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  #1  
Old 12-10-2013, 04:29 PM
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Truck in the shop everyone is stumped

This is a long description-sorry guys. I need help though.

So I've been batteling my hard start running rough problem for a while now. I posted a while back about a few things so I'll recap real quick.
I had a check engine light with a few codes (P1211 ICP above/below desired level, P1209, P1280 Injection control circuit out of range, P1316 IDM code). I decided to do a few upgrades to the fuel & oil system which included a regulated fuel return and an oil rail X-over from Riff Raff while troubleshooting. I also pulled the IPR & refreshed it with a cleaning and new o-rings. Once those mods were done I went to start and of course I got the air in the oil system sysmptoms (long cranks & running rough). After driving for 75 miles the symptoms got better but never went away. I thought maybe I got some fuel or oil in one of the electrical connectors so I pulled each conector and sprayed them out with electrical cleaner, no change. Then I pulled the wiring harness (which was soaked in oil from the previous owner) I cleaned it all up with brake cleaner and re-installed it. I also replaced the ICP and oil pressure sensor on top of the HPOP. Still no change. Frustrated I took it to a recommended shop here in O.C. They replaced the UVC gaskets and UVC wire harnesses and pulled 2 injectors (one from each bank) to flow test them. The flow test came out good and they verified the injectors had new o-rings from the previous owner.

After all that, my truck still has long cranking times (8-10 seconds), still runs rough and is ball-less in the higher RPM renge. Here's where it gets stupid. They say my problem lies in a lack of boost, and it's only producing 8 psi. They say my up pipes are badly leaking causing my boost to drop off. I drove the truck and yes it only hit 8-9 psi. When I dropped the truck off to them a few days ago it was boosing at 17-18. When I brought it in to them I had the waste gate actuator plugged off due to the actuator hanging open slightly. I pulled over to check, sure enough they reconnected it. I plugged it off again and it was back up to 18 psi. The problems are still the same, and still losing top end power even with good boost. I'm picking up the truck tomorrow and I've asked them to perform an IPR duty cycle test. We'll see what they say.

Before I did all this, the truck ran good and started normal. It just had a check enging light and a front motor oil leak. Right now I'm stumped & I'm out $1,500 for the shop to give me back my truck in the same condition as I gave it to them. Please help! Thanks FTE.
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Old 12-10-2013, 04:40 PM
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Man that sucks. I hate the feeling of not having control over what someone is doing to your truck. Cost me 5k last time I took it to someone. Granted it ran good again, but only stock good, and I know for 5k I could have made it bad ***. I am sure someone can help you out here.
Do you know what kind of fuel pressure you are getting? I would think that would be a question they are going to ask.
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Old 12-10-2013, 04:51 PM
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It had around 55 psi at the fuel bowl last week. Under hard acceleration it went down to about 52 or so.
Ouch $5k hurts for sure. At least it's fixed now though.
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:04 PM
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I should also add that when my truck was running good I hooked up a pressure gage to the passenger oil rail and another gage to the fuel filter bowl. I ran enough steal braded line to make the gages visible from the passenger seat. I also suction cupped my gopro helmet cam to the windshield to record the gages while testing.
Under hard acceleration in 2nd gear (automatic) the oil would spike to around 2,800 psi then level out around 2,400. The fuel pressure hovered around 55 at idle & cruising then dropped to about 52 psi under acceleration. This was performed only with the chip in the stock #1 setting on my Banks 6 gun.
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:08 PM
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Pull the tuner (or switch to stock) for starters and see where you're at. 17-18 PSI is about stock boost, but I know from experience that the ICP can tank and you can still make boost (albeit with high EGTs).

What you really need is a WOT run to 80 MPH while recording the following criteria on a scan tool like AE:


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Old 12-10-2013, 05:45 PM
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Thanks Tugly. Wish I had an AE scan tool. I can pick one up for around $450 from Clay but I'm at a stand still with funds at the moment until after xmas. My buddy has a high end snap on scan tool, would that work?
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mototrig View Post
Thanks Tugly. Wish I had an AE scan tool. I can pick one up for around $450 from Clay but I'm at a stand still with funds at the moment until after xmas. My buddy has a high end snap on scan tool, would that work?
I would think so.
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Old 12-10-2013, 06:43 PM
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Ok I'll see what I can do for the scan tool. But for the time being what are the chances I have a wiring issue? I said earlier that my wiring harness was oil soaked and a bit brittle. Are there any KOEO meter readings I can take at any of the sensors with a multimeter? I mean aside from the obvious checking for a good ground and good power to the harness?
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:47 PM
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By any chance, did you take the fuel filter out and put it back in? Maybe the top is loose or its got a pinched oring?
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carltonwebb View Post
By any chance, did you take the fuel filter out and put it back in? Maybe the top is loose or its got a pinched oring?
Yes I replaced the fuel filter when I installed the FRx. No fuel leaks. I can check the fuel pressure again tomorrow night.
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:22 PM
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you said an oil leak in the front....is there a chance that your low pressure oil pump may be going out?

could cause the long starts, as well as falling on its face at higher RPM (not enough oil to maintain pressure necessary, but enough to keep from setting a code)...

If I remember correctly, the lower than desired can be 2 or 300psi below desired, while the higher can be 500psi above.
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:23 PM
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:53 PM
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I too have an '02 and had issues with a 'miss' for some time. I also had brittle insulation of the passenger side wiring to the VC which I painted with electrical tape to get me by until I had a chance to fix some of these items. I replaced the ICP regulator, both UVCH's, new GP's and finally a new complete wiring harness from the 42-pin plug back over the engine. I rebuilt the old ICPR - took it completely apart, first thinking a good spray cleaner would work, but after taking it apart noticed there was some nasty thick oil in the inner part. Now I have a good rebuilt one as backup. That wiring harness was very brittle after all my miles and years. I have always run synthetic 5W-40 year round and also plug it up at night especially during the winter. Now that 7.3 runs smoother than ever!

Hope the best for you,
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Old 12-10-2013, 11:24 PM
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Swap in your spare cps and see if anything changes.
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
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Swap in your spare cps and see if anything changes.
I think you're confusing me with Ihud. I don't have a spare CPS.
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:21 AM
 
 
 
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