Turn signals failed
#1
Turn signals failed
My turn signals on my truck(1986 F250 4x4 XLT Lariat Diesel Automatic, say that a few times over ) have quit working. My hazard lights work and I swapped the hazard flasher with the turn signal flasher, and that didn't fix my issue. Fuses all look good too.
Am I looking at replacing the turn signal switch in the column? How difficult is it?
Am I looking at replacing the turn signal switch in the column? How difficult is it?
#2
#3
I have no dash indicators or lights when the switch is activated.
Brake lights work, but reverse lights don't. I can't say for certain if the reverse lights were bad or not prior to this issue.
I know when the signals failed. I signaled as I turned onto my parents driveway, and then drove around their bumpy field to load my truck up. After that I drove back across the field and when I got back to the pavement I hit my signals and they didn't work.
Brake lights work, but reverse lights don't. I can't say for certain if the reverse lights were bad or not prior to this issue.
I know when the signals failed. I signaled as I turned onto my parents driveway, and then drove around their bumpy field to load my truck up. After that I drove back across the field and when I got back to the pavement I hit my signals and they didn't work.
#4
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#8
Sometimes (very rarely-but it does happen) those 2 pole flat fuses can fail and not be detected visually. You can take a paper clip and bend it in a "U" and insert it in the suspected fuse location instead of the fuse. If it turns red and you smell something like burning hair and suddenly have black lines on your thumb and forefinger it's a good indication you have a dead short. JK.
I thought the fuse amperage rating was on the fuse block but maybe it was the door- don't have the truck so I can't check.
But the one thing I can tell you is that I had problems with mine and it was the terminals on the backside of the fuseblock. I would invest in a couple of testers: a probe test light and a multi-meter. I foresee those becoming handy in the near future. You will not regret it. Unless you really enjoy testing 9v batteries with your tongue and the SHOCKING experience of finding out that 120v AC circuit was actually live.
Good luck and maybe someone can post up the correct amperages for you.
I thought the fuse amperage rating was on the fuse block but maybe it was the door- don't have the truck so I can't check.
But the one thing I can tell you is that I had problems with mine and it was the terminals on the backside of the fuseblock. I would invest in a couple of testers: a probe test light and a multi-meter. I foresee those becoming handy in the near future. You will not regret it. Unless you really enjoy testing 9v batteries with your tongue and the SHOCKING experience of finding out that 120v AC circuit was actually live.
Good luck and maybe someone can post up the correct amperages for you.
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EDIT: Oh- and thank you for letting everyone know- A lot of times people just quit posting after their problem is solved.
#12
Reverse lights is a separate circuit, so more than likely a different problem. They are on another fuse. Your fuse diagram should be on the back side of the plastic piece that you take off to access the fuse box.
#13
Answered my own question. 15A is what was listed on the fuse in the socket. My fuse panel does indicate that the turn signals and reverse lights are on the same fuse. I replaced it last night along with the flasher. Eureka! Turn signals and reverse lights working again.
One issue sorted. I just hope there's nothing more that caused the fuse to pop other than it being 25 years old. Tracing electrical problems isn't my idea of a fun time.
One issue sorted. I just hope there's nothing more that caused the fuse to pop other than it being 25 years old. Tracing electrical problems isn't my idea of a fun time.
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