Well, just a little over 300K on the ticker and I need to replace the clutch on the 93. Just wondering if I could get a little insight from those who have traveled down this path before. Should I pull the transfer case off the trans first or leave it married to the trans and pull it off as a unit? I'm thinking that by separating the two I'll get rid of some of the weight and awkwardness but was wondering if I'm opening up the proverbial can o' worms or not.

I've pulled transmissions before but they were mainly passenger cars so this is my first trans/transfer case pull. If you have any additional tips on the trans pull or clutch replacement, please fill me in.

 

It's been a while but I always just slid the whole deal back, with front driveshaft hanging off and everything.
I don't remember if you can leave the tranny mount and slide the cross member.
I think that was Chevy but maybe you can do that with ford too.

 

Just did this, not that hard at all. Take the T-Case off, you're correct in that it will reduce weight and awkwardness as the T-case is side heavy. There is nothing that will come out or loose when you separate the two. The cross-member doesn't come off for the T-Case, but there is a skid plate that'll have to come off ether way. The cross-member will have to go when you pull the tranny. No special instructions, remove the drivelines, the shifter, the vent hose, wires, speedometer cable, (if so equipped), the six bolts that hold the T-Case to the adapter and slide it back. It is somewhat heavy, but manageable.

A helpful note, the top bolts to the transfer case are easier to access through inside the cab after you pull the tunnel cover off.

This thread has a link to where you can buy the transfer case gasket if you can't find it locally. I couldn't.

 

Thanks for the responses and the link to the gasket for the t-case/tranny. Any others out there with experience? Looks like I've got two very different approaches that will work and I'd like to have a bit more consensus before getting started.

 

My advice, have someone there to help... did this job in my ranger by myself, no jack, just hand tools, not that much fun.

 

NO JACK!!!?

I'm not messin with you!!!

 

Go to Harbor Freight and buy the trans adaptor for your floor jack, either that or make one. Personally I don't pull the tunnel cover on mine but I have a lift and a proper trans jack, so that helps a lot.

 

Haha the TK5 is relatively light, but still... it werent no fun. But to brag just a little... i did carry a 5.0 short block down a set of stairs once.

 

The approaches are different, but they both do work. It depends on what you are comfortable of doing and as mentioned above help means a lot. I never have help on my projects, everyone I ever help disappears when I work on stuff so I work alone. (More beer for me. )

Since I work alone I will do the extra work to disassemble things to make them lighter and easier to handle. If you have the help and the urge to pull both transmission and t-case at the same time, go for it, you won't hurt anything either way.

Help or not, do get a transmission jack, buy or rent, the ones at HF both work fine. I have the smaller one at home and the large one at work. You will need to to safely pull any of the transmissions in the Ford diesels. It is NOT safe to try to balance a transmission on a floor jack, it will slip.

 

Ha, you cheat!

 

+1 for removing the transfer case... The ZF's integrated bell housing is a tight fit between the block and the firewall. Once you get it loose it is a bit tricky to slide it back enough to get the input shaft clear of the clutch. You definitely don't want the lopsided weight of the t-case twisting and rotating the transmission as you guide it back. The ZF by itself weighs ~175 lb, which is enough of a handful. Renting a transmission jack or getting a cradle for your floor jack is a very good idea. Best of luck.

 

I think I've dropped mine 3 times. Took the transfer case off first each time, definitely makes it easier to deal with. I have one of the cheap trans adapters for my jack and it works ok. Making two alignment pins helps as well. Get two bolts that are a little longer than the regular bolts. Cut the head off, and cut a slot in the end for a screwdriver. Put them in the middle spot on either side before. If you get those lined up, and tweak the angle of the tranny, it will slide right in.

 

Awesome information. I do have a tranny jack and a couple of floor jacks so I should be good to go. I'm going to err on the side of caution and split the trans/transfer case as I'll probably be doing this one mostly by myself with additional help if needed.

Figure this would be a good time to install the Banks DP that I bought last year and replace trans & transfer case fluids while I'm at it.