It's ALIVE
<<< At Benny's
You should not get shocked.
Do you self a safety favor. Take you DMM and set it to MΩ (Mega Ohm). On the
power plug at the truck place one probe on the ground pin and one on any of the two other flat blades pins.
You should get a ∞ indication as in open or infinite. If you get any readings other then that there is a short
leaking current to ground. If you don't have a ground pin on the plug then one probe goes to the truck frame/ground
and the other to the plug and the flat blades. Like I said if you have any resistance showing then there is risk of getting
killed if you happen to be standing in a puddle and touch the truck.
Also this is the reason why GFI breakers trip and how to test a cord to see where the problem is.
You can also test tools this way. Current leakage to the case ie. Ground is a bad thing.
Sean
EDIT : I spent too long typing and you go and post that It's ALIVE
<<< At Benny's
#259
#260
God it Runs Great ICP and IPR% are right where they should Be @ Idle and 2500RPM
IN Fact ICP and IPR% Numbers are so Good I can tell the New HPOP is Tighter vs the OLD HPOP with 103K Miles on it
My First WOT Blast I Blew a CAC Boot Off
Idle Home I was staying close and Fixed the CAC Boot I was surprised How well it ran with a CAC Boot Blown Off
Another Tewst Drive and Hammer Down Again and ***** TO THE WALL IT going Like a Raped Ape again
I touched that Block heater Clear back by the Block to see if it was getting Warm and Its was Warm But slight Shock
IT IS Plugged into a GFCI Outlet
The Plug end at the truck Ground pin Broke off awhile back so that's Tomorrw
Also Forgot to get a New CCV Green Oring SO tHEY ALWAYS STRETCH OUT But I will throw one On tomorrow I think I am going to Install that oring with some silicone Very Little on the inside edge of oring and see if that will hold its shape
But Its Back on the ROAD!!!! Couple Minor things But no Biggie
I would have liked to move My ICP sensor But it just wasn't in the budget at this time Next Time
Thanks Guys for All the HELP I Appreciate It !!! I repped all I could some of you I will catch Later when It lets me
IN Fact ICP and IPR% Numbers are so Good I can tell the New HPOP is Tighter vs the OLD HPOP with 103K Miles on it
My First WOT Blast I Blew a CAC Boot Off
Idle Home I was staying close and Fixed the CAC Boot I was surprised How well it ran with a CAC Boot Blown Off
Another Tewst Drive and Hammer Down Again and ***** TO THE WALL IT going Like a Raped Ape again
I touched that Block heater Clear back by the Block to see if it was getting Warm and Its was Warm But slight Shock
IT IS Plugged into a GFCI Outlet
The Plug end at the truck Ground pin Broke off awhile back so that's Tomorrw
Also Forgot to get a New CCV Green Oring SO tHEY ALWAYS STRETCH OUT But I will throw one On tomorrow I think I am going to Install that oring with some silicone Very Little on the inside edge of oring and see if that will hold its shape
But Its Back on the ROAD!!!! Couple Minor things But no Biggie
I would have liked to move My ICP sensor But it just wasn't in the budget at this time Next Time
Thanks Guys for All the HELP I Appreciate It !!! I repped all I could some of you I will catch Later when It lets me
#261
#262
#263
Thanks Mark
But I wanted to ask ya if you know if FORD Updated any Parts Inside this Reman HPOP
I saw that the Bolt that hold the Gear on was different Old vs New
I was Kinda hoping that they Upgraded the Pistons and springs n Check *****
Now that might be wishful thinking IDK
But I wanted to ask ya if you know if FORD Updated any Parts Inside this Reman HPOP
I saw that the Bolt that hold the Gear on was different Old vs New
I was Kinda hoping that they Upgraded the Pistons and springs n Check *****
Now that might be wishful thinking IDK
#264
You would think that they did something to the new one.
I hate to tell you this but the GFI won't do any good without the ground pin. I think it maybe
time for a cord or a new heater. Do the test I can you first. I would add one thing to that
and pull the plug off the heater and test just the cord. It should be ∞Ω on all three and
between each. If this is the case then it the heater element it's self. With access to the plug at
the block one lead on the body where it screws into the block and the other on one of the two
pins. Again you should get ∞Ω on the meter set to MΩ. This is how I used to test the electric
heaters in hot tubs to see if they were safe or not. A guy I worked with could not understand
how I could diagnose one so much faster then he did with his flow chart with step by step
how to.
