I picked up a used plow for my F350 project.. Not knowing much about it I assumed it was all correct..
It is the setup very similar to the belt driven pump/cable actuated valve body.. The difference being this one has an electric pump that is switched on when you work the joystick.(little ball switch behind the lever)
I have done some searching, and joined up to plowsite and have not found much on this set up, mostly belt driven or right to minute mount solenoid stuff.
Anyone familiar with these set ups? Did they come out in the 80's or is this even older.. Not much on fisher site about the pump itself...

I tested the motor before I went nuts trying to find a place to mount and plumb/wire it..just about a dead short...
So do I take a chance possibly rebuilding the motor not knowing about the pump, or search out a belt driven pump which I think may be hard finding specific brackets for the 6.9 idi ???
I tried plowsite sometime last year with not much response, guess I could take another stab at it..
TIA

 

you have a electric pump that runs your plow pretty much the same setup as a western plow. you can install new brushes in the pump motor or just buy a rebuilt pump motor. the wiring should be about the same as wiring up a western plow. Do you have all the wiring and plow switch that goes with this plow setup?

 

Did you try and hook the motor up? Use large jumper cables to a car battery, and don't be afraid of a few sparks, they draw a lot of current. If it still doesn't go, I would just take it apart, it might just be bound up.

I bought a used Meyer plow for my truck and had the same problem, water had gotten down into the motor and it corroded. I took it apart and freed it up, and it worked fine. The brushes were worn so I got some new ones, and it has worked for about 7 seasons now. Just mark all the sections with a permanent marker or a small chisel so you get it all back together like it was before. I put rtv on all the joints so it would not leak water inside again.

 

I did get the light harness and joystick with the motor switch.. I will have to provide the heavy gauge wire for the motor, and I think it needs a new solenoid..

well I tried to cheat with a 10 amp charger, but upon sticking the ohm meter across it , it was reading like 4 ohms..i assumed that was too close to a short???
I will give it a shot..
Thanks guys

 

I popped the cap. The armature and pump are free.. not sure how big the brushes should be, but there is plenty of brush dust in there.. The Prestolite tag on the side is quite worn.. Not sure what the exact model is. It has 4 brushes.. they are about 3/8" long...
Diving into new territory here.. Always good to learn something new

 

That 10 amp battery charger is probably not big enough to turn the motor. Get a set of jumper cables and go directly to the battery and see what happens. When you wire it up permanently, go to the store and get those universal 4 or 6 guage battery cables with the eyes on both ends(like go from the Ford solenoid to the starter). That's how big of a cable you are going to need to run this plow motor.

You will need a short one from your battery + to the plow solenoid, and then a long one to go through the grill or wherever you mount the motor. You will then need another large one to go from a good ground point on the motor to the neg of the battery or a good spot on the engine for a good ground.

I didn't get a solenoid with mine, I used a old Ford starter solenoid and it has been working fine the last 7 seasons also. I had to make my own controls, and I made everything up and made a new harness and switch box. The only thing I could not find was the up and down toggle switch, I had to get that from the plow dealer. It was a special switch that was momentary one direction for the plow up, maintained in the middle for blade hold, and maintained down for blade float.