302 turns over but wont start
#1
302 turns over but wont start
Been trying to get the engine in my 302 swapped 85 Bronco II to start, but it just wont. It is an early 80s's i think generic 302, running off a duraspark setup using a tfi coil. I was running this same setup on the 2.8 v6 that came out of the truck. I changed the timing chain and gears, i didnt line it up like i should. but from what I've read it shouldn't matter as both the crank and cam gear are keyed (the set that came off and the set that went on were both generic sets). I was dumb and didn't mark the location of the plugs when i got the engine from my buddy. I have tried putting the wires on nearly every spot on the dizzy, but the most i get is backfiring through the carb. I've run out of things to test, and i am getting no where . Anyone got any suggestions.
#2
Not an authority and most likely a more knowledgeable member will correct me. Having said that, suggest start by establishing #1 TDC on compression stroke, then check timing marks in relation to the position of the rotor and which cylinder it's about to fire. Old school, if not certain which stroke, I remove #1 plug, place finger in opening, then rotate engine until compression forces finger out and immediately stop, I then check timing marks and rotor position, this is just an indicator to determine if in the 'ball park'??
Recently replaced the cam and lifters on 68 302, don't know if there would be any difference with earlier vs later model engines. Slide both sprockets and chain on as a set placing them 6, and 12 o'clock position, the marks were directly across from each other. When the engine would not start I found the distributor was 180 degrees off. Established TDC on #1, removed the distributor and rotated gear until rotor was firing on #1 and it started right up. Am certain I used the marks on timing and cam gears but don't recall if marks and keys were one in the same??
Recently replaced the cam and lifters on 68 302, don't know if there would be any difference with earlier vs later model engines. Slide both sprockets and chain on as a set placing them 6, and 12 o'clock position, the marks were directly across from each other. When the engine would not start I found the distributor was 180 degrees off. Established TDC on #1, removed the distributor and rotated gear until rotor was firing on #1 and it started right up. Am certain I used the marks on timing and cam gears but don't recall if marks and keys were one in the same??
#3
Dave's avice is spot on.
You need to get the engine to Top Dead Center on the compression stroke on #1 cyl.
Once on TDC - you move the distributor to point at the #1 post & snug it down. Then run 1 wire at a time to the plugs.
Run from #1 plug to #1 post.
Then going COUNTER CLOCK WISE
Run the next post to # 5 plug.
Run the next post to #4 plug.
Run the next post to # 2 plug.
Run the next post to#6 plug.
Run the next post to #3 plug.
Run the next post to #7 plug.
Run the last post to #8 plug.
After all of that you will know your wires are right.
You need to get the engine to Top Dead Center on the compression stroke on #1 cyl.
Once on TDC - you move the distributor to point at the #1 post & snug it down. Then run 1 wire at a time to the plugs.
Run from #1 plug to #1 post.
Then going COUNTER CLOCK WISE
Run the next post to # 5 plug.
Run the next post to #4 plug.
Run the next post to # 2 plug.
Run the next post to#6 plug.
Run the next post to #3 plug.
Run the next post to #7 plug.
Run the last post to #8 plug.
After all of that you will know your wires are right.
#4
Dave's avice is spot on.
You need to get the engine to Top Dead Center on the compression stroke on #1 cyl.
Once on TDC - you move the distributor to point at the #1 post & snug it down. Then run 1 wire at a time to the plugs.
Run from #1 plug to #1 post.
Then going COUNTER CLOCK WISE
Run the next post to # 5 plug.
Run the next post to #4 plug.
Run the next post to # 2 plug.
Run the next post to#6 plug.
Run the next post to #3 plug.
Run the next post to #7 plug.
Run the last post to #8 plug.
After all of that you will know your wires are right.
You need to get the engine to Top Dead Center on the compression stroke on #1 cyl.
Once on TDC - you move the distributor to point at the #1 post & snug it down. Then run 1 wire at a time to the plugs.
Run from #1 plug to #1 post.
Then going COUNTER CLOCK WISE
Run the next post to # 5 plug.
Run the next post to #4 plug.
Run the next post to # 2 plug.
Run the next post to#6 plug.
Run the next post to #3 plug.
Run the next post to #7 plug.
Run the last post to #8 plug.
After all of that you will know your wires are right.
#5
Don't panick. It's made of iron & not magic. We will get you on the road.
Worst case we pull the timing gears & reset the heads.
If it's backfiring out the carb that means the spark is popping while the intake valve is open.
It can only do that if the dist. Is in backwards or you spun the crank while the timing chain was off.
Let's leave that last part for later as it doesn't sound that bad.
If you are 1000% sure you have the wires right....reset to TDC on number 1.
That's passenger side closest to the front.
Pop the cap. The point the rotor is pointing to IS number 1.
Double check the wires as above COUNTER CLOCKWISE!!
If you are on TDC on the exhaust stroke you will be 180 out & blowing back through the carb.
If you are TDC on the compression stroke & the wires are good & it still blows back we need to reset the valves on the heads. Not hard to do! But takes a while to explain.
Go give it a try & let us know
Worst case we pull the timing gears & reset the heads.
If it's backfiring out the carb that means the spark is popping while the intake valve is open.
It can only do that if the dist. Is in backwards or you spun the crank while the timing chain was off.
Let's leave that last part for later as it doesn't sound that bad.
