Yes I agree. Why since 180 thermostat installed. I left parked for 1 hour it started right up and 1000 ft later my gauge was pinned high. It took almost a gallon and engine temp rose over 205 degrees in 5 minutes. The engine kept hot for 1 hour and lost agallon where did it disappear?

 

Start from cold, cap off. Water level a couple of inches down from the fill neck. Can you see water flow when the thermostat opens? Does it flow well or just a lazy river? Once it warms up and the thermostat opens there should be very noticeable flow. If not, that needs to be addressed.
If there is good flow, verify timing with a timing light and verify advance (as best you can with the tools than you can get your hands on). I think of timing because you mentioned that it got hot very quickly.
Then we could try to pin it down some more.
Beg, borrow, or buy a black light and look for the fluorescent tracer used in antifreeze. Look at the exhaust. Look at the water pump weep holes. Look at the heads and intake seals. Look at the Welch plugs. Of course, you may have to get a hose and wash off any traces of prior spills first.

Here's another thought: I had a clogged steel overflow line on the radiator when I first got Albatross. That caused pressures to skyrocket. Does your radiator overflow properly?

 

It sounds like either you got a bad thermostat, or installed it upside-down. Or your water pump is no good. Could be all 3!

Let's start at the beginning; what do you know of the engine's history? Is this an engine that was previously running while you owned it, with no problems such as this? Or is it new to you, was sitting for a long time, etc? Most trucks get parked because there are problems. If they are parked long enough, they develop problems.

 

Ok I cannot find an adapter to fit on radiator to pressure test system,went to 5 auto places nothing that big.Had truck for 3 yrs, Boiled out radiator,new hoses,never changed water pump.Truck always had water issue nothing like this.The cap that came with truck is old brass on inside with 5 holes under cap? No idea what cap this is,my problems started when I bought a new 4lb cap for 25.00$ from dennis carpenter.I asked for original replacement and said this was it.I remember looking somewhere in ford book and it showed listing for 2 caps vented and non vented,everyone says this is the right cap.I put 4000 miles on truck in 4 yrs was running fine.The water pump bothers me because I cant find weep holes there is brazing on both sides of pump like it was repaired no place to leak.I had plenty of flow in radiator without thermostsat when installed and after install it opened at 180 some movement in fluid.I am going to napa and get a stant thermostat today and putting original cap back on,I also drained 1 gallon from radiator for thermostat replacement and after running 15 minutes only took half to fill? I get flow out of overfill tube,not clogged.once stat is opened it is like lazy river just barely moving,could that be the water pump,? it flows fast with no stat,Thanks

 

Vented (closed system) caps are for use with an overflow tank. The overflow hose simply needs to end at or near the bottom of the tank. Non-vented (open system) caps are for use with an overflow hose that (typically) simply drains onto the ground. A cooling system must be able to allow excess coolant to escape as things heat up and expand. A "closed" system will pull some of that excess fluid back in (from the overflow tank) as things cool down. As for weep holes in the water pump, they are there to allow any fluid (and there will always be some small amount) that gets past the seal to evaporate and/or drain harmlessly away rather than corrode and eventually gum up and destroy the bearings. They also allow more serious leakage to be seen and, thus, give warning that your seal has failed before the bearings seize. If it were mine, those holes would not be brazed shut or plugged in any way. When I rebuild a water pump, I ream out the holes to assure that they work as intended.

 

I just pulled thermostat and it was gummed up and made a suction. Noise when unbolted. I new to drain block and remove this stuff

 

It sounds like you're on to the root of the problems. Please keep us posted.

 

Thanks I will

 

Update flushed engine2x with water. Both rad hoses off.flushed radiator 2x by itself. Filled with water drove 10 miles temp at 150. Came home water level same. Also noticed after. Flush radiator moving faster and a breather hole started working inside of neck of rad. Should I install new 160 stat and there is straight water In. This what mix is good live in SC ?? Water In tailpipe hardley any. Thanks

 

Not sure what you mean by "breather hole inside neck of radiator" -- the overflow connection? It sounds like you're on the way to a solution, although I can't figure how condensation/water in the exhaust is related to inadequate cooling. I guess the head could have been distorting from lack of cooling? By all means put in the thermostat and see how it does. I'd open up the weep hole in the WP too.

 

I would run a 50% mix for the coolant .

 

Just under overflow location in neck. Front of radiator little hole when acclerating water pushed out of hole under cap OK I will install thermostat run straight water for now? Can't find weepholes in water pump both sides of pump have. Brazilng material is this location?

 

There shouldn't be any holes in the filler neck except for the overflow connection.

Weepholes are usually on the top and bottom side of the hub. If the holes were brazed closed, I'm guessing it's for a reason -- it's leaking. Flat-6 WP's are hard to find, can only be rebuilt (no one sells them), but I'd start looking... the bearings can't be any good after being flooded with water.

Is it freezing at night where you are? BE CAREFUL if it is, last thing you need is to freeze the block.

 

Ok.its been a long week.update on leak.Retorqued head bolts 2 cycles 2x.Installed thermostat the proper way meaning filled head first then radiator,put 160 degree with 50/50.Took a while to open but it did and keeping constant level above fins.I flushed motor 3x and radiator 2x seems fine,only water out tailpipe on morning start from all night.I put over 300 miles so far ,but I was using a lot of fuel for a 1 barrel .Readjusted timing and carb screw seem better time will tell.I don't know what 1 thing fixed my problem ,I think the head finally adjusted to block? Anyway you guys are great all your posts and the time you spent with me was great,this kind of help is hard to find,everyone just wants your money to change parts,they have no clue about these engines,again thank you all and Happy Holidays and Merry Christmas,Keep in touch

 

Thank you for keeping us posted. Good luck with it, long may she run.