So I am wondering what steering box I have installed. Everything I've read is the stock box has a 3 bolt mounting pattern. However the box has 4 bolts and is mounted on a bracket (I'll try linking my photobucket at the bottom). I'm trying to figure this out as the pitman arm gets rubbed when I make a full left turn. My 76 F250 is sitting on 35x12.50's. I've heard talk of crossover steering to upgrade the steering. Now I'm wondering if I have a good box already installed how difficult it would be to finish the mod to crossover? From the axle code looks like I have a Ford? front end (had to re-look at vin decoder the right way not sure what front end I have cause it only says Ford). Looks to me like I could unbolt the "drag link?" from the knuckle, and swap the attaching parts between the driver and passenger side? It looks like it's a spacer on the passenger side that holds up the brake line could be removed with fairly little problem. I don't have pictures of that right now. So here goes my attempt to upload pictures of the steering box.

 

Nobody? Through some digging I discovered I have a Dana 44, closed flat top knuckles.

 

I can't say I've ever seen one like that but I know where it would be going. I did the 78/79 4wd box swap and it was worth it for clearance and ease of steering.

 

Also I don't see how that would ever work for crossover steering the way the pitman arm comes off the box. A 78/79 Dana 60 is easiest to do crossover which is what I used but they cost a lot. You can do it with a d44 but it's a lot more of a pain plus you would need to lift it some for the crossover to clear the springs.

 

Here's a 2nd one I built same as mine for example. I don't have any closer pics on my photobucket at the moment.

 

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking I might be able to get it to work for cross over if I take it off the bracket and mount it to the same outside part of the frame. This would put the pitman arm under the frame. However looking at spring clearance I can see what you mean about lifting. I may look into the inverted T setup, or just get a 78/79 box for clearance and not worry about trying to change a whole bunch of steering components since I'd have to move the current box anyway. I plan on trying to dig as much of the grime off that box as I can to see if I can pull any part numbers or other identifying info off of it.

 

I would say that setup is off of a 1972 - 1977 Dodge. I know the first Gen. people (me included) use that setup to get rid of the frame cracking problem. It might be worth something to the right person.

http://www.dieseltruckresource.com/d...2-t301769.html

 

Thanks for the reply with a bit more info as to what it might be. If I could find a way to keep the 35's and not rub the pitman arm I'd stick with this setup. Once I get done replacing some seals to shore up some of the leaks under the truck I might take it to the local off road shop to see if they can do anything for me.

 

Sorry that I replied and made this a zombie thread.....Just keep in mind that that 76 HB should have rear leaf springs (and hangers) that are 2 1/4 wide. So when ordering replacement leaf's make sure you get HB specific springs. All others will be 3" wide and the spring hangers will be that way also.

I swear it had a recent date, that is why I replied.

 

Really easy to do ....