Also I know that you element is not open and you should read 9~14 Ωon the two flat blades.
I will make a little video and post it when I have some daylight.
Sean
I hate to tell you this but the GFI won't do any good without the ground pin. I think it maybe
time for a cord or a new heater. Do the test I can you first. I would add one thing to that
and pull the plug off the heater and test just the cord. It should be ∞Ω on all three and
between each. If this is the case then it the heater element it's self. With access to the plug at
the block one lead on the body where it screws into the block and the other on one of the two
pins. Again you should get ∞Ω on the meter set to MΩ. This is how I used to test the electric
heaters in hot tubs to see if they were safe or not. A guy I worked with could not understand
how I could diagnose one so much faster then he did with his flow chart with step by step
how to.
Also I know that you element is not open and you should read 9~14 Ωon the two flat blades.
I will make a little video and post it when I have some daylight.
Sean
#266
You would think that they did something to the new one.
I hate to tell you this but the GFI won't do any good without the ground pin. I think it maybe
time for a cord or a new heater. Do the test I can you first. I would add one thing to that
and pull the plug off the heater and test just the cord. It should be ∞Ω on all three and
between each. If this is the case then it the heater element it's self. With access to the plug at
the block one lead on the body where it screws into the block and the other on one of the two
pins. Again you should get ∞Ω on the meter set to MΩ. This is how I used to test the electric
heaters in hot tubs to see if they were safe or not. A guy I worked with could not understand
how I could diagnose one so much faster then he did with his flow chart with step by step
how to.
Also I know that you element is not open and you should read 9~14 Ωon the two flat blades.
I will make a little video and post it when I have some daylight.
Sean
I hate to tell you this but the GFI won't do any good without the ground pin. I think it maybe
time for a cord or a new heater. Do the test I can you first. I would add one thing to that
and pull the plug off the heater and test just the cord. It should be ∞Ω on all three and
between each. If this is the case then it the heater element it's self. With access to the plug at
the block one lead on the body where it screws into the block and the other on one of the two
pins. Again you should get ∞Ω on the meter set to MΩ. This is how I used to test the electric
heaters in hot tubs to see if they were safe or not. A guy I worked with could not understand
how I could diagnose one so much faster then he did with his flow chart with step by step
how to.
Also I know that you element is not open and you should read 9~14 Ωon the two flat blades.
I will make a little video and post it when I have some daylight.
Sean
SEAN Here is my thread I started maybe a Week before this HPOP Crap went down on the Block Heater
I Ohmed it the numbers are Here I was Way OFF IIRC I had Like 38ohm between 2 flat Blades the Common and Nuetral
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-stratigy.html
A few others Ohmed theres Maybe it was You LOL I forgot since this HPOP Deal
But theyt was like you say 9-15ohms IIRC
#267
Thanks Mark
But I wanted to ask ya if you know if FORD Updated any Parts Inside this Reman HPOP
I saw that the Bolt that hold the Gear on was different Old vs New
I was Kinda hoping that they Upgraded the Pistons and springs n Check *****
Now that might be wishful thinking IDK
But I wanted to ask ya if you know if FORD Updated any Parts Inside this Reman HPOP
I saw that the Bolt that hold the Gear on was different Old vs New
I was Kinda hoping that they Upgraded the Pistons and springs n Check *****
Now that might be wishful thinking IDK
#269
I hear Ya LLOTS of Work is what it was Hey this Forums Lots Better Because Of what you have Done
Well you Been GREAT at keeping Up with those changes theres Been Tons I remember the Big Part# Change they did awhile back
Im thinking that we should be Getting to the end of it or Should SLow Down as far as OEM Changes
There will probably always be something in the AFtermarket
Just from Spinning this HPOP in my hand I bet they changed the Pistons and springs/check ***** are new
I just hoped they was upgraded parts Theres Probably a Good chance they are Better
Well I got 103K out the First one Maybe this one will go 250K
#270