Monte's 04 Build Thread
#976
Doesnt seem bad at all to pull her. Thanks for the hydroboost info! It will probably take me a few hours lol especially sincrnj will be alone until i pull the engine probably.
Fpr your radiator did you use the 5.4l radiator? People go back and forth about using the 5.4l radiator or the 6.0l one when swapping in a cummins so naturally i have no idea what onw to use most say its fine others say no lol.
Fpr your radiator did you use the 5.4l radiator? People go back and forth about using the 5.4l radiator or the 6.0l one when swapping in a cummins so naturally i have no idea what onw to use most say its fine others say no lol.
#977
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
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Yes there will be the two mounts your easiest course of action would be to first pull everything off the front of the truck radiator, trans cooler, steering cooler, AC condenser and upper core support (3 bolts on each side). Next disconnect all wires and hoses from the motor to body. If you are removing all in one with trans and transfer case connected I suggest taking the intake off the motor so you can get it high enough to clear everything. roll your hoist in and get it hooked in as far down and back as you can into the valley. Jack it up to support the engine. Next unbolt the trans cross-member from both the frame and the trans and slide it away. Your next step is a choice of unbolt the motor mounts from the motor or the cradle. I chose the cradle as I was able to hit them with an impact and I was not going to use the originals anyway. Once that's all done it should be able to jack up and slide out. You may have to have a buddy pull down on the front of the engine if you don't use a leveler to bring the transfer case up level enough to clear the bottom core support and engine cradle. Should be able to get it pulled in under and hour.
As far as the hydro you will just need the booster and master correct. it has the rod that goes through the firewall to connect to your current pedal and brake switch. Mine was off by about a 1/4" for one of the mounting bolts so I did have to enlarge one of the holes in the firewall to bolt it in.
As far as the hydro you will just need the booster and master correct. it has the rod that goes through the firewall to connect to your current pedal and brake switch. Mine was off by about a 1/4" for one of the mounting bolts so I did have to enlarge one of the holes in the firewall to bolt it in.
Trav
#978
#979
#980
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Are you going to put an insert of some sort in the hood? I think it will look even better but that is my opinion.
Trav
#981
What is everyone's opinion on an LS in the front axle? i know its open factory but is there an advantage or disadvantage i wanted to pull both axles and paint/ replace any worn parts like on the front axle balljoints etc because they were going before i parked her.
#984
#986
Never thought about an over axle dump.. that's a good idea!
Thanks i will probably run a diesel radiator then they are cheap relative to intercoolers lol.
I will be doing it all myself, i listed thw 12v and out it on a dolly myself that was sketchy lol that thing weighs a ton! Moving it on the dolly is even sketchy it takes so much effort to get rolling lol.
Thanks i will probably run a diesel radiator then they are cheap relative to intercoolers lol.
I will be doing it all myself, i listed thw 12v and out it on a dolly myself that was sketchy lol that thing weighs a ton! Moving it on the dolly is even sketchy it takes so much effort to get rolling lol.
#987
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I know I am going to have that on the 92 F250 once I get it built.
Matt I think dump over the axle would be sweet I really like them on diesels but I heard dumps cause the bed to crack because of the heat from the exhaust going on to the cold bed. Not sure though.
Trav
#988
#990