Had my block heater plugged in today for 3+ hours and still only hit about 75 degrees on my scangauge. That's plenty warm to get it started but still nowhere near operating temp and not much heat. Most of the time I only have time to leave the block heater plugged in for an hour or so.
Is there a 1500w heating element I can install in my 6.0? The factory heater is supposed to be 1000w but I measure only 900. I have seen them for the 7.3 but not the 6.0. Does anybody know what size the threads are?
More heat seems like a bad idea- it does not get serious cold in Oregon and then stay that way for weeks like Montana, the Dakotas and Minnesota. Block heaters are not intended to keep a motor at operating temp and you probably would not want to pay the electric bill if they did. Seems like fixing something that is not broken. In extreme cold the next steps are battery blankets and transmission heaters- but you would never need them in Oregon. -Mike
Like I already said, I know I don't NEED more heat, but there is certainly nothing that makes it a "bad idea". The closer it is to operating temperature the better it is for the engine, and the better it is for me. That's why mission critical diesel generators in places like hospitals, have circulating block heaters that keep the engines at around 180 degrees full time. (So they can just start up and go) Electricity is far, far, far cheaper than diesel and my engine gets twice or better MPG when it is warm. 5-10 miles at operating temp vs 5-10 miles warming up is a BIG difference in fuel.
I am already going to install an oil pan heater since there is nothing the block heater could ever do for all that cold oil in the pan. But the 900w block heater is still extremely weak. Your average water heater holds 40 gallons of water and has a 5500 watt element. My engine has 15 gallons of fluids and 1,000lbs of steel to heat up with just 900 watts. 1500 watts cost about 15 cents per hour, if I can afford the diesel I can afford that.
Your 900w block heater is not warming up all 15 gallons of your coolant. It is warming the coolant in the block. When I start mine the coolant temperature actually drops a bit as it starts to circulate then recovers fairly quickly. -15f were I am at right now and by the time I leave my neighborhood I have decent heat coming from the vents and defroster after being plugged in. Hate to say it but this time of year with the winter fuel in cold climates we all get crappy mileage, it is what it is. But like other have said I don't think you need it either.
2014 F150, 5.0 XTR
2006 F350, 6.0. Sold
Do to convection you do get some heating of the
radiator. The warm fluid moves up and the cold
fluid moves in to take it's place and as it cools
it drops and the cycle goes on.
It's just not driven by a pump. Speaking of you could
make some system for quick disconnect and pump
heated coolant into the engine. The hard part would
be a valve that does not loose fluid in the connect
Theoretically I guess that's true but there is no direct link between the coolant in the block and the radiator once the thermostat closes. The radiator is blocked off by the thermostat and the water pump. But if it's cold enough for you to use a block heater I don't see any benefit from convection heat.
2014 F150, 5.0 XTR
2006 F350, 6.0. Sold
Yes...right now I'm not heating the coolant in the radiator (or the oil in the pan) and that's part of the problem. Big drop in temp as soon as the engine starts. I've considered installing an auxiliary electric water pump to circulate water when the block heater is on. This way I could pre warm the cab without the engine running. (Pumps are cheap) If I can't find a stronger block heater I'll probably install a tank type heater.
And again I usually don't have 3+ hours to leave it plugged in. I want it warm in an hour, hot in two. I don't work on a normal schedule, I don't know when I'm going to leave. I can't use a timer.
Yes, I know I don't NEED it. Nobody in Oregon needs a block heater. I don't need leather seats either. But I have them.
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