If you are 1000% sure you have the wires right....reset to TDC on number 1.
That's passenger side closest to the front.
Pop the cap. The point the rotor is pointing to IS number 1.
Double check the wires as above COUNTER CLOCKWISE!!
If you are on TDC on the exhaust stroke you will be 180 out & blowing back through the carb.
If you are TDC on the compression stroke & the wires are good & it still blows back we need to reset the valves on the heads. Not hard to do! But takes a while to explain.
Go give it a try & let us know
#6
Don't panick. It's made of iron & not magic. We will get you on the road.
Worst case we pull the timing gears & reset the heads.
If it's backfiring out the carb that means the spark is popping while the intake valve is open.
It can only do that if the dist. Is in backwards or you spun the crank while the timing chain was off.
Let's leave that last part for later as it doesn't sound that bad.
If you are 1000% sure you have the wires right....reset to TDC on number 1.
That's passenger side closest to the front.
Pop the cap. The point the rotor is pointing to IS number 1.
Double check the wires as above COUNTER CLOCKWISE!!
If you are on TDC on the exhaust stroke you will be 180 out & blowing back through the carb.
If you are TDC on the compression stroke & the wires are good & it still blows back we need to reset the valves on the heads. Not hard to do! But takes a while to explain.
Go give it a try & let us know
Worst case we pull the timing gears & reset the heads.
If it's backfiring out the carb that means the spark is popping while the intake valve is open.
It can only do that if the dist. Is in backwards or you spun the crank while the timing chain was off.
Let's leave that last part for later as it doesn't sound that bad.
If you are 1000% sure you have the wires right....reset to TDC on number 1.
That's passenger side closest to the front.
Pop the cap. The point the rotor is pointing to IS number 1.
Double check the wires as above COUNTER CLOCKWISE!!
If you are on TDC on the exhaust stroke you will be 180 out & blowing back through the carb.
If you are TDC on the compression stroke & the wires are good & it still blows back we need to reset the valves on the heads. Not hard to do! But takes a while to explain.
Go give it a try & let us know
In this pic where the red line is where i had the rotor pointed when i reset the dizzy a couple of day ago, atleast i thought.
Then in this pic, where the rotor is pointing is where it has landed when i set the engine to TDC twice in a row.
Can this happen, or am i off my rocker?
#7
Your red line is where #1 should be.
You can fix this in a bunch of ways.
The best way is to lift the dist. & spin the rotor to the red line & drop it back in.
I say best way because that is the right way.
Another way you can do it is pit #1 wire on the post the rotor is pointing to & rewire counter clockwise.
That should get you started. Then you can fine tune the timing.
If it were me....I'd pull the dizzy & restab
You can fix this in a bunch of ways.
The best way is to lift the dist. & spin the rotor to the red line & drop it back in.
I say best way because that is the right way.
Another way you can do it is pit #1 wire on the post the rotor is pointing to & rewire counter clockwise.
That should get you started. Then you can fine tune the timing.
If it were me....I'd pull the dizzy & restab
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#8
#9
He's about 160 degrees off. Number one on the cap should be at the 1 o'clock position and the vacuum advance pod should point straight forward towards the radiator. Look at the distributor cap, there's a "1" on the cap at the number 1 position. The rotor needs to be pointing at that post with the number 1 cyliner at TDC on the compression stroke (there are two TDC positions in the firing order in a 4 stroke engine, the crank turns at twice the speed of the distributor and cam, so you need to get the crank at the "right" TDC) Number one cylinder is the first one on the passenger side, then 2, 3 and 4 behind it in the same bank. The drivers side begins with #5 thru #8 going from front to back.
#10
#11
Well, restabbed the dizzy in nearly the exact location I had the ted line and I got nothing with either the non and ho firing order , maybe something else is wrong.
#12
If you have the distributor set to where the rotor is where the red line is located (on the distributor) you're still off by about two teeth. The rotor at that position is pointing at the #5 terminal, not the #1. READ what I posted above. The #1 post on the distributor cap is marked. It should be at the one O'clock position looking at it from the front of the vehicle. You have it at the 12 o'clock position where the red line is on the distributor body. If it's set where the rotor in the picture is sitting, then you're about 120 degrees off, provided the crank was set correctly at the compression stroke TDC.
#13
If you have the distributor set to where the rotor is where the red line is located (on the distributor) you're still off by about two teeth. The rotor at that position is pointing at the #5 terminal, not the #1. READ what I posted above. The #1 post on the distributor cap is marked. It should be at the one O'clock position looking at it from the front of the vehicle. You have it at the 12 o'clock position where the red line is on the distributor body. If it's set where the rotor in the picture is sitting, then you're about 120 degrees off, provided the crank was set correctly at the compression stroke TDC.
#14
shapechanger....juding by the pictures you posted and by the position of your alternator and power steering pump it looks like you have a late model 302...does it have a roller cam? and have you tried putting a 351w firing order on it? (had the same issue with my 302...wouldnt run on an older 302 firing order, hooked up a 351 firing order and boom doneski)
#15
shapechanger....juding by the pictures you posted and by the position of your alternator and power steering pump it looks like you have a late model 302...does it have a roller cam? and have you tried putting a 351w firing order on it? (had the same issue with my 302...wouldnt run on an older 302 firing order, hooked up a 351 firing order and boom doneski)