I've been having idling issues with my carb as of late. After the cold snap here, it seems like sometimes my choke doesn't shut off. I don't know much about the Holley carbs but it has an electric choke. It appears to be a 4160 600 cfm carb? I'm not sure how to go about fixing this problem. Here's so e pix of my carb.

I'm not exactly sure what the black lever does, except it seems to go to the tranny?

 

The lever going down to the transmission is the kickdown, when you punch it the lever causes the transmission to go down a gear. Also called passing gear.

You can adjust the choke by loosening the three small screws on the choke and rotating the outer black part of the choke.

Matt

 

Rebuilt the 4160 on the 65 several months ago and as a 1st. timer 'do it myselfer' found the carb fairly basic. Originally intended to swap for remanufactured replacement but it was suggested by sales person that I should rebuild the carb since 'they don't make them like they use to'. Before considering replace or rebuild suggest check fuel level, then idle mixture; I close the mixture valve needle, not too tight, then back out approx. 1 1/2 turns, usually enough for the engine to run and fine tune from there. Not familiar with the electric choke and whether disconnect would allow to eliminate as a possible problem. At this point I would check the timing, keeping in mind any adjustment in timing requires readjusting idle mixture, and vice versa.

 

Thanks Dave. I'm also wondering if I can just disconnect it. I'm seriously considering buying an Autolite 2100 from a fellow member just for ease of tuning and manual choke.

 

I would probably perform a basic tune-up to determine if the problem is electric or fuel, the tune-up components could be used whether rebuild or replace. I would also include an aerosol can of carb cleaner and squirt some down carb once it get running in event carbon blockage; if it works, then just replacing idle mixture needles, idle needle gaskets, power valve, etc., would be all that is needed??? From pic's appears there's possibly a leak in idle mixture needle on driver side??

Hmmm, not familiar with the Autolite 2100, converting from 4bbl to a Autolite 2bbl, if decide to swap may want to look at the Autolite 4100?? Wonder what FTE members familiar with Autolite would suggest if posted in 'fuel/carb' forum, rebuild or replace??

Know Holley offers an electric to manual choke conversion kit and assume Autolite would offer same??

 

Autolite 2100 carbs are 1/2 of a 4100. Same carb but two barrel. Excellent carb with annular boosters. These came standard on F100's. No fuel bowls to pull and leak fuel. The top is removeable to access jets. These carbs will run with top removed. If I had a stock engine I'd be running one.

 

Curious, with the existing 4160 4bbl intake manifold if it would require some type of block off plate to convert to a 2bbl system, or would it involve swapping intake manifolds?

 

Good question. My current manifold LOOKS stock, so they would have had to put some kind of adapter on it to go from 2 bl to 4? So I would imagine you would have to install a plate to go the other way...

 

You may have a car manifold on your truck. You would need a 2 barrel manifold to convert back. There are numbers and letters cast into your intake.They will tell the story.

 

JMO, but I like electric chokes for everyday use. There are a few things you need to check.
Make sure you have a 12 volt positive (+) connection to the (+) side on the choke all the time when the ignition is on. Also make sure you have a good ground on the negative side of the choke - it is not grounded on the inside. I've seen a couple times where the wire clips that clip to the choke cover loose and only making contact sporadically.

As noted above, you need to make sure the choke blade is adjusted correctly. With the ignition OFF and a COLD motor, loosen the 3 screws holding the choke cover and rotate the cover until the choke blade 'just' hits the closed point. Do NOT turn it more than that 'just' touching point. Tighten the screws.

The 'red' arm you see in the picture must be free of any dirt or build up for the choke to operate correctly. Get a can of 'brake cleaner' and spray that entire area around that 'red' arm. I like brake cleaner better than carb cleaner because it's not as damaging to gaskets and other parts especially if you have a painted manifold or a clear coated aluminum manifold. After you clean the area, hold the choke blade open and make sure that 'red' arm will 'lift' and 'fall' free when you lift it up and drop it.

When you get all that set up, you may find you need to re-adjust the idle.

Good luck

 

Nice, thanks. That's what I was looking for! I noticed the PO wired the positive from the choke to the positive wire on the coil, not directly to the coil, but spiced in about 5inches before...

 

That's fine as long as its only hot when the ignition is in the 'ON' position. The positive side of the coil should only be hot with the ignition on. You might still want to put a meter on the (+) post of the choke cover and wiggle all the connection to see if the meter starts jumping around. Then you know you may have a loose connection. Again, check the ground side on the cover - I've seen em loose or corroded...

 

I've rebuilt so many of those(600's, 750's, 800 dbl pumper) I could do it in the dark with both hands tied behind my back. Ran 'em for 20 years and never did have a choke that worked like it should. That was until I bought a Ford, built by Holley carb. Looks just the same, but it works sooooo much better. Came off an '83 460 IIRC
Start by resetting the idle mixture. I found I could help the choke by cheating the idle mixture. The mixture screws are on either side on the metering body, both appear in your photo's, one is located below the vacuum advance port. Screw 'em in until they just bottom out, not tight. Then back out each 1 1/2 turns and fire it up. Turning out is richer, in leaner. Adjust them both the same amount until you achieve the best idle.
You might also check the float level. With the engine running smoothly, unscrew the screw in the side of the bowl just forward of the advance port, use a large screwdriver.
The fuel level should be right at the bottom of the hole. To raise / lower, use that same large screwdriver along with a 5/8" wrench, place both on the needle and seat located on top of the bowl, break the screw loose first, then turn the wrench out to raise, in to lower. Repeat on the rear bowl.
You might want a buddy handy to shut her off in case gas comes pouring out of the bowl. This should be done with the obvious hazards considered and mitigated.
Adjust choke as mentioned, but all that really does is increase or decrease the time your choke is on, to some level the amount of choke too.
The only other external adjustment is accelerator pump. Engine off, hold it wide open. The lever that runs under the bowl should have some minimal (0.010")amount of additional downward travel with WOT. Adjust the bolt length with the spring in it to achieve desired results.
Good luck - these things are super simple