If you're not going to drive it between when the body work is done and when the motor stuff is done. wouldn't it be better to do the motor and trans and everything first and then have the body work done so you don't potentially scratch or dent anything in the process? Just thinking out loud. Kinda Jealous though, I've been wanting a Cowl hood for years. Just can't justify it if this one starts to peel and chip any worse, I may opt to get one instead of getting the factory one painted. Can't wait to see it fitted up.

 

That's actually a very good point...maybe i can live with it at the body shop for a week or two after it's done lol. Honestly i wouldn't have gotten the hood if i didn't get it so cheap through amazon. I will have it mounted tonight and have pics posted!

Also i just got back to work from picking up the Allison the guy wasn't going to be around tomorrow or this weekend so i left for an hour picked up the F150 and went over to get it. He put it on a pallet so he could pick it up with a fork lift and wrapped it all up or me to keep it dry if it rains. I will get a pick before i head to school tonight, i don't have a way to get it off so it's coming to school with me and then home lol.

 

You must trust your area a lot more then I trust my area. LOL
If I left a transmission in the bed of a truck around here for more then 5 minutes with nobody around it wouldn't be their when I came back. Of course people around here know what trucks are ours (usually since we change so much) so they would usually stop them if they see somebody else getting in the truck. Also most my buddies around here don't take to kindly to people stealing. LOL
Trav

 

Yeah well its on campus at my school only reason k trust it and i can see it from my classroom window lol so otherwise j wouldn't leave it. I cobered it too and its backed in so unless someone literally walks all yhe way over just to look in my bed in the corner of the lot nobody will even see it. Not to mention nobody at my school knows wtf a transmission looks like except a few of my buddies that i talk to about cars lol.

 

Good news...i got out of class and the tranny was still there lol I'm on my way home now and I'll have to get creative getting it off yhe truck and into the garage lol.

 

Well i got the hood on tonight i love the looks of it! i think the bumper and once its painted it will look way better. The fit is really nice and leaves the same gaps that the stock hood left, I need to adjust it a little more but i almost have it on perfect on the first shot lol.




Will definitley get some better pics in the morning but here are some of the F150 loaded up and working carrying its big brothers new transmission.



My brother and i carried the transmission into the garage from the bed of the 95 by our selves so it wasnt as bad as i was originally anticipating i guess it only weighs 320-350 lbs and both him and i are big dudes lol.

 

Some more morning shots at the same angles but you can see better lol

 

sweet....nice hood

 

Looks good man!

 

Loking good Matt! Are you going to try to make it functional?

 

Thanks guys, Justin I am going to try to currently the only set up they have is for the air filter on the driers side however with the 12v it needs to be on the passenger side. I may try my fiberglass work out and make a mirrored version of their kit and run it to the passenger side air filter.


Question for you guys, actually mainly BigBee whats involved in pulling one of these engines? I am trying to figure out what I will need to disconnect in order to pull the 5.4l out and set my alli/12v combo in to get an idea and to start rigging up some mounts for the transmission and turbo's eventually.


My main goal is by the end of winter to have the rear done and to have the 5.4l almost pulled or basically ready to be removed I figured this way I can rest the bed back on the truck bolt her down then get her on some dollies and rotate it 90* against the back of the garage giving my parents and me space up front to work and store everything.


Big I also have a question about hydroboosting everything, did you just need the booster and master cylinder to complete it no pedals or anything? I obviously need to make the switch since I am doing the same thing you did but with a 12v.


Also guys you probably don't want to hear this but I think I may go with some stacks for an exhaust... A normal Exhaust is going to be tough to run the Ex tank and before the rear wheels the springs will be in the way so my other option since MA is strict about it being behind the cab I hear is those bed side exit ones or stacks. Stacks would be easy to have body work done on the cab corners because they can be removed to the 90* point and then the bed an be unbolted and slid back some.

 

Truck looks great.




As far as pulling the engine my one piece of advice is when it doesn't want to come check again their isn't any bolts or wires. On the mustang I had just one bolt holding me up from finishing and my buddy kept saying it was something else until the last second before wrapping it up I found it.
Trav

 

Thanks Trav, I know the Transmission is easy it's just the rear bolts on the cross member but as far as the engine mechanical wise it's just two mounts correct? I can figure out the harness relatively easy I bed just got a lot of wiring to chase lol.

 

Their is a couple wires probably to the transmission too. I almost ripped the wires on my 94 Explorer pulling the trans back.


Their should be just those mounts, whatever accessories, any brackets, and the ground cable bolts. This is to my knowledge I have never pulled a modular engine. Newest I have ever pulled was a 2000 ranger 3.0L engine in swap for a 98 ranger 3.0L engine for my buddy.
Trav

 

Yes there will be the two mounts your easiest course of action would be to first pull everything off the front of the truck radiator, trans cooler, steering cooler, AC condenser and upper core support (3 bolts on each side). Next disconnect all wires and hoses from the motor to body. If you are removing all in one with trans and transfer case connected I suggest taking the intake off the motor so you can get it high enough to clear everything. roll your hoist in and get it hooked in as far down and back as you can into the valley. Jack it up to support the engine. Next unbolt the trans cross-member from both the frame and the trans and slide it away. Your next step is a choice of unbolt the motor mounts from the motor or the cradle. I chose the cradle as I was able to hit them with an impact and I was not going to use the originals anyway. Once that's all done it should be able to jack up and slide out. You may have to have a buddy pull down on the front of the engine if you don't use a leveler to bring the transfer case up level enough to clear the bottom core support and engine cradle. Should be able to get it pulled in under and hour.


As far as the hydro you will just need the booster and master correct. it has the rod that goes through the firewall to connect to your current pedal and brake switch. Mine was off by about a 1/4" for one of the mounting bolts so I did have to enlarge one of the holes in the firewall to bolt it in.