OK, so I'm using a carb from my last 223 that I sold, and the new panel truck's carb was just setting on the manifold. Is there supposed to be a spacer between the carb and the intake manifold? I;m trying to hook up the linkage but the vertical travel is wrong and it could never idle the way it is. If so, how do I get one, or if I make one, how thick is it? Next question is the dip stick. Mine is missing and so I guess I'll make one. What I need is a photo and or some measurements. Overall length, length from hole in block to bottom tip and how far up is the 'full' mark from the bottom tip. Perhaps we should continue our discussions about drive shafts also on this thread. I'm thinking the outa control thread was about finding it, buying it, getting it here and making that fat lady sing. Anyhow, thanks in advance for info. Not rushing into a diesel right away.

 

The original spacer under the carb was a gasket stack made up of several gaskets stapled together, I don't recall how many I made an aluminum replacement years ago.

Can't help with the dip stick I have a front sump passenger car pan.

The 3spd and 3spd OD trans had splines and the single piece drive shaft yoke just slips in. I don't know how the 4spds were set up with the flange, but with a flange only a 2 piece would work I think.

 

GB I don't have any experience to go by. But the book shows this.

 

Gary - the gasket is listed as the same for 215 and 223 engines. It's a stack of six gaskets stapled together in some applications, three in others if I'm reading the Chassis Catalog right....and assuming 57-60 223s are the same as 56 and earlier engines. I went through all this redoing my 215 and got individual Felpro #8013 gaskets at Napa. As for the dip stick, the 52-56 215/223 engines all use the same 16" long dip stick. I have now finished my 215 rebuild, and have two spare 215s sitting. One good and one pieces parts. You're welcome to have the dipstick from the one that's in pieces. Do me a p.m. with your mailing address and I'll drop it in the mail. I've got a couple of the extra gaskets too I'll send if you want them. Stu

 

Geekers! Thanks tons for all the help guys. I will pm you Stu. I'm thinking if half tons were ever available with a 4 spd, then there must be a square 4 bolt flange out there with a u-joint on it and short male or female spline right after the u-joint. I think I could make one from the pieces I have.

 

So Wally,

If the driveshaft on the left has the transmission end at the bottom of the page, then it looks like there is a piece that is connected by u-joint to a 4 bolt flange. Maybe I just need that part, then the rear (long) part of the shaft adjusted for length. Could I just shorten the front shaft really short and use the longer rear driveshaft and spline them together? I s'pose most anything would McGuyver together just to get it moving under it's own power around the place, but why do it twice....

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1387232825
I see what you are saying. Not sure on all your measurements, but if you could keep the front section as short as possible and keep the splines as fully inserted (to eliminate sag and still have space for rear differential movement) as possible. I'm not sure how far from the u-joint you could put the slip joint, without troubles.
I know you will come up with something that works. I'm looking forward to watching this project.

 

And I know your line of reasoning as well. We have never seen a driveline with somewhat equal halves and splines in the middle. That would tend to whip and get worse as the splines wear. I'm guessing the shorter the better. I have two complete flange type drivelines with center carrier bearings, one was in the back of the panel, and my guess the PO got it from a 3/4 ton when he got the 4 speed. The other is from my '60 f350 parts truck. The f350 one is about a foot longer. Just to get moblie around the place I could experiment with the rustier one (3/4ton), and of course it would work in first and second gear around the place. It's a very scary thing to move around on my very steep, hilly property as it is. Picture a 3000 lb skateboard with no brakes, clutch, parking brake or 'in gear'. If it ever got away, it would be a horrendous scene. Especially at my neighbor's place down the hill. Right now I can't commit the shop space for a month or so, so it gets moved as it is 'in the way'.....

 

Yo Gary, it is your lucky day, you can make that carb spacer out of wood! There are close to 3/8" thick. Just cut a paper gasket for each side to seal it up and you are in bussiness. I will have to get back to you on the dipstick. Much to comfortable in the house to go up to the barn tonite. I have one from both a '59 and '60 and I believe they were the same length. By the way, on the drive shaft, what is the overall length you are looking to end up with?

 

The pictured stuff is in the mail, be there first of the week I think. I'd be concerned using wood, if it was me. The gaskets have a foil core with what ever the heat resistant stuff is that replaced asbestos. Six of them in a stack. The old gasket I pulled from mine was no doubt real asbestos and was pretty charred. Stu

 

Hotrodders have used wood for ever back in the day. It prevented heat transfer to keep there carbs cooler. Nowadays they used new fangled stuff such as phenolic something or other but wood will work fine! Why the concern on your part Stu?

 

Nothing other than it being flammable, and seeing the asbestos gasket I replaced. The exhaust sits right below and preheats the intake. If history says it works I naturally defer. Stu

 

By the way Gary, the OEM dipstick is about 13 3/4" long total. The top of the dipstick tube is 8" above the full mark and the add mark at the bottomof the operating region is 3/4" farther down. The original has an additional 1" below that which is tapered the last 3/8" or so. The remaining 4" are above the "stop", and are formed into a loop for gripping. You could of course just make sure it has five quarts in there and make a mark where the level hits the stick!

 

Thanks for all the help and the detective work guys! Just picked up 3 good tires and wheels at the local service station where they got mounted. I have a rim for the fourth, but the tire I found had a small cut where the tread meets the sidewall. Maybe alternating layers of fiberglass cloth and sikaflex polyurethane marine sealant applied to the inside? And I'll measure the driveshaft when the grass under the panel dries out a bit. Was the 4 speed with the 4 bolt output an option from the factory? I do have some 3/8 marine plywood. I could mount a can of baking soda with a trip lever next to it. That's how my mom used to put out fires in the oven! Hmmmm

 

4 spd was an option in pickups, I don't know about in a panel, I've personally have never seen one but anything is possible.