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Borderbum's Diesel "Bandit"

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  #31  
Old 12-10-2013, 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
What year it the diesel parts truck you have now? I would guess it would have a hydra boost system and that if would work?

1989 . It didn't look any different than a regular brake booster....
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:42 AM
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I believe it looks like this, there are some businesses that sale conversion kits....

Not to sure on what year vehicle you are exactly looking for for your swap??
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 08:00 AM
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The ones I've seen were pressurized by the power steering pump and were generally Government motors vehicles.
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 09:02 AM
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The later Ford diesels had them also. In fact, I just replaced a pump and boost unit on a '99 1 ton Ford dually. The hydraboost eliminated the need for a vacuum pump which Jeff's engine likely has, since it had a normal booster on it. The vacuum pump should be on top, next to the alternator.
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 03:39 PM
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Prothane body bushings or rubber?
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 05:43 PM
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I never noticed a difference in ride between the two. Urethane will definitely last longer. Rubber will last 20 years or more. How long are going to own the truck?
 
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Old 12-10-2013, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by earthquake68
I never noticed a difference in ride between the two. Urethane will definitely last longer. Rubber will last 20 years or more. How long are going to own the truck?

Don't plan on getting rid of them, since I'm starting major surgery with Bandit, might as well start getting parts. I know ill have to put a body lift on there so might as well start with new body mounts, new bolts and the new bl.
 
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Old 12-11-2013, 09:28 AM
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If I may ask how are you positive that you need a body lift yet? Or it that the word on the web, just curious, that's all.

The only different in the poly versus rubber in reality is the cost and color options. Red is the common color used by Energy Suspension.

energysuspension.com | Welcome

Race trac trim goes on everything easy with new mount hdwr, LMC has it and all the other repro bushiness.

If you do not have the holes in the first place in the bed door or fender, its a measure 5X's times and drill once deal.
 
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:05 PM
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Rich, I've read about the bl from three different builds on this site, and a couple off the other sites and or YouTube. One says 2 inches would be fine, but if you ever want to add on a turbo kit, you need 3 inches of bl.
 
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Old 12-11-2013, 02:12 PM
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Then get a 3" and Alan will put it on to, and it will sturdy.
 
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:42 PM
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Body lift is too easy. No sweat. ...cheap too. About $130 for the whole kit with hardware.
 
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Old 12-11-2013, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by earthquake68
Body lift is too easy. No sweat. ...cheap too. About $130 for the whole kit with hardware.
Yeah, easy stuff, Ive done many body lifts myself on newer vehicles... I just need the weather to cooperate. lol I am jealose of Alan's shop!!! I so need a shop building!! I dont want the truck too high though, so Im going to do the bl first as Rich suggested before I look into swapping out those front springs. 2-4 inchs might be good after the body lift....

After I get off in the morning, I will have some days off, I cant wait!! Finally be able to figure this 79 out.

Besides new oil and oiling the cylinders, what else should I look for getting this 400 in the truck ready to start? I saw it earlier on the BS thread, but it is lost in the many pages now! lol


I will make my lists and not sure if I will head north this week or not, Alan, let me know if your interested in this week or next tuesday or wednesday morning.
 
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:57 PM
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Any pictures/threads of the 14 bolt locations for taking off the front clip? Just thinking ahead for Bandit, and if I find a good deal up North.
 
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:05 AM
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1. Open each cab door there is one on each side between the upper and lower hinges (that's 2)
2. Underside each front fender on the back side there is one right on the bottom edge of the fender (that makes 4)
3. One on each side of the radiator, way down on the side. These are the ones that give most folks trouble due to their rusted condition. And if you can not get them to wrench loose, is sawzall time. If you are trying to save the body mount, cut between the bottom of the radiator core support and the top of the frame. ( that's 6)

NOT counting the 4 for the hood. 2 on each side that hold the hood to the hinges.

Where the inner fenderwell bolts to the cab firewall there are 3 on each side just aft of where the hinges mount. (that 6 more for a total of 12) Did I say 14...so I can't count. lol

And I do not count the rubber strap going from the dvrs side inner fenderwell that is sometimes still there, its below the power brake booster/master cylinder. I have never seen one on the passenger side inner fenderwell.

0.02 concentrate the $$ on the motor swap and what ever it takes first, then figure out all the rest. The body lift being 1st, in case its needed, then the suspension, body panels ect....
 
  #45  
Old 12-12-2013, 06:24 AM
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Rich, thanks for the info on the clip.

Yeah, Im looking forward to having Alan get a plan of action together, Ill go with his recomendations.
 


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